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The dealer usually doesn’t charge if you buy the fob from them.
Not sure if you are going to find anyone to disclose a “How To” on this topic as it is a trick of the trade. I wouldn’t short any pins at the ALDL unless you know for sure it will not destroy modules or cause other problems.
There is a stand alone procedure without the scan tool but I usually use the Tech2 or MDI to program new fobs.
Me thinks the opds unit is off line or the unit is bad. That is only a guess being that the side impact sensors are apart of that system which later links upto the srs module.
I read that there is an extended warranty on this unit but it is expired by 50k miles and the dealer wants to replace all the sensors and both opds and srs units. Sounds like they are guessing to me because I asked for the factual timeline of testing that supports that conclusion and they got real crappy about disclosure of their secrets.
I also need to add that I do not have a 07SAZ-TB4011A inflator simulator to perform the testing on the sensors but I do have a Honda HIM.
Flatbed or dollies but no wheels on the ground at all.
Usually scrap yards and disposal companies will tow them regardless of damage just because the car is going to be auctioned or dismantled.
Those things are common failures of the blend door breaking and the click noise is the actuator turning inside the broken part. ford will want you to buy an HVAC box to get just the door but a place on ebay sells a door kit for twenty bucks or so.
P0 300 is random engine misfire that could actually be a Crankshaft Variation Relearn only due to normal wear and tear on the timing chain.
Since you will be doing a relearn anyway, I would replace the ckp sensor if the vehicle has 100k or so.
And since we are on the topic of magnetic pick up devices with mini transistors, you may consider the cam sensor as well which in many cases chrysler uses the same sensor for both which would yield reliability and consistent starts for the future ahead.I would perform a good visual on the ignition components to see if there is a misfire problem.
First off the ltft and stft were requesting + 12% more fuel above the norm of + or – 5% indicating a lean condition.
Secondly, I am not sure if you should pay any attention to those figures while the vehicle is in “Limp” mode for a crank sensor code.
Third, The crank sensor should not be ignored and should become priority 1 before you do anything. I would purchase the one from the dealer for quality alone.
Lastly, Without a labscope you can only “guess” that the crank sensor itself is bad because in order to rule out the tone ring, pcm control and circuit integrity you would have to view the signals with the scope in managed real time images and then make a diagnostic decision based on those readings.
I just did an 03 ford f-250 with a 5.4 and didn’t have to lift the body off.. Actually, besides the rusted exhaust manifold bolts it was really nothing. Saturn vue all wheel drive much harder than ford 5.4.
You can bench test any ECU but You normally need to be specific on the testing though.
An ECU performs so many functions and there are many internal drivers that can fail but the unit will still power on. To perform that many series of tests would take many hours, special knowledge and many special tools.
As far as a general health check on the ECU? Most scan tools will do an all dtcs detection which would aid in the discovery of a failed sector but the ECU must be hooked up to the vehicle.
If there was a Pats fault the security light would stay on indicating a problem.
Since you say it bulb checks and goes out tells me the PATS system is fine.I would recheck your work and connections including the range sensor.
Perform a circuit bypass test to see if the starter will crank.
You can search around an independent shop that has Toyota Techstream that may be able to just perform an all ‘all keys lost’ function and rewrite the two keys providing you have two keys and the shop is a vehicle security professional shop.
Other than taking it to a dealer you can take it to an automotive locksmith that should be qualified to perform that same function the dealer does.Means the transponder ecu is in auto registration mode and may be time limited.
You can fix this if you have a toyota scan tool and if not you need to take it to the dealer before you need it towed in.Everything needed to invade privacy exists right now within obd2. The only reason for changing that connector is to streamline revenue for new tools.
Not sure why the car needs a special VIM to hook up to when software alone is all that is needed and an obd2 connector.
A wireless device module could be integrated real easy and for the most part already exist through Onstar but are not a global standard but will soon be.
Link Onstar with the smart body control module (AKA The Gateway) and you have any information you want right down to how many people are in the vehicle.
It is more common problem than you think…
I usually put a DSO scope on the CCD and start disconnecting nodes until I get the bus circuit to come up.
Usually a short in one of the modules or shorted wire.This is a STAR design network so there is (+) and (-) bus wires that is controlling the communication within all nodes.
Not sure what problem you are having but a GOOD scan tool can tell you a lot by doing an all modules status and seeing what nodes are online and which ones are not. The scan tool uses SCI to interface with CCD so you should get some communication unless there is a dead short and the complete network is offline.Without a DSO you can do the following:
1. Check for 2.5 volts at the DLC on pins 3 and 11, key on.
2. If voltage is 2.7 volts or higher, or below 2.5 volts, disconnect the modules that are on the Chrysler Collision Detection (CCD) bus circuit.
3. Depending on options, the vehicle may have more or less modules on the bus. These controllers will need to be unplugged to make sure they are not affecting the BUS voltage.
4. Also check under the battery and tray for acid damage to the bus wires.
They can suspend your right to possession any time they see that you have breached the contract that you voluntarily commit to.
You gave up your absolute power when you exchanged the ‘bill of sale’ for a certificate title which gave joiner and bondage to whatever the motor vehicle act reads now and future no matter you agree or not.
So if you bought the motor vehicle used and all you have is a title then it is up to the new assignment (you) to dissolve that bond if you so wish.
I don’t know how many times I have to explain this to people when you have a title and the top of the title reads ‘The State of Ohio’ It is evidence of a trust relationship and that is right… You guessed it! You are the trustee and the state is the truster.
Understand now why everything can and has to go to probate now when someone dies?Don’t spend too much time in depression over this as it has been this way forever and you can’t really do anything about it except educate yourself how to battle and win against the beast and the only way to win against the state is to never pick a fight with them in the first place.
