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Hydrogen works but you are not going to get the correct answer here.
You need to seek out a remap of the powertrain control unit before your cars computer will even allow any changes like this to make a positive reaction.
Ignition timing and fuel mixtures are key and those are pre programmed for a certain function and the whole purpose of the pcm is to maintain a 14-7-1fuel ratio. Whatever sensors you try to trick will only cause another reaction that is going to counter whatever you are trying to accomplish.
You can put it on a carburated car because you can make the adjustments manually and will likely see the affects but I wouldn’t bother wasting your time with that crap because I’m certain the mass engineers have already looked at it but can’t get a good stable reliable outcome not to mention the stupid generator will need cleaned and flushed every two weeks or so.
Some day there will be a breakthrough but not right now…
Did you pull the intake off and check the gaskets?
Heck you don’t have to take the intake off to confirm.. Fill the cooling system with fluid and pressure test it then remove the spark plugs one by one till you find antifreeze running out of the plug hole then you have enough evidence to support tear down.The fact that it misfires when adding coolant and white smoke from the tail pipe combined further supports that suggestion.
The fact that the starter went bad was not a coincidence, It is because the antifreeze made it to the cylinder and hydra locked a cylinder and the starter was the weak link that gave out.
The next time it does this it will bend valves, push rods, lifters, maybe even crack a piston rendering the whole engine junk.Print this off and find another mechanic that has the tooling, resources and motivation….
CAUTION: Never turn on the combination light switch before fitting the HID bulbs to their bulb sockets and completing the reassembly of the headlight assembly.- Check the No.45 (20 A) or No.46 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
Are the fuses OK ?
YES – Go to step 2.NO – Replace the fuse(s) and recheck.- Substitute a known-good HID bulb and recheck.
Does the headlight low beam come on ?
YES – Replace the HID bulb.NO – Go to step 3.- Disconnect the 2P connector from the inverter unit.
- Turn the combination light switch ON .
- Measure voltage between the No.2 terminal of the inverter unit 2P connector and body ground.
Is there battery voltage ?
YES – Go to step 6.NO – Repair open in the wire between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the inverter unit.- Turn the combination light switch OFF .
- Check for continuity between the No. 1 terminal of the inverter unit 2P connector and body ground.
Is there continuity ?
YES – Go to step 8.NO – Repair open in the wire between the inverter unit and body ground. If the wire is OK, check for poor ground at G201 or G301.- Measure resistance between the No. 1 and B terminal and the No.2 and A terminal of the igniter unit.
Is there about 7 – 2 ohms ?
YES – Substitute a known-good inverter, and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away replace the original inverter unit.NO – Replace the igniter unit.Take it to someone who knows how to use a Verus to start with…
$40.00 wont cover the hour it will take to use that tool correctly to find the misfire.
A visual inspection won’t reveal anything unless it is so obvious it’s stupid.A guy needs to plot all 8 ignition coils for signature ramp, all 8 injectors for signature ramp and a relative compression test without ever going into the enhanced vehicle data and without ever turning a screw or bolt.
That would take about 20 minutes to do and would leave a balance of 40 minutes if the problem goes deeper or for pinpoint accurate confirmed conclusions.Quoted From bergesonm:
As an update, I can say for sure that ALL the water is out of the gas tank, fuel lines, and fuel filter. I can say now the the water I HAD in the gas can no longer effect it’s performance.
Unfortunately i am still not able to get the car to run right, the problem with the MAF sensor is still there. I can get the car to idle alright with the MAF sensor unplugged, but as soon as I plug in the sensor the car dies. I priced out a brand MAF sensor at $250, but I would like to know if the one that I have is good or not before I spend the money. Is there some way of testing the sensors I have before I go out and buy a new one?
Do you have a 2 or 4 channel DSO? if so then yes. It is most likely that the MAF is out of calibration but can be a smaller issue like wiring. Have you run any testing on the MAF like voltage source and grounds as a basic start?
I would like to know what EXACT CODE the MAF has set?
1. Check the voltage on the White wire; Key On Engine Off (KOEO) spec is 0.3v, at idle 0.8v to 1.2v.2. If good, monitor the voltage on the Yellow/Blue wire (12v), to see if it is dropping out. The Brown wire is the ground for the MAF sensor.
Without a DSO this is the best I can help
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
Yeah i want a Verus too.
I might actually look into a used Vantage though.The vantage is a piece of garbage unless you do not have a lab-scope at all. The processor is weak and is super slow. The save files are crap and hard to upload, send etc..
That said a verus works well but still only has a 600MHz processor which makes me mad because for the price of the verus we should at least get a 1.5ghz which is pretty standard on any tablet pc.
You may also take note that the verus,vantage and modis DO NOT come with the additional adapters to utilize the scope features and will have to be purchased separately with a price of no less than 2500 but could go as high as 7500 depending if you need the SIA adapter.Anyways whatever his name was that started this thread will never have the tool to Carry out the function that may be needed because all problems are never included in one single scan tool as the third party tool makers are limited to what the OEM’s have released.
Usually to get all the functions you have to have an unlocked version of the factory scan tool.
The only thing he can actually do is decide what he will settle for and that depends on if he has a DSO or not.
I would say the genisys and pegisys is a pretty universal bi-directional scan tool made by spx that co-writes alot of the scan software utilized in many factory scan tools but I wouldn’t expect it to reinitialize a PATS system, add a key to a Honda or add a key fob to a Chrysler. (by the way the pagisys has an integrated two channel dso)
Those functions are only a few off the top of my head because those are the most common but you might also think on a quick assumption that you wont need that function anyways and I’m here to tell you that you are wrong.If you stick to the OEM units you will get a full functional 100% do all that is available tool but there needs to be a little warning given as there are clone units out there on ebay, amazon etc.. and a guy can get one cheap but to later realize it is a clone when it wont perform or has a problem is expensive.
There are clone Honda GNA and HIM units that are cheap but worthless not to mention Honda doesn’t even support them anymore nor can they j2534-1 or-2 although the add say it does.
There is also the MTS3100 Mastertechs out there that Bosch/Vetronix pushes as the OEM tool that services Honda PGM and Toyota TDS and for the most part they are the same except the ones marked Honda and Toyota are embedded with a silicon chip that enables other features that only the dealer has the power to enable or program things that are going to be a common request in the near future.I have a Verus and I’m totally ok with it and it’s functions but I understand the limits of the unit. Should I need to enable 3 cylinder idle on a cummins engine I know only the drb3 will do it and I don’t expect the Verus to do it.
I have 20 years or so in independent car care and have bought alot of scanners and sold none.
So far I have a Ford ngs, Ford vcm/ids,Genisys,Mastertech-mvci,Verus,Mt2500(brick),Gmtech2,
Gmtech1a ,Chrysler-drb3,Honda pgm, Honda him,Honda mvci, Toyota-tds, Toyota-tech-stream, Silica-sbb, Mitsubishi-mut and an Autoenginuity.
Each one of them has a handful of certain features that not another unit can clone for an exception of the brick but has it’s certain functions that I like for obd1 vehicles.
The Mastertech-mvci has an integrated j2534-1 and -2 feature that is bar none the best unit I have ever used for programming without the third party restrictions so I can do the IPC’s, Theft systems and security modules without sending them out.Quoted From Lonestartech:
Just want to update this post. Man, talk about the tail chasing the dog. After repairing the wiring, getting the #5 cyl misfire fixed, we’d drive it 30 or so miles and STILL get the code P0022. so the only thing left to do was recheck everything. To make a long story short we found bank two VCT solenoid bad. The NEW solenoid we had replaced in the beginning of our process. Just goes back to the old saying, “Everything that glitters isn’t gold.” Lol or translated new doesn’t mean good, take nothing for granted. Special thanks to Jacob your steps helped with troubleshooting this one and thanks to all who replied. We’ve drove it about 100 miles since replacing the solenoid so I believe it’s a done deal. Take care guys.
It doesn’t matter if the part is new, a certain brand or dealer part; they can be bad right out of the box. I’ve seen it more times than many but it is hard to tell the dealer boys their OEM part is bad and them buy that excuse. Their ego’s and god like mentality wont allow it and they tend to lash back an excuse of you didn’t know what you were doing because your just an independent.
Glad you got it fixed!
Quoted From dreamer2355:
I would just make a quick call to a delaership and see if the OEM part numbers cross reference to be the same part of even try to ‘Google’ it for more info.
The dealer will not tell you anything on the cross over fitability of parts.
One example that sticks in my mind was a lexus es400 powersteering line that was 400.00 from lexus dealer.
I used a camry line that was exactly the same for 149.00 from the toyota dealer.
I called both dealers with the same question and neither would answer the question but since I had parts explosion guides on both I could clearly see the parts were the same.Quoted From 2StrongMNG:
i called 4 auto zones.. they all said they dont carry them
I don’t consider Autozone a REAL parts store.
Mode 6 is your only hope unless you have a Ford vmm/ids or snapon verus with cylinder contribution testing that was just recently released by ford to the aftermarket I think in 2010.
You just need a generic global scanner to access mode 6 but if anyone has cleared data or KAM then the missfire monitor will not be active until $TID 56 flags a misfire and then utilizing $TID 53 $CIDs 1 – 8 for identification.
Welcome to my world!
If you can graph the o2 data you can find the bank that has the problem but you still have to narrow the cylinder. If you have a laser thermometer you can find the cylinder with that as it should be the exhaust port that has the lowest temp when the mis is happening.
If you have a DSO handy you can look at the kv, coil ramp and burn time and make a diagnostic decision with that.
If you think it is an injector you can do a ramp test and check for pintle activity in the wave form.
You can use the power wire on the coils as they share power and trigger off #1 to see all of them in one picture (works better than mode 6)