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It would surprise me if the idle speed did NOT drop down when the A/C kicks in, since an A/C system can pull up to 15 BHP from an engine. The fans starting when the A/C is turned on is also perfectly fine, as long as they aren´t running full speed.
If it ain´t broke, don´t fix it.
[quote=”Evil-i” post=174518]I wouldn’t use spark plug torque to install the stud. Seems way too high for what it has to do. A dab of a “temporary” thread locking adhesive, like Loctite Blue 242, and tightening the stud just to “snug”, should be fine.[/quote]
^^^ what he said !
[quote=”mkymnzns” post=174323][quote=”Iznogood” post=174284]While 900 is a tad high I´ld guess, what´s wrong with 700 with AC on ?
Isn´t there some sort of base adjustment on a car that old you can perform ? I remember some Mazdas, where you had to short a wire to ground and do a base adjustment of idle speed.
I think Eric showed more or less the same thing on a Honda of sorts in one of his videos.[/quote]
it’s the first I’ve heard of such a procedure but it might be worth a try. Could you point me out on the exact link? I’m trying to search it on Eric’s channel but i can’t find it. 🙁 Thank you in advance![/quote]
I´ll do my best, but I can´t remember off the top of my head, so I have to do a search too…..
While 900 is a tad high I´ld guess, what´s wrong with 700 with AC on ?
Isn´t there some sort of base adjustment on a car that old you can perform ? I remember some Mazdas, where you had to short a wire to ground and do a base adjustment of idle speed.
I think Eric showed more or less the same thing on a Honda of sorts in one of his videos.
[quote=”nightflyr” post=174252]I’m assuming that prior to replacing the plugs and wires the vehicle did not have these issues.
If so, I suggest you look back at what you replaced.
1 Are your using the correct spark plugs and that they are gaped correctly.
2 Are your ignition wires are the correct type for your vehicle.
3 Do you have the wires in the correct firing order for your engine.
4 Are all the wires fully seated on both the plugs and distributor.[/quote]I´m thinking number 3 and 4 are the place I´ld look first. Especially if the problem arose after changing the plugs.
You have cared for your car, and it can feel it 🙂 That´s the only change.
No, seriously, you can´t actively do anything by just plugging your scanner in. It doesn´t provide anything, other than communication. Besides, a car that is only a year old, shouldn´t have any problems, IF you care for it and keeps it serviced.
I find it amazing, that you guys (America in general) fiddle around with A/C systems like it´s nothing. The coolant is both toxic and bad to got out in the atmosphere and yet you can buy it in any convenience store like chips or rice pudding.
Many here talks about using coolant to check for leaks, which means they are venting it, until they find the leak. Or just keeps filling up.
You know, here in Denmark, you have to be bloody certified to work with that stuff and you have to show your certificate to be able to buy the damn coolant.
Some here talks about evacuating the system, but into what ? I don´t see any pick up canisters in the kits you can get off Ebay. So you just suck the coolant out and vent it ?
Test for leaks with vacuum and nitrogen. NOT with coolant !! Even compressed air can do it, if you have taken the water out.
The link system is what I would check first. It´s usually easy to check, hence it would be my starting point.
[quote=”Chu” post=174157][quote=”gmule” post=174156]It is a stud screwed into the valve cover righty tighty lefty loosy[/quote]
It screws onto the valve cover? So does that mean, if all fails, I can just replace the valve cover?[/quote]
I don´t see why not. Drilling and using an extractor seems like the way to go. Then check the threads and put a new stud in. You can usually find studs on ebay in various sizes, if the dealer is far away.
Small power hungry accessories like lights (not headlights) up to a 5% drop is fine. For large ones, up to 10% is considered good. Ofc you can always make it better, but that´s what the manufacturers are aiming for.
well, most modern alternators can crank out around 100-120 Amps…. it has to be some fuse. Not sure I would bother with it. Why would you ?
I´ve never seen a fusible link on either the European and Japanese cars I´ve worked on. I wouldn´t worry too much about it.
So when you jump the relay, the A/C works. YAY. That´s the expensive parts.
Get a wiring diagram of your car and find out, why the switch doesn´t activate the relay. There is probably a reason you can find in the diagrams, as to why the switch says “on” without activating the relay. Something is broken between your switch and the A/C relay. Could be just a bad connection in a wiring socket or something.Ofc there can be other reasons, why the car thinks the A/C shouldn´t be allowed to turn on. Have you had a scanner on it ? Any fault codes ? Do you have access to pressure gauges for an A/C system ?
Maybe a bit of debris was knocked lose inside your fuellines. Check the ICV and clean it, if present. I don´t know if your Honda has one.
it sounds like the problem you see when a trailer has faulty lights. You know, when the blinker is on, the stop light or something like that blnks too. It´s getting the ground from the other circuits lightbulb if that makes sense. It´s been seen on a lot of french cars as well as italian, as some of their taillights are really bad quality and/or has bad wiring to them
Check your harness and all connections. I´m almost certain that´s where you´ll find the ffault. Make sure, that if you do any measuring, that everything you measure on stays connected. A continuity test with a voltmeter will show connection even if there is only strand of copper making the connection. It won´t be able to deliver a full current and the required amps.