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In the US, like the others say. The shop pays for shop tools and chemicals, we take care of the rest. In the dealership I worked in you were allowed to borrow the tool twice. After that you are obligated to buy your own. That is how we dealt with sharing. Mostly in a pinch, we would allow others, however if it became a habit, they needed to step up and get one for themselves. It worked.
Try the Lucas Fuel injector cleaner and conditioner. I ran it in my big truck and saw a huge gain after using it. I was getting about 4 miles to a gallon, then it went up to about 6 miles a gallon. Every week or more I would add another gallon. Loved the results at the pump. It paid for itself in 10 miles honestly.
I tried it in my Mustang. Night and day difference. I had all the new upgrades for the car installed, and it was still not quite right. Fuel mileage and the plugs kept showing lean. So I dumped the required amount in. Boom. Mileage got much better, and the hp came alive. The stuff works great. Although it would not pay for itself to add to every tank. Doing it once every 6 months is a pretty good idea. I truly stand by this product 100%. However when you spend $500 to run your truck a day, and suddenly you can pull nearly or two days of work out of the truck, you know you found the right product. It is for diesel of gas engines.I have seen dyno results in the 661 Hp 546 tq to the rear wheels on these motors. Might be plenty for me.
They are hi flo cats that are on it. Long tube headers as well. I edited the post on that account. I am thinking on an underdrive pulley set up. I plan on pulling the rear axle and putting a 8.8 posi lock rear end in there. Just going to buy a used one most likely. Been studying the effect of SC and Turbos, and most likely I will go with a roots SC. Turbos take to long to make hp for me. I want my torque curve to be at lower rpms. I will get a programmer in the future as well.
I found both at http://www.rpmoutlet.com. The UDP is pricey. The intake kit I would have to call them on. Due to limited stock or they do not want to show how cheap or expensive they are selling them for. Who knows?
I have been looking for UDP and the VAP sounds good as well. Have any links I sure would appreciate it.
The only thing I noticed in the rear is as you are braking up to a stop sign just before you stop there is a drag in the rear. Just feels like a slight shutter. I am thinking it is the rear brakes trying to lock or something. Other than that, it seems to be fine.
I never knew your wheels were moved forward. So I wonder what the reasoning is, and how you pulled it off. I am sure it is in a vid. All my play money comes from art. So I have a lot of art to create to get my mods going. So much I need to do, and on the cheap. This will take a long time. Anyway. Have a great day, and hope your build goes smooth as silk. Maybe concentrate on how awesome it will be when it is done. It is a signature of you. So make it count. Happy trails.
My sorry fleet consist of a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado with a 350 engine that was some how modified prior to me buying it for $700. At this point, the engine is like new still. Runs great never had an issue with it. AC is out. The drivers seat, heck the interior is just nasty. Guy that had is before me did not take care of it. He wanted to go fast (engine mods and a chip installed) great mileage as well I might add. However he really was a slob on the inside of the truck. 212,000 miles. Starts without worry anytime I turn the key.
Next my 01 Mustang LX 3.8 some what modified, Interior and exterior are both not so pretty. The engine took some work, but bow runs fine with ac or without. It handles like a racecar and I am about to make that portion even better. 130K on the car. It is interior wise better than the Chevy, but all the plastic is crap. Where as in the Chevy the plastic is sturdy yet.
Then my 04 Jeep Liberty, inside and out, like new. 180k on the engine, and I have been working on it on a regular basis. First radiator split, then water pump went out. Coil pack shorted out, valve cover gaskets, Idler pulley, and a transmission. Oh, power window regulators decided at the same time to die. Now I am having door locking issues I think I have several solenoids out on the rear gate and passenger front door. Vehicle looks new and drives like new. No rattles. Plastic is all 100% great condition again inside and out.
So if you like working on your vehicles and you thought of what I have here, get a Jeep. They look good forever and love to be revitalized with new engine and tranny parts.I am like you in many respects, I would rather work on my older cars than ever even think about getting a loan. The amount you save in payments, more than makes up for the pains that come with them generally.
I know you already have a motor, and you are most likely about to sink it in there, or do the build video on putting it together. I have seen short clips of said motor but not on yet on the building of it, just a vid of it in dyno config. I am thinking on doing an engine swap on my Mustang, also thinking of saving up and buying an SVO which I fell in love with back when they came out. Handling was great in that car.
The Specs on the SVO are:
Mustang SVO horsepower and torque ratings by year
Year Power Torque
1984 175 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 210 lb·ft (280 N·m) @ 3000 rpm
1985 175 hp (130 kW) @ 4400 rpm 210 lb·ft (280 N·m) @ 3000 rpm
1985.5 205 hp (153 kW) @ 5000 rpm 248 lb·ft (336 N·m) @ 3200 rpm <—- What happened here? Someone got an itch!
1986 200 hp (149 kW) @ 5000 rpm 240 lb·ft (330 N·m) @ 3200 rpm <— Guessing by these stats, the boss did not approve of said itch.Maybe with a bigger turbo, forged internals, that little 4 banger could do something insane.
On my car, if I do not go to the 363 motor I want. I will most likely stick with the 3.8 due to money, and slowly build it up and set it up to receive a M112 lower and upper intake, and of course the M112 to go with it. I like the power from the drop of the pedal upwards. Most likely I would be going with forged internals and pistons. Of course port and polish the heads as well.
Now this is an idea you may use on your Fairmont. I am thinking of lowering the engine by 2 inches or more, and sliding it back another 2 inches or more. Just to improve on my center of gravity, and all that jazz. Also it will help me keep the M112 hidden in what looks like a Mustang LX 3.8 stock sleeper. Which there again is my goal, kinda like yours.
Also, due to your video on subframe connectors. I realized I have the perfect steel laying around here I can make my own with. Then I realized I have some cool T shaped steel that I could use as strut tower braces. Debating on just welding one in the trunk, and then making a bolt mount in the engine bay.
Did you decide, on the internals of your engine? Or did you get a long block? Also I am thinking on going with roller rockers and lifters with my car in the near future I hope. Might have to sell some toys to get the money up for them though. So the debate is on. I might be able to get a newer V8 much cheaper than all the mods I want to do to the V6. I have to do this cheap though. Really cheap. Like hunting a junk yard for modded cars and get the parts I need from them.
I just want to stay in sleeper mode. Anyway, take care and have a good one.Also topics of engine additives what works, what hurts. Ones that would work to clean up the oil passages, and fuel passages.
How to stop throttle’s slow response. Such as you rev an engine, and some instantly drop down to idle. Where as others slowly go down even under braking. My Mustang does this, and it is annoying. I have even heard of cars revving higher than when you pulled your foot off the throttle. Which is pretty dangerous when you are on black ice, or trying to avoid smashing into someone.
No the truck starts and runs fine. In fact great. The thing can sit and sit and I know it will turn over and fire right up for me. I just think it is really odd that the torque on the rocker nuts are so out of whack. One being maybe 15 lbs, and the noise goes away, the next being 30 lbs before the noise goes away. Chilton say just to tighten them down to 30 lbs I think it was. I would have a tapping monster if I did that. Now I adjusted it while the motor was running. I could go back and adjust it via intake side, then exhaust side, then follow the sequence. Which is the typical way of doing it.
Just look for scrap metal yards. Metal Recyclers and so on. We have one here locally. You can also get scrap angle iron metals of nearly every type.
My garage is to small. It is however attached to my house although. It is 21ft x 20 ft. Which is enough room to get a Jeep, Mustang, or a Shortbed Chevy reg. cab in. Only 2 at a time. When the cars are in here I have about 4 ft max I would say between their bumpers and the wall. You can open one door all the way easy on either car. So you can use this as the bare minimum for a garage. I have work benches and tool boxes up on the back wall. Working in a dealer with 60 other mechanics, we had tons of room. I think out shop was about 100 x 200 or greater in size. So this all depends on how many cars you have in the garage. In the dealership we had about 30-35 ft by 14 ft per vehicle I would guess. Which gave us room for most any vehicle. We all had at least one hoist, and one open bay. We all also had enough room for tools and equipment up against the wall. The roof was about 20 ft high. If you have a 15 foot roof you should have no issues hoisting anything.
Put your free hand on the hoist or lift so you have a physical reference as to how high it is. Take off baseball hats. They often blind you field of view for the lift. Yes you can screw your neck and back up bad from hitting the hoist to hard. Easier to get a hand on it for reference sake. When both hands are full. Duck way more than you would normally. Lastly, slow down and be careful. Sitting home, or in a hospital bed does not pay the bills.