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You didn´t take any photos with the Borescope by chance ? I´m curious.
Did you wash the top of the engine before you took those photos ? It looks awfully dry and void of oil.
The car is an Opel Vectra B Estate 2001. It probably won´t tell you much if I give you the VIN. The engine is used in some other GM cars, like the Saturn ? I think….
The error code is the dreaded P0420.
Upon insepction today, the error has come back. When watching the O2 sensors real time, the Bank1sensor2 is still almost as “active” as the Bank1Sensor1 is. I´m guessing I have to pony up and change the precat.
The bank2sensor2 is hovering nicely around .5 volts like it is supposed to.
It sounds like it is flooding. If there is a return hose to the gas tank, make sure it´s clear. Also, the vent hose from the tank should be checked. If you run the car without the tank lid on, are the symptoms still the same ?
I´m assuiming that it´s a carb on your car ? I´ld probably look into that. Needle valve and float hight etc….
If you smell petrol, I´ld search for the culprit in that system. The theory about increasing resistance in the ignition system seems a bit far fetched. A cold engine that won´t run smoothly COULD be because of moisture, but silicone spray should cure that easily.
No, I didn´t suspect it did. But usually manufacturers places certain components in roughly the same spots
It was just to give you a hint. I´m not even sure, if the Haynes can point to its location. The dealer should be able to however.
Even if you have replaced the timing belt, you need to make sure, that you can turn the engine by hand. At least two full revolutions. If you have pulled the plugs, there shouldn´t be much resistance.
You can take off the valvecover and check visually, if the valves are going up and down. Otherwise, a compression test will tell you, if one or more cylinders are leaking and a leak test with compressed air, will tell you WHERE it´s leaking.
Odds are a bit against you. Most engines are interference engines, which means, that pistons and valves occupy the same space at different times when the engine rotates. If that is the case, when the engine stopped, chances are, that pistons and valves collided. In worst case, the valves will have knocked a hole in one or more pistons rendering the engine worthless unless you rebuild it and in best case, there will be a few valves bent. The latter still requires a visit to a machine shop to get the old valves out, have the guides changed and the valves, as well as have the valves seats recut. It is also possible that the cams are bent a tad, so they should be straightened as well. Not a cheap procedure, so a replacement engine might be cheaper.
If you are VERY lucky, you can replace the timing belt and nothing else has happened. I wouldn´t get my hopes up untill verified via the above procedures.
If you are going to throw parts at it, throw the cheapest ones first 🙂
The bearing is probably the cheapest to start with. I take it, that the sensor is integrated in the bearing / hub ? Some cars are like that, others you can replace the sensor itself.
If you are worried, use the fine grit paper on the housing as well and then use a silicone based sealant on the outside of the seal when you install it. Put it on the edge of the seal so any excess material is pushed out of the engine instead of on the inside of the housing where it will be pushed in.
I don´t see anything I would worry about. Any tiny shavings will either be caught by a magnet in the sump or your oil filter. I would just use some very fine grit sand paper to polish the crank nose a little bit before installing the new seal. Make sure you give it some lubrication, both on the rubber on the seal and on the crank nose.
For the Express 3500, this seems like a likely place to look:
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t12803860-body_control_module_chevy_express_3500
In the European GM car I´m driving, the relay is not part of the fuse box either. I had to take the fuse box down and above it, the relay was tied to a support bracket for the dash panel.
[quote=”tenpin3000″ post=169907]Update:
I talked to a few people and the consensus is that if the engine rotates both ways but the range of motion is limited, that more than likely it’s just a timing belt, and as long as there is no valve/piston damage the engine should work after the timing belt replacmeent. Would appreciate your feedback as well, thanks in advance for all replies.[/quote]
It does indeed sound like a timing belt is broken. I´ll cross my fingers, that it´s the only thing that needs replacing. .I´ve never been so lucky myself. In most cases, there has been a few bent valves and / or broken pistons on the engines I´ve worked on. Let us know what you find once you get the belt replaced.
Not too familiar with American cars, but a car that suddenly stops and subsequently can´t turn over, sounds like a broken cam-belt to me. When you turn the engine over by hand, make sure the cams turns as well.
If the cam belt is broken, you´ll likely not be able to turn it, as there will most likely be bent valves in the head.
SO… let´s say your boss tells you to fix this car, but the specific repair requires a specific tool. Are you required to get that tool and make the customer wait while getting it ? What happens if you can´t afford that tool right now ? Will your company step in and get it for you and make you pay for it later or is just “too bad” for the customer ? How does that work ?