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How are you determining the fuel pump is not pumping? I would take a injection rail test with a gauge and see what pressure you have. If you don’t have pressure but the pump is running then the pump is defective or the pump output hose/line linking to the sending unit inside the tank is pumping the fuel right back into the tank.
If you have pressure but the engine won’t start then you have an injector pulse issue. You can actually have pressure at the rail but still no delivery because the injectors serve that function based on a magnetic pick up signal.The way you explained it is dead on a crank sensor and if it was it should have spit a code 26 a 48 reference pulse failure.
Ignition module, fuel pump and possibly one of my older case files warm enough to melt the sugar in the injectors to clog the nozzles…
These things are crazy stupid about the passages getting clogged up even though you may have changed the oil several times I still think there is a blockage somewhere.
Confused why it started with one bank and spread to the other? Need to know if it runs rough at idle? You can also do an engine oil flush service but usually if a blockage has happen it will manually have to be cleaned with an orifice brush.Change the oil religiously every 2800 miles and use a good 5 w 20 oil
Is the p0011 gone? If so then it is likely that you repaired that bank and now the other side phaser got damaged when being installed (trigger or return spring broke or bent) or the bolt that holds the phaser has the holes clogged?
There are several chambers inside the cam and when the VCT solenoid opens one direction or the other the flow of oil in those chambers either advance or retard the camshaft timing based on the duty cycle the pcm has requested. (in a nutshell)
Note: Ford uses camshaft 2 as the primary cam/crank sync for the pcm to make adjustments upon. If you have a labscope you can overlap them to make a diagnostic decision about chain timing.1. To start diagnosis, run engine at hot idle, when the engine is running poorly backprobe a ground wire into the variable camshaft solenoids (located at the top of each valve cover) at the following wires, one at a time. Only tap the ground to the wire briefly.
a. Passenger side, Violet and Light Blue wire.
b. Driver’s side, Dark Green and Orange wire.
2. If tapping a ground to either solenoid resolves the concern, the solenoid was stuck open. Either because of debris stuck in the solenoid, or because the solenoid itself was stuck.
3. If the concern is still present, unplug both solenoid connectors, if the engine now runs smoothly, suspect circuit faults between the solenoids and the PCM. Note, these solenoids should only be actuated off idle similar to a EGR valve.
4. If the concern is still present with the solenoids unplugged, install a lab scope with at least two channels on the cam shaft position sensors (located on the timing cover, one on each side). Install the positive leads at the following wires, install the negative lead to ground.
a. Driver’s side, Dark Green wire.
b. Passenger side, Orange wire.
5. Now start the engine, the wave forms should be in exact sync with each other, if one wave form is even slightly out of sync with the other, either the chain has jumped, the sensor is faulty, or there is a concern with the phaser assembly. A code P0012 suggests a problem on the driver’s side bank, P0022 suggests the problem is on the passenger side bank.
6. To rule out a sensor problem, simply swap the sensors bank to bank, if the concern follows the sensor, replace the affected sensor.
7. If the sensor is OK, you will now have to begin determining if this is a phaser concern or a timing chain problem.
8. A phaser that is over-retarded at idle can either be hydraulic, or mechanical failure. First, swap the solenoids bank to bank, if the concern follows the solenoid, then replace the affected solenoid.
9. If the fault is still present on the same bank, then the timing cover should be removed at this point for removal and inspection of the variable cam timing components.
10. First remove the phaser and inspect for broken trigger, bent trigger, damaged return spring. Replace as necessary. While phaser is removed, inspect the phaser bolt orifice for blockage, clean and replace as necessary.
11. Next remove the solenoid valve body, inspect all orifices for blockage, clean and replace as necessary.
12. If all orifices are OK, reassemble, verify proper chain timing. Restart the engine, if the concern is still present, suspect plugged orifices as discussed in step 2.
I don’t see any thing wrong with the pressure specs, If the engine oil was dirty and thick, replacement of the variable camshaft timing parts may not correct the concern. Oil passage restriction is one of the top causes of incorrect variable camshaft timing operation.
Did you find the problem?
September 18, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: Anybody here know of an information resource for Hybrid Lexus? #443734Yes, please do not touch the orange wires at all, most hybrids have a master switch but Toyotas / Lexus (same thing) didn’t utilize this option at all which makes it harder for us emergency responders.
The rx400h is the same except the 12 volt battery is located in the engine bay passenger side and the relay to remove is igct#4 of the fuse box/relay center driver side engine bay area.
- PRECAUTIONS FOR HIGH-VOLTAGE CIRCUIT INSPECTION AND SERVICE NOTE: The RX400h hybrid system contains a 288V high-voltage system with a strong alkali solution of potassium hydroxide. Be sure to follow the instructions to handle the system correctly. Failure to do so may result in serious injury or electrocution.
(a)Engineer must undergo special training to be able to perform high-voltage system inspection and servicing.(b)All high-voltage wire harness connectors are colored orange. The HV battery and other high-voltage components have “High Voltage” caution labels. Do not carelessly touch these wires and components.
(c)Before inspecting or servicing the high-voltage system, be sure to follow safety measures, such as wearing insulated gloves and removing the service plug to prevent electrocution. Carry the removed service plug in your pocket to prevent other technicians from reinstalling it while your are servicing the vehicle.NOTE: Do not put the vehicle into the READY-on state after removing the service plug grip as the ECU may be damaged.(d)After removing the service plug, wait 5 minutes before touching any of the high-voltage connectors and terminals.HINT: 5 minutes are required to discharge the high-voltage condenser inside the inverter.
And then this.- Immobilize Vehicle Chock wheels and set the parking brake.
Move the shift lever to the P (Park) position.
- Disable Vehicle Performing either of the following two procedures will shut the vehicle off and disable the HV battery pack, SRS, and gasoline fuel pump.
Procedure #1
Turn the ignition key off.- Remove the key and place on dash.
- If the key cannot be removed, disconnect the 12-Volt auxiliary battery in the engine compartment.
Procedure #2 (Alternate if ignition key is inaccessible).
- Disconnect the 12-Volt auxiliary battery in the engine compartment.
- Remove engine compartment covers.
- Remove the fuse box cover.
- Remove the IGCT No. 4 fuse (10A Red colored) in the engine compartment junction block. When in doubt, pull all four fuses in the fuse block.
WARNING:High voltage electricity can cause death or serious injury from severe burns or electric shock. To avoid death or serious injury wait 5 minutes after disabling the vehicle to discharge high voltage electricity, and do not touch, cut, or open any orange high voltage power cable or high voltage component.The SRS airbags can cause death or serious injury by sudden deployment. To avoid death or serious injury wait 90 seconds after disabling the vehicle to allow the SRS backup power to discharge.
If neither of the disabling procedures can be performed, proceed with caution as there is no assurance that the high voltage electrical system, SRS, or fuel pump are disabled.
It is highly unlikely that the carbon has built up in that short period of time. In my experience the effects of an induction clean is only felt when the vehicle has never had a cleaning and the mileage is above 100k. Put a can of bg44k in with a full tank of fuel.
I may have seen this before.A used engine was installed by the customer and now it sets a code 14 and will not rev up it goes into fuel cut.
First, verify the correct connector is connected to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. The wire colors should be Black/Yellow and Blue/Yellow. The wire colors on this vehicle were Black/Yellow and Red. That connector is for the purge solenoid.
Swap the connectors and code 14 is gone and the engine runs just fine.September 16, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: Anybody here know of an information resource for Hybrid Lexus? #443731Yea it wont matter if they key is in or out of the vehicle nor on or off you can be killed if you mess with the orange wires! The 1st thing you need to do is disable the high energy system per the service instructions that I could explain if you could tell me the model of the vehicle.
September 16, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: Anybody here know of an information resource for Hybrid Lexus? #443732Since the vehicle is a 2008 it has to be an ls600h. listen carefully to the instructions to disable and you will see why it doesn’t matter if the key is in or out.
To disable the high energy system there are two procedures.
1. a. Confirm status ready indicator in inst. cluster. If ready indicator is illuminated ignition is on. Push power button once to disable ignition. DO NOT PUSH POWER BUTTON AGAIN!
b. Disconnect 12 volt battery cables starting with the negative 1st and 2nd the pos (battery located in trunk driver side behind interior quarter panel. KEEP SMART KEY 16 FEET AWAY FROM VEHICLE AS IT IS AN IMMOBILIZER KEY AND ONLY THE PRESENCE OF THE KEY ALLOWS THE MODULES TO COME ALIVE.Procedure 2. If the smart key cant be 16 feet away do the same as above but remove IG#2 relay from the fuse box on passenger side engine compartment bay.
[b]NOTE: HIGH VOLTAGE SYSTEM WILL REMAIN POWERED ON FOR UP TO 10 MINUTES AFTER THE HIGH ENERGY POWER SYSTEM IS OFF/DISABLED.
Courtesy of hybrid hazards and of course me.[/b]
Cat converter and cam/crank timing come to mind. visually confirm timing belt is aligned correct and drop exhaust pipe down if you don’t have a back pressure gauge.
September 16, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: nissan sentra 03 1.8 trhottle body issues/idle problems??? #450486If the vehicle is drive by wire and the throttle actuator was unplugged you need to perform a relearn as follows;Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
DESCRIPTION
“Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.OPERATION PROCEDURE
- Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
- Turn ignition switch “ON”.
- Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds . Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Give that a try and let us know
Sounds like the fuel pump is getting weak. The theory is that when you cycle the key you eventually build enough fuel pressure to start the engine. fuel pressure test and change the fuel filter. let us know
If you hit the plugs with a good strong 3/8 impact they are less likely to break… I know sound stupid but it works.
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