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Well so far the P0457 (gas cap) hasn’t come back but I did get a P0455 which is a “gross” leak. I cleared that too and I’m waiting to see which (if either) comes back. I looked under the car and I couldn’t see anything out of order as far as the fuel lines or tank or what have you. I found a post online that pointed to the vapor mgmt valve….
Anyways, I just ran an OBD test on it with my ELM 327 and the results are attached in pdf format. Do any of the numbers raise a red flag?
I very much appreciate all the feedback and comments folks.Regards,
Ira
Well so far the P0457 (gas cap) hasn’t come back but I did get a P0455 which is a “gross” leak. I cleared that too and I’m waiting to see which (if either) comes back. I looked under the car and I couldn’t see anything out of order as far as the fuel lines or tank or what have you. I found a post online that pointed to the vapor mgmt valve….
Anyways, I just ran an OBD test on it with my ELM 327 and the results are attached in pdf format. Do any of the numbers raise a red flag?
I very much appreciate all the feedback and comments folks.Regards,
Ira
Thanks Dreamer. Got the stuff to fix it. I’ll do it tomorrow. Just thought I’d ask about the bypass mod first to see if anyone had actually done it.
Problem solved everybody. Before I go on let me just say thanks for all your help. I took it to a mechanic for a full diagnostic and he confirmed that there were no vacuum leaks. He also found the misfire was being caused by a loose connector on the injector (under the UIM!!!!) I would’ve never found that. I’m so glad I didn’t break down and buy that ignition coil! NOW SHE IDLES AND RUNS LIKE A DREAM!!!
Hi all. It’s been a few weeks but the rough idle returned with P0171 and P0301. I got the MAF sensor cleaner and did that – no improvement. I got an ELM 327 scantool to retrieve the freeze frame data which is posted below.
P0301 IS THE DTC THAT CAUSED THIS FREEZE FRAME DATA TO BE STORED
CYLINDER 1 MISFIRE DETECTED
FUEL SYSTEM 1 STATUS CLOSED LOOP CONTROL USING OXYGEN SENSOR – NORMAL
CALCULATED LOAD 76.5%
COOLANT TEMPERATURE 85 Deg C 185 Deg F
SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM BANK 1 8.59% RICH (+)
LONG TERM FUEL TRIM BANK 1 15.63% RICH (+)
SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM BANK 2 4.69% RICH (+)
LONG TERM FUEL TRIM BANK 2 7.03% LEAN (-)
FUEL PRESSURE NOT AVAILABLE
ENGINE SPEED 1954.50 RPM
VEHICLE SPEED 46 KMH 29MPHI don’t know anything about fuel trims yet. The s/w is EasyOBD II ver. 2.4 (no datalogging). I never found a vacuum leak and I’m still thinking the coil pack may need to be replaced. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Thanks Dreamer. The PB test on the Vulcan’s not as easy as the car in the vid but I have some HV gloves in the event that I do attempt it. Already did the spray test for vac leaks. I’ll call a few shops / mechanics and see about the proper ignition test before I take any chances.
I bought an ELM327 Scantool (V1.4) on Ebay. Just got it yesterday and it works well. Gives codes, can clear codes, live sensor data, speed / distance data, freeze frame data and has the ability to log data with a $20 software upgrade. It works well with Windows 7 and was about $18 new on ebay.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Ah well even thought you say you don’t need antifreeze you do as it does more than just prevent freezing it also lubricates the system as well as rust prevention. The fact that you’ve run for long enough on straight water could mean that you really are full of rust which will possibly give false readings to the coolant temp as well as clog up key passaged in the system, you might consider having it flushed and filled with coolant.
Didn’t say water, I said I run 100% coolant. It also has rust inhibitors as you mentioned. The cooling system damage was done well before 2009 when I got the car. I did a chemical flush with Prestone radiator flush and 100% distilled water already like 3 weeks ago. Flushed and backflushed the heater core with tap water and blew it all out with forced air before reconnecting it. Replaced heater hose assembly as it was leaking / corroded. It was beautiful while it lasted. Cleaned coolant reservoir with brake parts cleaner and coffee beans. I’m considering doing the flush / reservoir cleaning again since the reservoir walls are rusted up again.
I’m just trying to mitigate further damage and get the most out of it that I can. Thanks.