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jacobnbr1

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  • jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
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      Quoted From redfury:

      freeze frame data
      P0174
      TPS 0%
      RPM 641
      Cal Load 3.1
      MAF .95
      MAP 10.0 hg
      coolant temp 174
      LTFT1 19.5
      STFT1 0.0
      LTFT2 18.8
      STFT2 -2.3

      Holy cow!

      The long term fuel trims are out of this world and are adding fuel to compensate for something.
      Is the maf measuring grams per second (gs)?
      Is there a map pid in voltage?
      Can you do a screen shot of all the o2 sensors @ idle and 2500 rpm?

      If that MAF pid is gs then it either isn’t working well or there is a huge bypass air leak after the maf.

      in reply to: 2004 Ford Escape #438998
      jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
      Participant

        Here is this for now.

        PLEASE NOTE: Some diagrams may appear to be missing because of gaps in the number sequences. These “gaps” are actually for diagrams that do not apply to the vehicle model selected.

        24-6

        in reply to: 2004 Ford Escape #438999
        jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
        Participant

          We can discuss all day long as to where we might find this voltage drop but usually what I will do is confirm that the voltage drop exists between the two components as in your case here (relay and inertia switch) Make sure the inertia switch or the relay is not causing the drop, if neither isn’t cut the wire, and replace it with a new one.

          It doesn’t have to be routed within the harness that the old one is.
          Heck, I don’t really care how you get it there just use some good heat shrink butt connectors, put the wire in that black loom, wire tie it along the way avoiding things that move and exhaust, and then make a label to go under the hood advising that the wiring has been replaced and rerouted.

          If you are going from the relay center just unsnap the bottom of the relay center and find the output wire color that leads to the correct relay and give yourself a few inches, cut the wire,splice onto it, route it out of the relay center not interfering with anything else and on to the destinations. The reason I say destinations is because if you look at the diagram section of that wire has s138 in the middle and you need that utilized into your new circuit. Along the way to the inertia switch you need to join another wire and run it to the splice.

          Check the relay connectors for corrosion and looseness as some fords had that problem.
          I will post the splice location in the morning when I get to the shop where I can pull it up.

          in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450599
          jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
          Participant

            If you have no power to the ignition coil black and yellow wire then your fix is in this diagram below, That wire at the coil needs to be traced to fuses all the way back to the ignition switch.
            If you need conformation that you are on the right diagnostic track then apply 12v through a fused jumper lead to that yellow/black wire and try to start it and it should run.

            in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450601
            jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
            Participant

              Do you have a test light? They are a cheap tester than can be bought just about anywhere for testing for voltage presence.

              If you dont you need to run to autozone/advance and get one

              i

              in reply to: Someone explain this to me please, #454367
              jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
              Participant

                Yea I get that all the time too, Reminds me of the tune up thing that no longer applies to anybodys car with a ECM/PCM.

                Maybe if it is out far enough I could see a vibration but just your normal small amount I wouldn’t think would cause a vibration.

                I’m not much on alignment stuff other than I have a machine and I can get myself through one.

                in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450604
                jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                Participant

                  That is fine, that will work.

                  I wan’t you to turn the key on in the run position and switch the dvom to 12 volts dc and put the black lead to battery negative and proble the red lead to the black/yellow wire at the distributor at the connector with the connecter still pluged together and tell me if there is voltage and exactly what voltage you have.

                  in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450606
                  jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                  Participant

                    If it has voltage on the yellow/black wire then step 2 is to test the flow of voltage through the igniter white wire and if you have or have not determines the problem.

                    In either case it doesn’t matter you should just put a distributor in it because if the voltage is not there then the igniter is bad, If it is there then the integrated crank sensor inside the distributor is failing to pull the ground down in a square wave for for the pcm to detect the signal to fire the ignition system.

                    As I previously stated it is cheaper to buy the whole distributor vs’s buying the parts separately not to mention the availability of the distriutor is probably on the shelf at the nearest parts store where the individual components most likely will have to be ordered.

                    Another way to determine if a signal is being generated is by looking at the tach(if it has one) and see if it is counting rpm as the engine cranks but that is not always the case as I have seen it either way as there is a dual function system inside the distributor.

                    in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450607
                    jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                    Participant

                      Here is the flow of diagnostics on the ignitor.
                      IGNITER UNIT INPUT TEST
                      Igniter Unit

                      See CODE [15] IGNITION OUTPUT TEST when the self-diagnostic indicator blinks. Perform an input test for the igniter unit after finishing the fundamental tests for the ignition system and fuel emission system. Check for blown No.32 (50 A) fuse in the dash fuse box before testing.

                      1. Remove the distributor cap, the leak cover and the rotor.
                      2. Disconnect the WHT wire, BLK/YEL wire, WHT/BLU wire, and the BLU wire from the igniter unit.
                      3. Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and the body ground with the ignition switch ON.

                      a)If there is no voltage, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the igniter unit and the ignition switch.b)If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.

                      1. Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and the body ground with the ignition switch ON.

                      a)If there is no voltage, check for:-Faulty ignition coil.

                      • An open in the WHT/BLU wire between the igniter unit and the ignition coil.

                      b)If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.

                      1. Check for continuity between the WHT wire and the body ground.

                      a)If there is no continuity, check for:

                      • An open in the WHT wire between the igniter unit and the PGM-FI ECU. -Poor ground at thermostat housing (G101 or G151). Refer to Cooling System / Cooling Fan Motor / Diagrams . See: Engine, Cooling and ExhaustCooling SystemRadiator Cooling Fan MotorDiagramsElectrical

                      b)If there is continuity, go to step 6.

                      1. Check for continuity between the BLU wire and the body ground.

                      a)If there is no continuity, check for:

                      • An open in the BLU wire between the igniter unit and the tachometer or the A/T control unit. -Poor ground at thermostat housing (G151), left front fender well next to washer bottle (G301) or left kick-panel (G401). Refer to Cooling System / Cooling Fan Motor / Diagrams . See: Engine, Cooling and ExhaustCooling SystemRadiator Cooling Fan MotorDiagramsElectrical

                      b)If there is continuity, go to step 7.

                      1. If all continuity and voltage tests are normal, but the engine won’t start, replace the igniter unit.

                      NOTE :The igniter unit may be covered under the manufacturer’s emission warranty. Contact the appropriate agency before replacing.

                      in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450611
                      jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                      Participant

                        Ok. Now grab your dvom and switch it to volts dc with the key still on red lead to that same white wire and the black to the battery ground.

                        How many volts are on the white wire?

                        in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450613
                        jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                        Participant

                          Doesn’t really matter! What I would do is take your new coil out and put it back in the box and go back to the parts store and exchange it for the complete distributor.
                          Make sure you buy the brand new one instead of the rebuilt one. (it will last longer)

                          Install the distributor is pretty basic.
                          The input shaft of the distributor will only go in one way and I think there is (2) 12 mm bolts to remove, try and put it back in the same clock position as the old one for ignition timing. (Note the position of the top bolt of the rectangle adjusting slot)

                          in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450616
                          jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                          Participant

                            If it has voltage..
                            Do one more thing before you go get that distributor.

                            With the distributor cap off, crank the engine and make sure the distributor rotor is turning. If so, high tail it down to the parts store and get a distributor. If not, fix the broken timing belt.

                            jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                            Participant

                              When you unplugged the o2 sensor it should have thrown a code.
                              Are you sure the check engine light bulb is not burnt out?
                              Do you have a scan tool?
                              Did you test the fuel pressure?

                              Most obd1 cars do not have self tests nor any monitors to determine faults in the fuel pump and delivery, No code diagnostics on obd1 is hard but usually a fuel issue.

                              And here is this.
                              MEASUREMENT OF FUEL PRESSURE

                              1. Release fuel pressure.
                              2. Connect connector to fuel tank.

                              1. Disconnect fuel delivery hose from fuel filter, and connect fuel pressure gauge.

                              1. Start the engine.
                              2. Measure fuel pressure while disconnecting pressure regulator vacuum hose from collector chamber.

                              Fuel pressure:
                              235 – 265 kPa (2.4 – 2.7 kg/sq.cm, 34 – 38 psi)

                              1. After connecting pressure regulator vacuum hose, measure fuel pressure.

                              Fuel pressure:
                              177 – 206 kPa (1.8 – 2.1 kg/sq.cm, 26 – 30 psi)

                              WARNING: Before removing fuel pressure gauge, release fuel pressure.

                              NOTE: If out of specification as measured at step 6), check or replace pressure regulator and pressure regulator vacuum hose.

                              in reply to: no start 1990 Honda Civic DX 1.5L #450618
                              jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                              Participant

                                Quoted From str8mennis:

                                so the distributor is bad or the ignitor is bad the whose set is 190 and the ignitor is 50 at autozone and well i don’t have the money us military folk don’t make much so maybe next payday and what do i do about the wires under the dash it is a blue wire with a black stripe on it and a black wire with a silver mark around it

                                There is a catch 20 that I am doing here and the catch is either the igniter, tdc sensor or crank sensor is bad one of the three. The catch is that in order to go forward and isolate which one has failed you need an oscilloscope and perform wave form diagnostics on those.

                                Doesn’t really matter I would replace the whole thing because they are all just as old as the failed component and the complete deal will refresh the whole ignition system and magnetic pick ups.

                                in reply to: You know what makes me mad? #458323
                                jacobnbr1jacobnbr1
                                Participant

                                  He gained employment by my approval being he came from a reputable GM dealer.

                                  When he first started out I never gave him the chance at Diagnostics because his role was to make the repairs that I command based on my diagnostics which means he got lazy about testing and spoiled of only parts changing.

                                  I realize that may sound odd but it keeps my diagnostic skills sharp plus works really well in my shop.

                                  He wasn’t all that surprised as he already knows there isn’t anyone better at fixing a complex problem other than me. He says ‘You remind me of one of them field engineer big wigs that GM sends out to fix the hard problem no one else can’

                                  Anyway, I figured since we was so slow and all that he could follow a simple trouble tree because I know for sure he had to do this at the dealer where he worked and they gave good input about him but due to their being slow they had to let him go.

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