[jacobnbr1]

I would tear down and re-check the mechanical timing belt to confirm it is in time cause to me it sounds like your off a tooth.
You can actually have a good timing signal with a light but still be out a tooth somewhere.

[jacobnbr1]

If there is still a powertrain warranty you need to have documents that it was serviced with dealer parts. Other than that I second the valvoline max life fluid.

[jacobnbr1]

Here you go!
REPLACEMENT

1. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT

• [li]Remove the radiator cap.

[/li]

CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the engine and radiator are still hot, as fluid and steam can be blown out under pressure.

• [li]Loosen the radiator drain plug (on the left side of the radiator lower tank) and engine drain plug (on the left rear of the cylinder block), and drain the coolant.
• Close the drain plugs. Torque:

[/li]

Engine drain plug: 25 Nm (250 kgf.cm, 18 ft. lbs.)

1. FILL ENGINE COOLANT

• [li]Slowly fill the system with coolant.

[/li]

• [ul]
  [li]Use a good brand of ethylene-glycol base coolant and mix it according to the manufacture’s directions.
• Using coolant which includes more than 50% ethylene-glycol (but not more than 70%) is recommended.

[/li][/ul]
NOTICE:

• Do not use an alcohol type coolant.
• The coolant should be mixed with demineralized water or distilled water.

Capacity (w/ Heater):
M/T: 8.0 liters (8.5 US qts., 7.0 Imp. qts.)
A/T: 7.7 liters (8.1 US qts., 6.8 Imp. qts.)

• [li]Install radiator cap.
• Start the engine, and bleed the cooling system.
• Refill the radiator reservoir with coolant until it reaches the “FULL” line.

[/li]

1. CHECK ENGINE COOLANT FOR LEAKS

[jacobnbr1]

Fuel pressure specs are as follows:Controlled pressure [1]215 – 265 kPa (31 – 38 psi)Uncontrolled pressure [2]280 – 330 kPa (40 – 47 psi)Displacement222 cc (7.5 oz) minimum in 10 seconds[1] With vacuum hose connected at Fuel Pressure Regulator
[2] With vacuum hose disconnected at Fuel Pressure Regulator

Clearly if you took an accurate test you have way too much pressure. Take a look at under hood hose routing from the injector rail to the return line and see if it is kinked or something. Recheck the pressure test to confirm the pressure is again 71 psi and if so then replace the pressure regulator.(See Below)

Here is the service manual procedures:

1. Relieve fuel pressure.

• [li]Disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery.
• Remove Fuel Filler Cap.
• Use a box end wrench on the 6mm service bolt at the Fuel Rail, while holding the special banjo bolt with another wrench.

[/li]

Loosen The Service Bolt

• [li]Place a rag or shop towel over the 6mm service bolt.
• SLOWLY loosen the 6mm service bolt one complete turn.

[/li]

1. Remove the service bolt on the Fuel Filter while holding the banjo bolt with another wrench and attach the fuel pressure gauge.

Clamping Pressure Regulator Hose And Measuring Fuel Pressure

1. Reconnect the battery Negative cable.
2. Start the engine. Measure the fuel pressure with the engine idling and the vacuum hose of the Fuel Pressure Regulator disconnected.

PRESSURE AT IDLE SHOULD BE: 280 – 330 kPa (40 – 47 psi)

NOTE: If the engine will not start, turn the Ignition Switch on, wait for two seconds, turn it off, then back on again and read the fuel pressure.

1. Reconnect the vacuum hose to the Fuel Pressure Regulator.

PRESSURE AT IDLE SHOULD BE: 215 – 265 kPa (31 – 38 psi)

1. If the fuel pressure is not as specified, first check the fuel pump. If the pump is okay, check the following:

• [li]If pressure is higher than specified:

[/li]

• [ul]
  [li]Pinched, collapsed, or clogged fuel return hose or piping
• Faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator

[/li][/ul]

• [li]If pressure is lower than specified:

[/li]

• [ul]
  [li]Clogged Fuel Filter
• Fuel Pressure Regulator failure
• Leakage in the fuel system

[/li][/ul]

[jacobnbr1]

That pcv system is critical, you need to fashion some kind of hose on there or go to the dealer and get the correct service parts for that.

Also if you replace the pcv valve only use a dealer valve as I’ve seen aftermarket pcv cause idle issues and MIL lights.

When you restore the vacuum lines it should restore the idle.

[jacobnbr1]

Did you see if it is setting any codes?

[jacobnbr1]

You only have to remove the drive shaft.

[jacobnbr1]

This problem is likely a bit complex for a DIY situation but be advised there are three TSBs that apply to that vehicle.

1st p0089 (In most cases is the g410 fuel pressure sensor)Refer to TSB# 01-07-69 (VW) and 24-08-56 (Audi) for further information on Low Pressure Side Fuel Pressure Sensor G410 diagnostics. 1. Verify low pressure side fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the high pressure fuel pump. The Fuel Pump Control Module J538 controls the operation of the fuel pump by a pulse width modulated signal. J538 regulates the pressure in the low pressure fuel system between 0.5 – 5 bar (7.3 – 72.5 PSI). The pressure is increased to 6.5 bar (94.3 PSI) during hot or cold startups.

2. With a factory compatible scan tool:

A. Start the vehicle and run it at an idle.

B. Disconnect Fuel Metering Valve N276 electrical connector on the high pressure fuel pump.

C. Select Address Word 01-Engine Management Master. Select Function 08-Read Measuring Value Blocks (MVB). Compare Display Group 103 field 1 (actual fuel pressure in mbar) and Display Group 106 field 1 (fuel rail pressure in bar).

D. If MVB 103 deviates than +/- 0.5 bar (7.25 PSI) from MVB 106, then the issue is most likely caused by the Low Pressure Fuel Pressure Sensor G410.

E. After replacement of G410 sensor, Function 04-Basic Settings will need to be selected. Display Group 103 will need to be activated. The vehicle will need to sit with the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) until field 4 shows “ADP.OK”.

3. With a fuel pressure gauge (a factory compatible scan tool is still required):

A. Read the fuel pressure gauge at idle. Add 1 bar (14.5 PSI) to the value obtained from the mechanical gauge.

B. Compare the mechanical gauge reading to the reading in MVB 103 field 1. (MVB 103 field 1 should be approximately 1 bar (14.5 PSI) above mechanical gauge reading.)

C. After Low Pressure Side Fuel Pressure Sensor G410 replacement; Function 04-Basic Settings will need to be selected. Display Group 103 will need to be activated. The vehicle will need to sit with the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) until field 4 shows “ADP.OK”.

4. If there is difficulty running Basic Setting 103, drive the vehicle continuously for 0.5 hours to manually perform basic setting.

2nd p0299
1. Refer to TSB 21/07/02 for replacement of turbocharger recirculation valve with new style valve.

2. Refer to TSB 01/07/18 for reflash of powertrain control module with improved software.

3rd p0455 large evap leak ( In most cases is the n80 canister purge solenoid.)
Tests: Test the N80 Canister Control Valve (CCV) function as follows:

1. Cool the valve in a freezer and then manually energize it by applying power and ground to the valve.

2. Make sure that the valve opens and closes fully and does not stick. Repeat the test with the valve heated to underhood operating temperature.

3. The valve must open and close fully and never stick.

4. Check the vacuum and vapor lines, from the N80 valve to the canister, for leakage or damage.

Test the Leak Detection Pump (LDP) function as follows:

1. At the LDP, disconnect the electrical connector.

2. Apply B+ to terminal 3 of the LDP (terminal 3 is where the Green/Yellow (GN/GE) wire would connect).

3. Apply ground to terminal 2 of the LDP (terminal 2 is where the Grey/Red (GR/RO) wire would connect).

4. Apply vacuum to a small line vacuum nipple (this should hold vacuum).

5. The purge filter should now be sealed off.
4th p0172 Is a very complex test.

• Connect pressure gauge V.A.G 1318 to fuel supply line using adapter V.A.G 1318/11 and V.A.G 1318/12.
• Connect bleed hose – arrow – to the Pressure Gauge V.A.G 1318 and hold it in a measuring container.
• Open shut-off valve of pressure gauge V.A.G 1318 . The shut off valve lever points in the direction of flow.
• Bleed fuel system by pressing remote control briefly.

• Close shut-off valve on Pressure Gauge V.A.G 1318 . The shut off valve lever points in the direction of flow. – arrow – .
• Hold switch of the remote control until no more pressure increase is observed on the Pressure Gauge V.A.G 1318 .
• Specified value: approx. 6 bar (5 to 7 bar) positive pressure.

If specification is not obtained:

• Check delivery rate of fuel pump.

Checking residual pressure

• Check for leaks and residual pressure by observing pressure drop on Pressure Gauge V.A.G 1318.
• After 10 minutes there must be a residual pressure of at least 3.75 bar .

The holding pressure drops below 3.75 bar :

• Check connection between fuel Pressure Gauge V.A.G 1318 and fuel line for leaks.
• Check Pressure Gauge V.A.G 1318 for leaks.
• Check fuel lines and their connections for leaks.
• Replace fuel filter with integrated fuel pressure regulator.
• If the fuel filter is OK, replace fuel pump.

[jacobnbr1]

There actually is a shortcut to use but you have to log into motorcraft service dot com and plug in the VIN before you can even find out what the short cut is.

So I had to step out for a while and I instructed him to trouble shoot the problem and I get back there this truck is with the tank out and a new 400.00 fuel pump sitting on the bench with one element of evidence it is bad.
When I asked for the conclusion procedure I was directed to the spec sheet on alldata where you had to completely bypass all the notes about the system being variable pump, re-turnless with an external pump driver to control the system.

Really? I had the short cut pulled up in like half a minute including the failure % rate of pumps on that style truck vs’s pump drivers, wiring etc.

He has a 20% chance that guess was right and I have a 50% chance it is a wiring issue + a 25% chance it is a controller driver. The other 5% is for a relay or pcm problem but that isn’t going to prove out cause the pump did actually run which of course means those two things are working.

This guy has been with me for a while and seems the longer the trouble tree is the more likely he will make a guess and not follow throughW-|

[jacobnbr1]

Does it have any codes?

[jacobnbr1]

Is the check engine light on and maybe a code?

Was it running bad before you changed the oil?

Maybe you knocked off a hose,check for a vacuum leak..

I would start with that before I start throwing parts at it.

[jacobnbr1]

Does it have any codes?

[jacobnbr1]

Is the check engine light on and maybe a code?

Was it running bad before you changed the oil?

Maybe you knocked off a hose,check for a vacuum leak..

I would start with that before I start throwing parts at it.

[jacobnbr1]

Glad to help out. S:)

[jacobnbr1]

Take the drive shaft out and check the u-joints. replace u-joints if bad and have drive shaft balanced if not.
Look for a place on the drive shaft where a weight may have been but has fallen off or possibly a dent.
Play in the u-joint is not necessary for a vibration to exist, you could have a binding joint.
If the drive shaft is made from steel and has bad rust scale, the loss of material through rust scale can amount to ounces that can also cause balance issues.

[Author]

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