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Hey Eric thanks for the reply.
I just got the rebuild kit in tonight and saw your comment so I guess I’m going to hold off on that.However could you comment a little more on how to adjust this rod? Ever experienced a problem like this before?
This past week I ended up adjusting the rod to the point of resistance and then backed it off a quarter turn. This actually leads to the clevis having a slight bit of pressure on it but I figured i’d try it and so far there is no popping and the car drives great but I just have a bad feeling since it goes against the recommendation of the FSM. Also I would hate to replace a working part that is just improperly adjusted only to realize it after the new part starts doing the same thing.
Is there a way to check if the rod is too far in and actually engaging the clutch other than the resistance on the clevis pin? Like how much is too much and how much is too little?Hey Eric thanks for the reply.
I just got the rebuild kit in tonight and saw your comment so I guess I’m going to hold off on that.However could you comment a little more on how to adjust this rod? Ever experienced a problem like this before?
This past week I ended up adjusting the rod to the point of resistance and then backed it off a quarter turn. This actually leads to the clevis having a slight bit of pressure on it but I figured i’d try it and so far there is no popping and the car drives great but I just have a bad feeling since it goes against the recommendation of the FSM. Also I would hate to replace a working part that is just improperly adjusted only to realize it after the new part starts doing the same thing.
Is there a way to check if the rod is too far in and actually engaging the clutch other than the resistance on the clevis pin? Like how much is too much and how much is too little?The problem is definitely coming from the master cylinder. And the clutch pedal assembly return spring is not binding….
I’ve decided to just buy a master cylinder rebuild kit for 20 bucks and hope it fixes the problem.
The problem is definitely coming from the master cylinder. And the clutch pedal assembly return spring is not binding….
I’ve decided to just buy a master cylinder rebuild kit for 20 bucks and hope it fixes the problem.
The clevis pin moves freely and isn’t binding.
That thread sounds similar but I’m getting varying clutch pedal pressures along with this pop which is what makes it annoying.
The clevis pin moves freely and isn’t binding.
That thread sounds similar but I’m getting varying clutch pedal pressures along with this pop which is what makes it annoying.
Thanks for the replies.
That FSM is the exact same one I’m working with. Doesnt really show how to adjust the pushrod. I tried the lithium grease today and it helped with a squeak noise I was having but the Pop is still there.Thanks for the replies.
That FSM is the exact same one I’m working with. Doesnt really show how to adjust the pushrod. I tried the lithium grease today and it helped with a squeak noise I was having but the Pop is still there.I’m pretty interested in this as a side job/hobby and I’d like to get into it slowly. Could you guys that have ventured into this field tell us about how you either go about getting a dealer license? Or maybe how someone like me could sell a few cars to start without breaking (any/many) laws? Personally I’m thinking about buying a few older cars that I wouldnt mind owning if I did in fact get over my head. If they sell, great. If not, learning experience I guess.
I’m pretty interested in this as a side job/hobby and I’d like to get into it slowly. Could you guys that have ventured into this field tell us about how you either go about getting a dealer license? Or maybe how someone like me could sell a few cars to start without breaking (any/many) laws? Personally I’m thinking about buying a few older cars that I wouldnt mind owning if I did in fact get over my head. If they sell, great. If not, learning experience I guess.
Hey Eric, I see what you mean in the picture. Honestly I can’t remember if it was like that in person. From what I recall it looked pretty uniform. You bring up an interesting point on the installation of the carrier and ring. The original Nissan carrier had a tight fit with the ring but this aftermarket Quaife didn’t. In fact I don’t remember having a problem mating the ring to the backing of the Quaife but I did finger tighten the bolts in opposing patterns and then gradually torqued them to spec in increments. At one point it did seem like there was a variation somewhere when I had zero backlash, the gears could spin on majority of the teeth but in a certain section it would bind.
At any rate I installed the diff and it’s VERY quiet now and all the oscillation noises are gone. I do hear a bit of chatter sometimes at 50mph at low throttle position but I’ve attributed it to the polyurethane subframe bushing that I had to replace transmitting more noise through the chassis. Unless you think I should go back into it and reseat the ring gear to the carrier, I’m pretty happy with my first rear end setup. Thanks to everyone who helped out I appreciate it.
Hey Eric, I see what you mean in the picture. Honestly I can’t remember if it was like that in person. From what I recall it looked pretty uniform. You bring up an interesting point on the installation of the carrier and ring. The original Nissan carrier had a tight fit with the ring but this aftermarket Quaife didn’t. In fact I don’t remember having a problem mating the ring to the backing of the Quaife but I did finger tighten the bolts in opposing patterns and then gradually torqued them to spec in increments. At one point it did seem like there was a variation somewhere when I had zero backlash, the gears could spin on majority of the teeth but in a certain section it would bind.
At any rate I installed the diff and it’s VERY quiet now and all the oscillation noises are gone. I do hear a bit of chatter sometimes at 50mph at low throttle position but I’ve attributed it to the polyurethane subframe bushing that I had to replace transmitting more noise through the chassis. Unless you think I should go back into it and reseat the ring gear to the carrier, I’m pretty happy with my first rear end setup. Thanks to everyone who helped out I appreciate it.