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Door lock actuators are pattern here. See repair track 6113
If the power door locks repeatedly keep trying to lock the doors, test the lock input to the door lock control unit from the driver’s door lock actuator. The door lock control unit sends out a reference voltage on a Blue/White wire to the door lock actuator. The door lock actuator takes this Blue/White wire to ground when the door locks are locked to signal the door lock control unit that the door has locked. If the contacts in the door lock actuator do not properly ground the reference voltage, the door lock control unit will keep trying to lock the doors until the voltage completely goes to ground. To test, remove the driver’s door panel and locate the Blue/White wire on the power door lock actuator. With the positive lead of a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM), back probe the Blue/White wire on the power door lock actuator. Place the negative lead of the DVOM on a known good ground. Observe the voltmeter and verify that the voltage drops near 0 volts when the door locks are locked. If the voltage is not near 0 volts or is erratic, try grounding the Blue/White wire. Verify the door lock control unit stops trying to lock the doors. If grounding the Blue/White wire corrects the problem, verify the Black ground wire at the actuator is good. Replace the drivers power door lock actuator as necessary.
If the Immobilizer is activated the green key light will be flashing or on steady. If I recall the fuel pump and or injector pulse is disabled when the Immobilizer is activated.
Resident vehicle security professional and locksmith
If the Immobilizer is activated the green key light will be flashing or on steady. If I recall the fuel pump and or injector pulse is disabled when the Immobilizer is activated.
Resident vehicle security professional and locksmith
Most gm vehicles can be done that way but the Astra can’t. This vehicle requires special tooling or factory tooling. This vehicle also requires all keys to be present and the 4 digit security code to allow access to make changes.
No work arounds and no bypass either.
The programming is carried out in one process that writes the Immobilizer pass phrase and the keyless entry functions.Call a locksmith that has special tooling instead of the dealer for a better rate.
Most gm vehicles can be done that way but the Astra can’t. This vehicle requires special tooling or factory tooling. This vehicle also requires all keys to be present and the 4 digit security code to allow access to make changes.
No work arounds and no bypass either.
The programming is carried out in one process that writes the Immobilizer pass phrase and the keyless entry functions.Call a locksmith that has special tooling instead of the dealer for a better rate.
1st off pass key 2 is a piece of crap… Even when the systems were new gm had a lot of problems that usually resulted in new ignition,BCM, and wiring because they had no clue why their systems were finicky.
That said cutting the white wire (which should be there) will only work if a few parameters are met. Get the car to start 1st and then cut it.
This sets up a pass/fail code that allows the system to be ignored. The only problem with that is if the code ever gets cleared or the battery gets changed the system will reset and self test on next key cycle which will result a fail causing bigger problem than what you had before because now the wire is cut.
That white wire is being monitored by the BCM for 5 volts in the run position and below 5 volts in the crank position but remaining consistent every time.
There is a campaign 14063 that applies to that vehicle which could result in a free repair. If 14063 applies then gm will also do 14113 and 14133 for a key and cylinder.
I would give you a word of caution on doing bypass on vtd systems period.
Don’t do it!
From your friendly resident bonded vehicle security professional.1st off pass key 2 is a piece of crap… Even when the systems were new gm had a lot of problems that usually resulted in new ignition,BCM, and wiring because they had no clue why their systems were finicky.
That said cutting the white wire (which should be there) will only work if a few parameters are met. Get the car to start 1st and then cut it.
This sets up a pass/fail code that allows the system to be ignored. The only problem with that is if the code ever gets cleared or the battery gets changed the system will reset and self test on next key cycle which will result a fail causing bigger problem than what you had before because now the wire is cut.
That white wire is being monitored by the BCM for 5 volts in the run position and below 5 volts in the crank position but remaining consistent every time.
There is a campaign 14063 that applies to that vehicle which could result in a free repair. If 14063 applies then gm will also do 14113 and 14133 for a key and cylinder.
I would give you a word of caution on doing bypass on vtd systems period.
Don’t do it!
From your friendly resident bonded vehicle security professional.I don’t know if I would take it somewhere else… Pay a visit to the shop and allow them to show you the belt is broken. (Call them 1st so they can have the upper cover off) when the vehicle originally quit if it sounded as if it was cranking faster then normal it likely is a broken belt.
Watching videos on a crank no start problem may be helpful to some but it takes a certain mindset or skill set to effectively diagnose that problem.
If we was to try and diagnose an ecotech 2.4 Chevy engine with the same relative problem you are throwing good money after bad to tear down and reveal the exact failure.
Each car is different and has different failures.
Sounds to me that the car is in the right spot to get repaired!I don’t know if I would take it somewhere else… Pay a visit to the shop and allow them to show you the belt is broken. (Call them 1st so they can have the upper cover off) when the vehicle originally quit if it sounded as if it was cranking faster then normal it likely is a broken belt.
Watching videos on a crank no start problem may be helpful to some but it takes a certain mindset or skill set to effectively diagnose that problem.
If we was to try and diagnose an ecotech 2.4 Chevy engine with the same relative problem you are throwing good money after bad to tear down and reveal the exact failure.
Each car is different and has different failures.
Sounds to me that the car is in the right spot to get repaired!Oh this even gets better… those ids/vcm systems are Chinese clones that look and feel the same but are not authentic. In one of my recent case files I found a Guy with one that attempted to do bi directional testing and fried a transistor in the pcm. Another clone too erased all programing without an option to program.
Oh this even gets better… those ids/vcm systems are Chinese clones that look and feel the same but are not authentic. In one of my recent case files I found a Guy with one that attempted to do bi directional testing and fried a transistor in the pcm. Another clone too erased all programing without an option to program.
Reflash? Sure I can help.. First off to correct a comment from another user you cannot adjust program files that would reflect an illegal program as Mazda will not allow those changes. You need a windows vista laptop, flasher pro or equivalent, valid subscription to Mazda service information and if the vehicle has a transponder key you will need a PIN number from Mazda to allow registration of those keys and then the tool to interface with the theft module to input the PIN and register the keys with theft.
All in all you will spend about $6000.00 for a service the dealer will charge $150.00 tops.
How bad does the $150.00 sound now?
Reflash? Sure I can help.. First off to correct a comment from another user you cannot adjust program files that would reflect an illegal program as Mazda will not allow those changes. You need a windows vista laptop, flasher pro or equivalent, valid subscription to Mazda service information and if the vehicle has a transponder key you will need a PIN number from Mazda to allow registration of those keys and then the tool to interface with the theft module to input the PIN and register the keys with theft.
All in all you will spend about $6000.00 for a service the dealer will charge $150.00 tops.
How bad does the $150.00 sound now?
Xterra rare to have a Transponder key, even above 2005 it is rare. You don’t have to buy a cylinder unless your cylinder has been ‘screw driver’d’. If the key still turns, then the cylinder can be rebuilt with new tumblers and springs to match the existing code to fit the doors. Likely the key has worn down causing the issue, then caused the key to be jiggled to get it to turn causing more damage to the tumblers. Call a locksmith in your area and tell them you likely need a new key by code and a cylinder repin. The dealer will sell a kit that will need pinning to the key and I do not recommend pinning to a worn down key. I get 145.00 for those that are repairable, and close to 450.00 for the ones that will no longer turn because the sidebar has to be drilled out.
If the light glows steady, there is an error reading the key, pats module problem or the pats antenna cannot relay the transponder code to the module. Make sure you are using the correct transponder key. The system can be bypassed ONLY through j2534 reflash where one would untick the passive theft system before the module is programmed. There is no ‘re learn’ procedure that will correct this issue if there isn’t a good functional key. You do not have to call a dealer for this as many locksmiths have the stand alone device that will interface with the theft system to write new keys at a fraction of the dealers. There are some shops out there that have the technology to make these repairs but you will spend much time on the phone finding one. When you find that shop you need to keep them as they are the new future of carcare.