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You need to do some checking to see if it is getting fuel and spark, then focus in the direction of which one is absent.
These carburated models don’t take much to run so it should be simple to diagnose.
I’m not going to load a pic because this web sight sucks for loading images and pics but check fuse f/inj in the power distribution block and confirm it is not blown.
If you have a DSO you can place your low amps probe there and look at all six of them at the same time to find out if there is a problem in the ramp/saturation, You can trigger of number one secondary ignition to reference the aid and discovery of the problem.
As a work around the Pink wire at each injector plug should have voltage with the key in the on position.
You can do a manual scratch test to this system by using a test light to ground and t-pinning the the negative side of the injector and momentarily touch the tip of the test light to the t-pin should activate the injector but this is not testing the PCM driver but only the injector.
That is about as basic as I can make it for the DIY guy and doesn’t touch any on circuit integrity which I might add is every ones worst nightmare and becoming the most common problem found in todays modern shops.
Hook a good scan tool to it and ping the IPC module and see if it is on line or not. If it is off line then either it is missing a power source, ground or communications.
If it is on line then do a sweep test and see if all the needles move etc…
The ECM is in control for the driver for the injector pulse but has other components and wiring.
Depends on the engine size before I can tell you how it works or help you with a flow of diagnostics sheet.
Watch telltale of vehicle theft system and confirm that the light comes on and goes out after 5 seconds when the key is turned on..
Those injectors that GM put in those engines are crap and commonly fail.
One injector can cause a no start as the injector driver is only capable of a certain amount of voltage output and when ever that voltage is exceeded the driver either gets fried or it kills voltage to all.It will be hard for a DIY to isolate that problem without some complex equipment like a DSO but you can start by ohm testing each injector if you have a DVOM.
If you find the one out of range you can simply disconnect it and see if the car will run then thus verifying the PCM injector driver is good but overextended.
The ohms test normal resistance is 11.8 – 12.6 ohms at normal room temperature, the resistance will rise with temperature.
If you look at a wiring diagram it will show two injector driver wires and they appear separate but the PCM is engineered where the bridge takes place inside the circuit board and come out in two wires. 1 is for bank one and 2 is for bank two.
If one injector shorts out they all normally quit.Do a block test to rule out possible head gasket failure.
Perform a visual inspection of the timing belt area but in more specific the water pump area and how tight the timing belt is at the pump.
3.2 and 3.5 engines I have seen the belt be a little loose causing a slippage of the water pump pulley causing an overheat condition but only at elevated engine speeds.
Confirmation would be to actually grab the water pump pulley and try to turn it with timing belt tension still applied. This can be accomplished without full disassembly of the timing belt covers and if it turns that is enough to warrant a repair because the pump cannot flow if the pulley slips, if not then you have gone the wrong direction but you might consider this being a perfect opportunity for checking the belt for cracks and oil seals leaking which would of course problems as well.I would hook up a bi-directional scan tool and command the fans on to confirm they work but also testing the circuit integrity and pcm drivers, relay etc…
A pressure test would only be for the discovery of a coolant loss and would be an idiotic waste of time if there is no evidence that supports an actual coolant leak exists not to mention a complete waste of money for a test that is priced twice of what the actual face value of the test should cost.
You can do a crankshaft sensor bypass test to confirm the crank sensor is not producing an A/C sinewave signature signal to the module.
That test will confirm many things including circuit integrity, internal pcm drivers including fuel pump driver, ignition coil driver but clearly show if you have a no fire condition that the parts associated with ignition are good for an exception of crank sensor.
Nonetheless if the crank is rubbing the sensor it needs corrected even if the part is good because it should not rub.
To perform that test you need a conventional test light hooked to bat+ and a t-pin back probed at the + crank signal wire and you momentarly touch the tip of the test light to the t-pin and should produce a high/low signal good enough to fool the driver to produce the needed test.
Understand? I didn’t think so 🙂
I think you guys are taking my statement way out of context.
By all means I understand that I am under no obligation to do anything here and I know I can just walk away to never return but I too am just attempting to pay it forward.
The reason I said it is not healthy is because MOST professional mechanics for hire do not suggest anything at all without knowing the facts and that can never happen here through the translation of information that may or may not be correct due to procedure, tooling and common knowledge.
It is important that a guy build a strong relation with confidence, determination and due diligence to overcome the frustrations and build passion for the road ahead.
Most of the strong aspects can be crushed by a only a few elements, those elements are here and serve as a grave injustice for one to subject himself to it at such an early stage of their career.I don’t expect many of you to understand but likely I may find a few that will agree.
Interference/non-interference1.5L DieselInterference1.5L GasolineInterference1.6L DieselInterference1.6L GasolineInterference1.7LFree-Wheeling1.8LInterference1.9L DieselInterference2.0L Gasoline TurboInterference2.0L TDI DieselInterference2.1L & 2.2LFree-Wheeling2.5LInterference2.8LInterference4.0L V6Interference4.0L W8Interference4.2LInterference
If the timing was out then it has damage!I would think about taking it in to the dealer because it sound like you are in over your head and you could possibly destroy the engine if you haven’t already.
Quoted From EndSupremacy:
I actually have the whole procedure printed out from AllData. They say to leave it in there and press the piston down with the tensioner. They obviously haven’t tried to do it themselves, otherwise they would have realized you need to take it out. Also, there is a guard that they do tell you to take out. However, when I try to take it out, there is one bolt that I can’t take out because it wedges itself onto something else. So…what I’m going to do is sand or grind down the housing that’s in the way, just enough so I can take the bolt out and then the rest is all mine. Thanks everyone for your input. I appreciate it. Stay dirty everyone!
If we had year,make,model and engine size would really help others help you with some first hand knowledge and not some guess of what style tensioner you have!
3-Pc. Locking Pin Set
AST tool# T 40011
3 Piece locking pin set used to lock the timing belt tensioner while relieving pressure from the belt. Applicable: VW/Audi 3.0L V6(5V), some 1.8L 4 Cyl 5V turbo and 4.2L V8 5V with timing belt.
[ul]
- Used to Lock the Timing Belt Tensioner While Relieving Pressure from the Belt
[li]The toothed belt tensioner is oil-dampened. Therefore it can only be compressed slowly.
Hydrogen works but you are not going to get the correct answer here.
You need to seek out a remap of the powertrain control unit before your cars computer will even allow any changes like this to make a positive reaction.
Ignition timing and fuel mixtures are key and those are pre programmed for a certain function and the whole purpose of the pcm is to maintain a 14-7-1fuel ratio. Whatever sensors you try to trick will only cause another reaction that is going to counter whatever you are trying to accomplish.
You can put it on a carburated car because you can make the adjustments manually and will likely see the affects but I wouldn’t bother wasting your time with that crap because I’m certain the mass engineers have already looked at it but can’t get a good stable reliable outcome not to mention the stupid generator will need cleaned and flushed every two weeks or so.
Some day there will be a breakthrough but not right now…
Yep sure have, They almost all need an overhaul.
Honda extended the warranty to 100k for this issue but likely your warranty is up.
Quoted From Shaun_300:
I enjoy and have learned lots from your posts too bud, think we have a good crew of techs on this forum with lots of skill and knowledge to offer to everyone else, it’s great!
I don’t think it is all that healthy for professional mechanics to contribute on boiler boards Shaun.
I mean we spend money and hours gaining knowledge, experience, and Certifications to come to a place like this and give advice on how to’s? Think about it.
I realize that we just generally want to help and pay it forward but sometimes I just can’t tolerate some of the postings here and other places.