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In particular the integrated immobilizer units suck and can cause voltage drops, failed fuel pump circuits, and miscommunications.
In more common issues is the factory immobilizer or anti theft system problems.
The remote start module has a set of permissive parameters and that feature is one of them. Allowing that module to detect engine rpm will do a couple things and prevent a couple things. One feature off the top of my thoughts would be allowing an attempt to start the vehicle when the vehicle is already running which could save a few hundred bucks should there be damage to the starter or flywheel.
October 18, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: switched to E fan and now am getting lean bank codes for both banks #455205Dude it has an intake gasket leaking vacuum.
Confirm test with propane while watching fuel trims, they should go negative when you find it but from the sound of it it is leaking into the lifter valley area.
The reason the thing runs good is because the computer is designed to correct for issues up to a certain level. (They do an awsome job at hiding problems which is why god made guys like me)
When that threshold has been met then the vehicle will run like crap.Also since that is a express van 5.7 the original intake gaskets are made of plastic and commonly break down and leak vacuum.
I suggest you buy the felpro problem solver metal gaskets instead of the oem gaskets.Here is an idea, Take it down and have the charging system tested!
Maybe just throw an alternator on it if you have a gut feeling or your brothers uncles doctor said it fixed his…
Personally I would put a battery, alternator and both battery terminals in it and ignore all testing and tsb’s then get upset because none of that worked.
October 17, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: switched to E fan and now am getting lean bank codes for both banks #455202Do a record of graphs of these pids from a stop to a first to second gear shift at wide open throttle. 02 b1s1 b1s2 b2s1 b2s2 mass airflow g/s and engine load then upload a youtube video of the playback.
P0300 is random missfire detected and the flashing mil light is because it is catalyst damaging meaning the only thing missing is the lean codes of p0171 and 174 before total meltdown of the cats.
You need to check the fuel trims and find out how far out they are and then check for confirmation with propane around the intake manifold gaskets.What kind of voltage is it saying? There are many issues but most common is overcharge.
This system utilizes a class 2 bus communication and may affect the voltage output depending what kind of problem.
check the plug connector at the alternator and make sure the terminals are tight and that there are no plug wires routed anywhere near the harness of the alternator as the voltage inside the wires WILL confuse the pcm signal.
Sounds like you broke a timing belt
Quoted From ehsteve84:
I dont think its teh timing belt only because I;m getting spark, If i wasn’t getting spark then yes i would agree on the timing belt.
The belt could still be intact but could have jumped time!
Do a compression test or a relative compression test to confirm
I have bought a lot of scanners in my time and have sold 0 of them.
Keep them even if they are out dated because all the new tools are focused on newer stuff and almost never go back.I got a brick mt2500 for obd1 crap with some oems like GMtech1a, Chrysler drb and ford ngs that seldom get touched but when we do get em out we are glad we held on to them.
That said, buy only oem scan tools. The oem stuff may cost a lot but when it comes down to bi-directional testing and repairs the knock offs can’t duplicate it.
Stop sending stuff to the dealers and get on board with the new future as the oem’s are forced to sell us professionals their tools they use so the field is level.
People think the dealer is the higher power that can only do certain things like flash calibrations, mileage corrections, VIN writing,radio unlock codes, Transponder key replacement/originations or All Keys Lost but I’m here to tell you we do it all in our facility with their tools and the local dealers hate my guts for it.
It is not that they are special people with special skills. They are just using the tool that was designed to make the repair and that is their special recipe.
If you are a L8 tech you need to spend the 900.00 and register with ALOA and gain full capabilities through the manufacturers and they will no longer give you crap when you ask for something. (On a side note there is no reason to register at ALOA if you don’t have the oem tools to carry out the functions)I like the autoenginuity pc tester bought on ebay only as a basic quick check and love the special features. Be advised that the kit sold on ebay is basic kit and will need an upgrade for other modules like trans,abs,srs etc..
Customers just want to know you are competent to identify the problem and make the repair for just reasons without coming back and changing the story to sell them more parts because someone was wrong with their diagnosis.
Maybe the customer had an evap check engine light and they paid you to fix but three days later the light is back on. They just want what they originally wanted when they first came in.I see it all the time and I can tell you what helps in these concerns.
Show them the flow testing tree and the series of tests you performed right down to the conclusion of the tree where it actually says ‘If yes replace PCM’
I take pictures, snap shots from DSO’s and video captures of video scopes to show the customer the evidence that I used to conclude.In most cases I rarely ever have a customer refute and if they do they are refuting against the facts. The facts do not lie and will keep you safe always even if they do go to another shop that told the customer over the phone that it is probably something else even though the other shop didn’t physically visually inspect the vehicle.
I get customers leave and go to another shop but later return and tell me what they experienced when they dealt with the other shop and I always ask why they went somewhere else in the first place and the usual answer is normally the wait time. All I can really say to that is that this stuff takes time to find the actual cause and even a broken clock is right twice a day but I would never gamble with their money and just blindly throw parts at their car based upon a hunch or guess.
I think shaun nailed it. I would pull the upper intake and look for antifreeze in the lower intake valleys.
Doesn’t matter if the intake is new if someone didn’t put the egr sleeve in the intake and the exhaust burnt a small hole through the cooling passage.
I don’t know why someone would think because they have a code that replacing the part associated with that code can solve anything.
A code is only a starting point to the process of correcting the problem!
What code does it have? what engine size? what transmission?
There is a tsb.
November 1, 1994YEAR
1991-94MODEL
LEGENDVIN APPLICATION
ALLBULLETIN NO.
94-018Vehicle Speed Sensor FailurePROBLEMDiagnosis (see section 23 of the service manual) shows that the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is malfunctioning.CORRECTIVE ACTIONReplace the VSS with the kit listed under PARTS INFORMATION.NOTE : This kit eliminates the need to replace the complete power steering speed sensor assembly because of a malfunctioning VSS.1.Raise the car on a hoist.2.Disconnect the speed sensor assembly electrical connector from the harness.3.Disconnect the hoses from the speed sensor assembly, and plug the ends.5.Remove the three Torx T2O tamper-proof screws. Remove the speed sensor assembly cover and lid seal.6.Remove the mounting screws, then remove the VSS.7.Install the new VSS from the kit. Install the cover with a new lid seal and Torx screws from the kit. Install the new wire tie.8.Install a new O-ring on the speed sensor assembly. Reinstall the assembly in the car.9.Start the engine and turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock several times to bleed air out of the power steering system. Turn off the engine.10.Check the power steering speed sensor for leaks. Check the reservoir; top it off if necessary.PARTS INFORMATIONVehicle speed sensor kit (VSS, lid seal, 3 Torx screws,nylon wire tie):P/N 06560-PY3-0000-ring, 23.5 by 2 mm:P/N 91313-611-010WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATIONIn warranty:
The normal warranty applies.Out of warranty:
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Technical Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.Operation number: 513141Flat rate time: 0.7 hour
Failed P/N: 56500-PY3-A01
Defect code: 068
Contention code: B01
If it is code 4 then the flow sheet is below.
Transmission Control Systemau91legenc_sm14-053
No way no how and aftermarket converter is going to satisfy a Honda FRED!
Do a volumetric efficiency test to see that the engine is performing optimal and then order a converter from honda.
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