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Thanks guys. I’ll keep you updated.
The 31 mpg was when I would drive from IL to PA, so ~500 mile trip. That was a rare trip.
The 22 mpg is what I get on my normal commute to work. I live in Houston where we average 12 hours a year below freezing temperatures, so my car doesn’t need to warm up. I start the car in the morning and drive immediately to work.
Thanks guys. I’ll keep you updated.
The 31 mpg was when I would drive from IL to PA, so ~500 mile trip. That was a rare trip.
The 22 mpg is what I get on my normal commute to work. I live in Houston where we average 12 hours a year below freezing temperatures, so my car doesn’t need to warm up. I start the car in the morning and drive immediately to work.
Eric,
What seals are you talking about on the top tank? Do you mean where plastic on the top part of the radiator seals to the aluminum part of the radiator?
Does this still mean that the radiator will need to be replaced?
This isn’t a problem with my car. These are two subjects that I do not have a rational way to diagnose. This seems to pop up on OBD1 accords, where you cant connect a scanner to read sensor data without some expensive scanner.
I was wondering if the experienced techs on here would say something like, start leaning towards a fuel delivery problem, spark problem, etc…. for scenarios #1 and/or #2. I hope this makes sense.
On the 97 accords you can short the blue two pin electrical connector under the glove box using a piece of wire. Then turn the key to the II position and don’t try to start the car. The check engine light will flash the ECU codes, the D4 light will flash the TCU codes.
The 97 is OBD2, but still has the connector to short like the OBD1 accords.
Take a close look at the PCB that is faulty. I always thought that maybe bad solder joints could cause this problem. Then doing the solder joint would fix it. It would be the same as fixing the main fuel relay. Eric has a video on the MFR. Let us know if a solder joint looks like it is bad.
I am confused by your test results, so I would start over on the electrical tests. Turn the multimeter to the 20V range. Test the battery voltage to make sure your volt meter is working properly. Touch the red lead on the meter to the + post of the battery (black ead on meter to – post of battery. You should be reading around 12V.
Next, unplug the electrical connector(s) to the distributor. Turn the key to the II position. Touch red volt meter lead to the blk/yel wire going to the distributor. Touch the black volt meter lead to a valve cover bolt (a good ground). Do you have 12V on that wire?
Turn off key in the car. Plug in the connectors to the distributor. Remove distributor cap. Turn key back to II position. Test for voltage on the blk/yel wire that plugs into the ignition control module using the valve cover bolt as a ground. Also test for 12V on the blk/yel wire on the coil using the valve cover bolt as a ground. Let us know if you find 12V on those wires.
Some pistons are cast with four imprints making it look like marks from the pistons hitting the valves. Not sure if the Nissan engines are like this.
More importantly, are the valves bent?
Some pistons are cast with four imprints making it look like marks from the pistons hitting the valves. Not sure if the Nissan engines are like this.
More importantly, are the valves bent?
Eric has a video on compression testing that you should check out.
The increased reading with the addition of oil suggests that this is a problem with the rings or the bore. I don’t think a valve problem would change by adding some oil to the cylinder. He can pull of the valve cover to inspect if something is up with the valve movement on cylinder 3.
A leak down test will provide more information how what is causing the low compression and should be done to properly diagnose.
Your car has only one O2 sensor. Accords started having two O2 sensors in 95 for the V6 and 96 for the 4-cylinder.
There are several codes for the O2 sensor for different problems with the sensor. One code is for the internal heater of the sensor. The other code is something wrong with the signal from the O2 sensor.
Did the check engine light turn on after this happened or did the D4 or S light start flashing? If so, short the service connector to check for codes.
You can also try to set the cruise control. If the cruise control works, then the VSS is likely working. I think you have to be going over 30 or 35 mph to set the cruise control.
All three codes are pointing towards a problem with the O2 sensor or the wiring. I would check the wiring first.
I would make sure that the O2 sensor is still plugged in. If it is, unplug the O2 sensor and see if there is any oil or corrosion on the pins in the electrical connector. There are some tests you can do on the oxygen sensor if you have a volt meter. Check for any damaged wiring on the sensor or the harness.
The emissions numbers are likely related to these codes. Once you eliminate the codes, then you can analyze the emisisons.
FYI, high NOx levels by itself is typically due to clogged EGR ports on the intake manifold. Google T2T013.pdf and you will find a good procedure on how this is done on a 90-93 accord. The first hit called TSB 013 on the tegger.com site (an excellent site for general honda diagnostics) is what you want to download. Diagnose those codes before doing this.