[jacobnbr1]

Doesn’t really matter! What I would do is take your new coil out and put it back in the box and go back to the parts store and exchange it for the complete distributor.
Make sure you buy the brand new one instead of the rebuilt one. (it will last longer)

Install the distributor is pretty basic.
The input shaft of the distributor will only go in one way and I think there is (2) 12 mm bolts to remove, try and put it back in the same clock position as the old one for ignition timing. (Note the position of the top bolt of the rectangle adjusting slot)

[jacobnbr1]

Those voltages are not trivial, there is a valid voltage drop issue and should be corrected.
The .71 is too high on the pos side.
Although you didn’t get a valid drop test done on the negative lead I see a problem in the voltage alone and there is about 1.0 volt loss there too.

There is two theifs in the circuits causing a 2 volt drop in the fuel pump circuits,The pump is designed to run at min of 12 volts and is being run at times at 10 volts but probably much worse when the load has been working for a while building heat in the circuits.

Starving the pump for voltage can cause erratic behavior and lead to premature failure. (And I don’t care what anyone else has to say about it)

[jacobnbr1]

Heck, if we are guessing let’s throw a distributor at it, That would be the best educated guess I know of not to mention the most popular problem ever encountered with hondas

By guessing a distributor we are replacing the cam sensor, crank sensor, ignition module(aka igniter) and ignition coil.

We also haven’t determined that the timing belt is or is not broke either..

Crank no start possible causes=

fuel pump, restricted fuel flow, low compression, no compression,broken timing belt, broken wiring, no fire, no injection pulse, bad magnetic pick up for cam and crank signal references,lack of intake air, shorted fuel injector, open fuel injector,broken pin in distributor gear, bad pcm, blown fuse, bad main relay, distributor cap & rotor, flooded with gas, spark plugs, I mean really!?!?

And the list goes on and on!

[jacobnbr1]

[jacobnbr1]

Is there spark coming from the spark plug wires?

Is there an injection pulse?

Is the camshaft turning?
The Check Engine/PGM-FI warning lamp should be illuminated for approximately 2 seconds after the ignition switch is placed in the ON position as a bulb check. After approximately 2 seconds, the lamp should go OFF. If lamp remains ON, a problem in the Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI) System is indicated and a code is stored in the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) memory. After diagnosis and repair, the PGM-FI ECU memory can be cleared by disconnecting the battery ground cable for approximately 10 seconds.TDC/CRANK/CYL Sensor

This sensor, contained in the distributor housing, consists of three rotors, TDC, CRANK, and CYL, there associated pickup coils, and a common shaft. Since the rotors are coupled to the cam shaft, they turn together as a unit as the cam shaft rotates.

The CRANK sensor determines timing for fuel injection and ignition of each cylinder and also detects engine rpm. The TDC sensor determines ignition timing at start-up (cranking) and when crank angle is abnormal. The CYL sensor detects the position of No. 1 cylinder for sequential fuel injection to each cylinder.

[jacobnbr1]

This is the only diagram I could find with a blue and black wire inside the cockpit. Do all the power windows work?

[jacobnbr1]

Here is the diagram of the main relay.

I would run through this tree with a simple test light or preferably a dvom.

1. Verify that the Black/Yellow (BLK/YEL) wire on the igniter has battery voltage Key On Engine Off (KOEO). Verify that the coil positive and negative has battery voltage KOEO.

2. Test the White (WHT) wire at the igniter. It should have 9 to 12 volts produced by the igniter. If there is no voltage, and the igniter has power and the distributor and igniter are grounded, then the igniter is faulty. If the WHT wire has the correct voltage, the Engine Control Module (ECM) pulses the voltage to ground so spark will occur.

3. Test the signal on the WHT wire with a scope or a dwell meter. The signal should be a square wave signal or 10 to 14 degrees of dwell on a 4-cylinder scale. If the signal is good, look for a trigger signal on coil negative. A jumper wire can be used to manually try and trigger spark, back probe and pulse ground on the WHT wire or terminal of the igniter. The igniter should pulse coil negative and spark should occur. If there is no spark, check for a trigger signal on coil negative. If there is no trigger signal, the igniter and coil will need to be replaced

[jacobnbr1]

Maybe this will help.

http://tinyurl.com/6hlpg6c

http://tinyurl.com/68qeoxp

The load MUST be on to do a valid voltage drop test!!!

[jacobnbr1]

1. Test the coil and igniter in the distributor by removing the distributor cap and rotor. The Black/Yellow (BLK/YEL) wire should have battery voltage, key on engine off. Also, the coil negative wire should have battery voltage.

2. The Yellow/Green (YEL/GRN) wire should have 9 to 12 volts produced by the igniter.

3. When the YEL/GRN wire has the correct voltage, all the Engine Control Module (ECM) does is pulse the voltage to ground so spark will occur. This signal can be checked on a scope or a dwell meter. The signal should be a square wave signal on a scope or 10 to 14 degrees of dwell on a dwell meter on a 4-cylinder scale.

4. If the signal is correct, look for a trigger signal on coil negative. If there is a signal on coil negative, replace the ignition coil. If there is no signal on coil negative, replace the coil and igniter.
Does the fuel injectors have a pulse?

If you find a problem inside the distributor you can just put the whole distributor in it cheaper than buying all the parts separate.

[jacobnbr1]

There are a couple common concepts in automotive lingo that we need to clear up here.

1. Engine cranks but no start = Starter cranks but the engine doesn’t fire up.

2. Engine wont crank to start = No starter activity to crank the engine for start.

Which one do you have?

[jacobnbr1]

Yes I know. We mechanics have become spoiled with bi-directional testers that can command the pump on.

You need to try and get a voltage test on the neg side and if it is ok then we know the circuits are good.

It’s not as easy as many people think is it?

[jacobnbr1]

It takes a basic set of experience to talk in automotive terms specially in todays modern vehicles with many high tech scopes, meters, and scan tools.
The profession is being revolutionized, Brute force has been supplanted by brain power and this is rocket science.
I figured I could help out with trouble trees, wiring diagrams and technical service bulletins but after reading alot of what I’ve posted to help others I keep hearing that inner thought ‘ How do you expect this person to perform this type diagnostics with a multi meter and small knowledge’ and the answer is I can’t.

Anyway, let me know what was wrong with it when you get it fixed.

[jacobnbr1]

Here is an update on this topic.

Friday after the ‘Guess’ and after the fuel pump (400.00) was installed the vehicle still had 17lbs of fuel pressure and would hardly run so I once again pointed to the 26 step diagnostic flow sheet and walked away.

Tuesday the tech just really hasn’t a clue where to go with this thing and dreaded the thought of the flow sheet, takes another suggestion from a buddy that works in another shop and decides to replace the remote mount fuel pump driver (cost 105.00) to no avail the truck still runs like poop. The tech then stated he thought the converters were clogged. (Holy cow dude, Based on what evidence?)

Today I came in and told him to do nothing but watch me perform the diagnostic flow sheet armed with nothing more than the factory flow sheet and on step 3 I had already confirmed the health of the other components that he thought were bad and on step 5 I found the evidence I was looking for, and that evidence was that the injection rail pressure sensor reads 65 psi when the mechanical gauge reads 17psi and the flow sheet says if the reading from the sensor is inconsistent with mechanical pressure to replace the fuel rail pressure sensor (87.00).

Bingo!!! Truck came alive and pressure came up to spec.

Problem solved and I had less than two hours troubleshoot to repair.
The pcm thought the fuel pump was delivering 65psi of pressure and reduced the flow output to retract the pressure but in actual it was reducing the pressure where the engine would starve for fuel.

Glad it is fixed but this dude seriously needs to get with the program and do his due diligence!

[jacobnbr1]

That sounds like the typical dealers that I know. (All we can do is speculate what took placed based on the information you have provided us)

The leak down test they performed is consistent with what they 1st said about the rings but the second part about valves is not.

Sounds to me that someone bent the valves either by rotating the engine to time it before the chain was installed or by attempting to start it.

Logical common sense tells me that the valves were bent slightly yielding a minor lack of compression and not complete catastrophic valve bend similar to chain failure.

Are they asking you to pay for it?

Stick to the facts and don’t let them out.

Remind them the conversation that took place about the valves were good and the short block needed replaced.

Here is a cut and paste of what the service manual says about possible valve damage upon disassembly and reassembly of the chain that must be removed to change the short block. (Pay close attention to the ‘NOTICE’)

• REMOVE NO. 1 CHAIN TENSIONER

a)Remove the 2 bolts and chain tensioner.

NOTICE:
[ul]

[jacobnbr1]

I already posted the flow of diagnostics to pin point the issue above.

Here they are again:

First, remove the instrument cluster and locate the Red wire in the Blue connector.

With the lights on back-probe and ground the Red wire, the dash light should light up bright. (that will simply do a bulb check)

If the dash lights work, verify that the Red/Black wire in the same connector has battery voltage, with the lights on, and that the Black wire has a good ground.

If all tests are OK, it is the function of the CPU in the cluster to vary the ground on the Red wire so the dash light would operate.

[Author]

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