Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
O2 sensors gets a lot of blame, even from the ECU. But when you think about it, it´s the last piece in the foodchain. Basically everything that goes on in an engine happens before. If you have a vacuum leak, who gets the blame when the ECU can´t figure out the proper mixture ? Right… the O2 sensor.
If you have changed the O2 sensor, measured out the circuit for the sensor, if the fault still shows up, it´s not the O2 sensor. It just takes the blame. You need to examine basically everything that happens BEFORE the O2 sensor.
You can apply a tiny amount of the same , usually blue, silicone grease they use when assembling calipers and brake cylinders.
Come to think of it, why is everybody always talking about steel tubing, when copper tubing is easier to work with and actually more durable? I Know, it costs more but…..
[quote=”CanDo807″ post=173490][quote=”peshewa” post=173285]First of all, please do not ever use a compression fitting on a brake line. They are technically illegal in most areas, but they are known to fail under hard sudden panic stops. You will know it was wrong when you arrive at the scene of the accident. [/quote]
I hear ya! Don’t wanna be like the old joke about the last thing that goes through your mind before the steering wheel….should not have used compression fittings…..
[quote=”peshewa” post=173285] This is the easiest to follow video I’ve seen so far. It’s the kind of thing that can really frustrate you until you get the hang of it. [/quote]
Thanks for the video. Looks pretty much like the ones I watched. The only difference was a very noticeable and strong champher (beveled edge) he put on the outside of the tubing before doing the double flare techniques. Could that alone be the source of the problem?
[quote=”peshewa” post=173285] What I’m saying is that you need to practice. I’ve never seen anyone get it right on the first attempt. Even seasoned techs sometimes mess up and have to start over. If your in eastern Iowa, I can give you a hand.
I got sick of starting over and going through multiple premade lines also in the past, so I got a 20 foot reel of 3/16 brake line. I took my time practicing until I got the hang of it. Keep in mind that 3/16 line is the most common size used. If you were to buy a spool, or longer section of it, you will find use for the rest of it in time. [/quote]
Hey thanks for the offer to give me a hand. Unfortunately I am on the East Coast, closer to collegeman than even Eric. I wasn’t sure how tough this would be so I did use the extra I cut off to practice. But after the 4 failed attempts, I figured something was terribly wrong. I note that there is some comment to avoid messing up the coating on the outside of the line, well as you can see it looks like the tool chewed all of that up and ground it off. So Again another sign that something is wrong in Dodge City! 😛
[quote=”peshewa” post=173285] Make sure the flare nuts are the correct thread pitch too, some are similar but different, that can trick you. See if the flare nut threads in relatively easy without the brake line, all by itself. If not, you know your senses have been tricked. [/quote]
That is a good thought and one I was concerned with. Spent a lot of time in the parts store studying the nuts and threads. Then when it was “so close,” I tried connecting one end and seeing if it ran down all of the way by hand. When that confirmed I was actually threading the connector and NOT cross threading it, I took it off and did the same thing on the other end. Both ends threaded in fine independently. That way I know they are the correct nuts and what things should feel like when I was doing final assembly. But even when I got it all assembled and tightened down, I still had a leak at the wheel cylinder.
[b][color=#ff0088]How about using an o-ring on the nut side of the double flare? Could that provide the extra sealing I need?
What about pipe dope on the threads? Teflon tape?[/color][/b]
[quote=”peshewa” post=173285] I don’t want to poopoo on the last poster’s ideas, but compression fittings in automobile brake lines isn’t about being technically correct, it’s about saving a life. Please don’t ever use that in a brake line.[/quote]
Hey, I hear ya! Thanks for the warning. No point in being penny wise and pound foolish!
Now if I could figure out if it was the tool? or something stupid I did?[/quote]
U do NOT use anything to seal any brake parts. No o-rings or teflon tape on any brake pipe. None of it will hold the 100-300 Bar pressure that you put on a brake system in a panic situation.
Just make sure you use the right nuts. Here is a website that shows some different ones: https://www.thansen.dk/bil/autoreservedele/universaldele/bremsedele/omlober-nippel/n-354112285/
Notice, that some has thread all the way out and others has a small collar. Look at the old nuts and make sure, that the new ones are the same kind.
Lots of short trips where nothing really gets to temperature, will do just that to an EGR.
I would check the EGR first.
It doesn´t matter, because there is room along the sides of the banjo bolt. Fluid will find its way.
Good luck with your project 🙂
In that case, usually I´ld replace the faulty part of the harness. It does depend on the price though. Some cars, the harness is split up, even on the engine.
How much would they be charging you for the harness alone ?
What should be wrong with your harness ? Usually, a harness is only replaced if there has been a meltdown in it or someone REALLY messed it up because they didn´t know what they were doing.
Is it because he can´t actually communicate with the ECU that he claims the harness must be broken ?
In 10 years, I´ve maybe replaced 2 harnesses and that was because the car had been in a crash in one case and due to a shortcut frying the harness in the other.
Leaking injector ? That would explain the “hard to start when hot” and likewise the smell of fuel. Might be worth checking.
Somebody with more up-to-date experience than me, please jump in, but I´ld assume you could check fuel pressure at idle, stop the car and see how fast the pressure drops. I´ld think that would indicate a leaking injector.
Usually, you can “flash” the codes with your CEL.
Maybe this could be of help:
I don´t even…..
How can ANYONE be that negligent ? I mean….I`m stumped and at a loss for words.
If a mechanic here in Denmark did something like that, he would be fired instantly. And rightfully so.
It is more likely to be the Crank sensor than the ICM. The sensor is also the cheapest, so no harm is done if you replace it.