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[quote=”BlackenZaib” post=120719]I dont quite understand it myself. For starters the copied key (which came with the car) has the same keyring hole. Why did they say they wont touch it? The recall eould of worked for it too. And if anyone knows please do tell… How would modifying the key do anything? How could a ignition that is on the dash get “bumped” from run position?[/quote]
Some vehicles get new blades, some get new locks and keys, and laser cuts get the blade removed from the fobik and a silverado blade.
Different models get different recall.
The figure the smaller hole will solve the issue of overloading the ring.
I’m not sure how one could bump the ignition but I do see a bunch of Chryslers with bent fobik blades.
I do the laser cut recalls for the Chevy dealers in my town and the cuts are now deeper down the blade making the key set in deeper.The plug wire recall is a very old one.
Resident locksmith
[quote=”BlackenZaib” post=120719]I dont quite understand it myself. For starters the copied key (which came with the car) has the same keyring hole. Why did they say they wont touch it? The recall eould of worked for it too. And if anyone knows please do tell… How would modifying the key do anything? How could a ignition that is on the dash get “bumped” from run position?[/quote]
Some vehicles get new blades, some get new locks and keys, and laser cuts get the blade removed from the fobik and a silverado blade.
Different models get different recall.
The figure the smaller hole will solve the issue of overloading the ring.
I’m not sure how one could bump the ignition but I do see a bunch of Chryslers with bent fobik blades.
I do the laser cut recalls for the Chevy dealers in my town and the cuts are now deeper down the blade making the key set in deeper.The plug wire recall is a very old one.
Resident locksmith
There is no bypass procedures. You shouldn’t do it anyway.
The Immobilizer module is married to the pcm and is looking for a hertz signal on a wire. (That’s all I’m saying about theory and operations)
You may have junked the Immobilizer box or blown a fuse. Does the green key light do anything at all?
If the light never lights up you need to check fuses and grounds.
If the light comes on and flashes then perhaps the keys were deleted.
Either way you need a dealer or locksmith to help get this car going again.
I was wondering what the problem was that caused you to look at the Immobilizer system.
A new Immobilizer unit is like 80 bucks and is not plug and play, you need a HDS system to marry the unit to the ecm and then to add keys.There is no bypass procedures. You shouldn’t do it anyway.
The Immobilizer module is married to the pcm and is looking for a hertz signal on a wire. (That’s all I’m saying about theory and operations)
You may have junked the Immobilizer box or blown a fuse. Does the green key light do anything at all?
If the light never lights up you need to check fuses and grounds.
If the light comes on and flashes then perhaps the keys were deleted.
Either way you need a dealer or locksmith to help get this car going again.
I was wondering what the problem was that caused you to look at the Immobilizer system.
A new Immobilizer unit is like 80 bucks and is not plug and play, you need a HDS system to marry the unit to the ecm and then to add keys.It needs a new pre-tensioner…. Now I must ask if this car was rolling or sitting still? Key on or off? Driver or passenger?
Even if you was yanking and banging on it it should’ve never have deployed unless the data parameters were met.
Doesn’t seem like normal characteristics to me. I would taket it to the dealer and explain what happen and see if the get a field engineer to evaluate the black box data.
I deploy these things all the time and I’ve never gotten one to deploy outside of the programmed parameters unless I directly bypass the modules and power it manually.Very interesting indeed.
It needs a new pre-tensioner…. Now I must ask if this car was rolling or sitting still? Key on or off? Driver or passenger?
Even if you was yanking and banging on it it should’ve never have deployed unless the data parameters were met.
Doesn’t seem like normal characteristics to me. I would taket it to the dealer and explain what happen and see if the get a field engineer to evaluate the black box data.
I deploy these things all the time and I’ve never gotten one to deploy outside of the programmed parameters unless I directly bypass the modules and power it manually.Very interesting indeed.
I was referring to the attachment where it shows the pointer on the cover aligned with the white mark on the pulley.
I was referring to the attachment where it shows the pointer on the cover aligned with the white mark on the pulley.
Sounds like you have it right. The only confusion I’ve noticed guys fallen error to is the front cam gear and the crank alignment but I think if guys would carefully read the procedure before they tear into it they would rectify their problems.
The rear has only one line to line up so I think it’s right.
See images..Sounds like you have it right. The only confusion I’ve noticed guys fallen error to is the front cam gear and the crank alignment but I think if guys would carefully read the procedure before they tear into it they would rectify their problems.
The rear has only one line to line up so I think it’s right.
See images..1998 i30 doesn’t have chip key (check manufacture date) 1999 does and I will presume you have a 99.
99 I30 is not very friendly at all meaning there were special cables to interface with nats.
Most advanced locksmiths should be able to take care of this for you.
Are all the keys lost or do you have 1 working key?
If you have a working key seek out a clone.
If all keys are lost you may need to get the EEPROM reset to virgin inside the PCM. The dealer will just sell you a PCM and nats module but this can be done for less.Your resident vehicle security professional and locksmith.
1998 i30 doesn’t have chip key (check manufacture date) 1999 does and I will presume you have a 99.
99 I30 is not very friendly at all meaning there were special cables to interface with nats.
Most advanced locksmiths should be able to take care of this for you.
Are all the keys lost or do you have 1 working key?
If you have a working key seek out a clone.
If all keys are lost you may need to get the EEPROM reset to virgin inside the PCM. The dealer will just sell you a PCM and nats module but this can be done for less.Your resident vehicle security professional and locksmith.
Just because the manual says not to (they all say this) doesn’t mean something was damaged. The only way to know for sure is at this point finish it and start it.
I’m not going to say I told you so but I will say you now know what’s us “stealership” techs go through.
The crank bolt takes a special tool but if you don’t have one you can brace a good snapon 1/2 drive breaker bar against the frame and let the starter loosen it up for ya but I gotta caution new users of this work around to be careful and do it with the belt still attached and in time.
If it damaged it then it damaged the valves where you will have a misfire on a particular cylinder.
I hope you aligned the crank pulley to the large triangle pointer towards the back and not the small one closer to the radiator side.Just because the manual says not to (they all say this) doesn’t mean something was damaged. The only way to know for sure is at this point finish it and start it.
I’m not going to say I told you so but I will say you now know what’s us “stealership” techs go through.
The crank bolt takes a special tool but if you don’t have one you can brace a good snapon 1/2 drive breaker bar against the frame and let the starter loosen it up for ya but I gotta caution new users of this work around to be careful and do it with the belt still attached and in time.
If it damaged it then it damaged the valves where you will have a misfire on a particular cylinder.
I hope you aligned the crank pulley to the large triangle pointer towards the back and not the small one closer to the radiator side.Door lock actuators are pattern here. See repair track 6113
If the power door locks repeatedly keep trying to lock the doors, test the lock input to the door lock control unit from the driver’s door lock actuator. The door lock control unit sends out a reference voltage on a Blue/White wire to the door lock actuator. The door lock actuator takes this Blue/White wire to ground when the door locks are locked to signal the door lock control unit that the door has locked. If the contacts in the door lock actuator do not properly ground the reference voltage, the door lock control unit will keep trying to lock the doors until the voltage completely goes to ground. To test, remove the driver’s door panel and locate the Blue/White wire on the power door lock actuator. With the positive lead of a digital volt ohm meter (DVOM), back probe the Blue/White wire on the power door lock actuator. Place the negative lead of the DVOM on a known good ground. Observe the voltmeter and verify that the voltage drops near 0 volts when the door locks are locked. If the voltage is not near 0 volts or is erratic, try grounding the Blue/White wire. Verify the door lock control unit stops trying to lock the doors. If grounding the Blue/White wire corrects the problem, verify the Black ground wire at the actuator is good. Replace the drivers power door lock actuator as necessary.
