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You need to check for continuity in the AC clutch coil. It sounds like a burnt coil.Will the clutch engage, if you supply 12v and ground to it through the 2 wires ?
[quote=”nightflyr” post=188853]Possible causes:
Restricted air flow through the radiator
Faulty thermostat
Faulty water pump or impeller
Faulty fan clutch
Restricted coolant flow through the radiator[/quote]^^ What he said.
Had a VW Golf 4 that did that. It was corrosion on the plug on the ABS module. Try some contact spray and see if it helps. It did for me. Erase the faults afterwards and go for a drive.
I can see you are right about the Haynes missing wiring diagram for the engine. I do however, have access to TIS2000 from Opel and I’ve added a PDF for you. I hope this helps. You want to be looking at B57 which should be your secondary O2 sensor. B166 is the primary. I hope this helps.
A Haynes Manual would come in handy, wouldn’t it ?
I have one for the facelift 2003-2006. I assume it’s the same wiring ?
Is your tester / OBD scanner capable of showing live data ? The downstream O2 sensor should be fairly steady around .5 volts during operation. Upstream should vary between .2 and .8V at around 2-3 Hertz.If the heater is malfunctioning and the O2 sensor has been replaced, I’ld look for problems in the wiring. Lets say there is a short from the heater circuit (12V) to the O2 sensor circuit (which generates between 0.1 and 0.9 V ) you might get the problems you are experiencing. Find a wiring diagram and start measuring 🙂
For a 100, you can also get a Delphi clone on Aliexpress.It takes all brands more or less and has some pretty cool features. It takes all the modules in the car as well.
Could it be, that they gave you the wrong part ? Sometimes equipment in cars change within a year, like >9/98 or <10/98….. could be they just found the wrong part when looking it up.
You say, that you could usually hear the fuel pump when the ignition is turned on ? You are SURE of that ? Some cars don´t turn on the fuel pump until you crank the engine.
IF the pump should start when Ignition is turned on, I´ld check to verify that via a wiring diagram and try to find out, why it doesn´t turn on now. If the software can turn it on, but the car doesn´t, it does sound to me as if it only should switch on, when the car is cranked / running. Something is missing, if the ECU doesn´t tell the pump to switch on. Again, look at the wiring diagram and maýbe look at the crankshaft sensor. If the ECU is supposed to control the pump, it is probably missing some input from a sensor or something.
If you turn on ignition and then short the starter with a jumper wire, will it crank normally ?
You don´t state if the igition barrel has been checked. Sounds like it´s worn out. I´ld suspect the problem is in that circuit.
Okay. Have you checked the nozzles ? Could be the one on cylinder one isn´t working quite as it should. It would be easiest to check with an oscilloscope.
Or you could swap it around with a nozzle from one of the other cylinders. If the misfire moves to that cylinder as well, you have your culprit.
When´s the last time it had new plugs ? If it´s the same cylinder every time, surely something is up.
Give your tires a bit more toe-in to off-set the negative camber. A good garage with 4 wheel alignment equipment should be able to do the job. Also, if its a good quality supplier for your springs, there should be a certificate with them, that tells you the new wheel alignment values.