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What; I thought my thumb was calibrated. I’ve been told that on a smaller engine 1/4″ is what you should have, or be able to turn the belt no more than 90 degrees.
For the Ignition Timing it is literally identical as to on a Acura Integra. Eric Has a Great Video.
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]sGzxCCaxDjI[/video]
The TDC for the Camshaft is indicated in the photo. It should be relevant as the Cam Shaft Pulley can only go on in one single spot due to the woodruff key.
Thanks Karl;
I didn’t have a scan tool with me so I directly probed the “Pre-Cat/B1S1” O2 sensor today.
At Idle:
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]Gs13NTFR–M[/video]
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At ~2800 RPM:
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]FAy4AIBa3fA[/video]Sorry, what i meant to say was do not do a flush, which is where a machine is hooked up and flushes the system.
A Fill and Drain is safe to do at any time and is reccomended…
I will change my old post to match.
Repairing a Tire with that type of damage, now I know this is not the answer that you want to hear but.
- Very Hokey, Shade Tree Mechanic
- Very Unsave, Especially for a Racing Tire
If its a Automatic Honda; Do Not Flush the fluid, but do a drain & fill with Genuine Honda Fluid (ATF-DW1)
If it is a Manual Honda, I would have it changed with Genuine Honda Fluid (Honda MTF, or GM Syncromesh (if not availible)
Spark Plugs are cheap, I would do them.
Coolant…. Use Either Genuine Honda Type 2 Coolant, or Silicate Free Global Coolant. Any other type of coolant, can and will cause damage to your water pump.
I will also later in the week check the fuel economy again, as I have now gone to All Season Tires, and Have Fixed an Exhaust Leak.
I would add it to the next oil change interval, I personally like to use it with a High Mileage Oil as the oil has a seal conditioner in it already.
AT-105 is a great product, I know of some shops that use it for a temporary fix but it ends up lasting a while. It may get you through till the timing belt change interval.
I have used “Rislone Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repair”; I believe down in the US they call it “Bars Concentrated Rear Main Seal Repair” I have had good luck with this product in the past; used it in my Honda for the Front Crank Seal.
The test was done from cold start, the engine temperature was barely above the cold mark.
No Codes, I also checked the DTC’s and No Codes there either.
Now at 1500rpm (Second Set of Photos)
O2 Sensor B1S1 is reading 0.78, and B1S2 is reading .915; and the Long Term Fuel Trim is -7.8; Short Term Fuel Trim is -5.4
Would that mean the Pre-Cat O2 sensor is seeing a rich fuel mixture?
Ok so here are the live data results, I did fix the exhaust leak before testing.
Thanks for everyone’s help!
Idle
1500 RPM
