Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
The thing is how do you tell a pal “your car is crap” when she tells you I love my Maisie.. I can’t bring myself to do it.
:unsure:
JaneThe thing is how do you tell a pal “your car is crap” when she tells you I love my Maisie.. I can’t bring myself to do it.
:unsure:
JaneI know what you mean about Renault’s. My pal has a Clio, who designed this car? The ABS ECU is under the cup holder… a spill later and the ABS goes crazy. I had to design a PCB and eprom just to reset the unit after washing off what seems to be coke from the internals with trichloroethylene.
Jane 🙂
I know what you mean about Renault’s. My pal has a Clio, who designed this car? The ABS ECU is under the cup holder… a spill later and the ABS goes crazy. I had to design a PCB and eprom just to reset the unit after washing off what seems to be coke from the internals with trichloroethylene.
Jane 🙂
Here’s a great tip if you are not sure if a rusty bolt is going to come free.
I made one of these last month from an old strut piston. Its an old idea from my grandfathers day as engineer on the flying Scotsman.
Might just save you having grief in future.
Jane 😉Here’s a great tip if you are not sure if a rusty bolt is going to come free.
I made one of these last month from an old strut piston. Its an old idea from my grandfathers day as engineer on the flying Scotsman.
Might just save you having grief in future.
Jane 😉The problem experienced with the U bolts, can be caused by any one or more of the following…
Poor quality steel Clamp and or Nuts. Using the wrong size or type of steel.
Metal fatigue. Can happen rarely to even new U Clamps when the steel was bent when cold.
Too tight, bolt already over stressed causing is to snap under load.
Too loose, causing it to slip under load.A good example of this situation caused a pilots window to be blown out of its frame in flight. Here, there are 700 small HT steel bolts holding the window in place. This nearly ended in disaster. Why? the Engineer used a box of bolts that looked the same as the old ones. These bolts though were slightly thinner and unlike the old ones he replaced not high tensile steel.
I recall my dad telling me about an 12 axle crane that he was called out to fix, in -40 C mountain road. Though the breakdown truck we had could lift 100 tons there was no way to lift this 300 ton monster. So it had to be fixed where it was on a busy road. This caused a 50 mile tail back on the road. The Cops were furious. All U bolts on the offside sets of springs had snapped. It was found out that the mechanic from a different shop had used the burner to bend the saddle bolts to get them to ‘fit’; this changed the properties of the metal in the process. One giant pot hole plus the freezing weather and these U bolts gave up. Instead of holding, the bolts stretched bent out of shape and stripped their threads. The mechanic who did this, in taking short cuts; ended up in jail for three months. Luckily no one was killed, this time!
Hope you found this interesting
JaneThe problem experienced with the U bolts, can be caused by any one or more of the following…
Poor quality steel Clamp and or Nuts. Using the wrong size or type of steel.
Metal fatigue. Can happen rarely to even new U Clamps when the steel was bent when cold.
Too tight, bolt already over stressed causing is to snap under load.
Too loose, causing it to slip under load.A good example of this situation caused a pilots window to be blown out of its frame in flight. Here, there are 700 small HT steel bolts holding the window in place. This nearly ended in disaster. Why? the Engineer used a box of bolts that looked the same as the old ones. These bolts though were slightly thinner and unlike the old ones he replaced not high tensile steel.
I recall my dad telling me about an 12 axle crane that he was called out to fix, in -40 C mountain road. Though the breakdown truck we had could lift 100 tons there was no way to lift this 300 ton monster. So it had to be fixed where it was on a busy road. This caused a 50 mile tail back on the road. The Cops were furious. All U bolts on the offside sets of springs had snapped. It was found out that the mechanic from a different shop had used the burner to bend the saddle bolts to get them to ‘fit’; this changed the properties of the metal in the process. One giant pot hole plus the freezing weather and these U bolts gave up. Instead of holding, the bolts stretched bent out of shape and stripped their threads. The mechanic who did this, in taking short cuts; ended up in jail for three months. Luckily no one was killed, this time!
Hope you found this interesting
JaneThough, I use my torque wrenches a lot, there are occasions when experience is all that’s needed. Things like jubilee clips, car body parts screws etc. As for using a pipe(Especially useful to female mechanics)… Using plenty penetrating oil in the thread and when the air impact wrench just won’t shift it. its best used only for removing things like rusty, stubborn, lorry wheel nuts, I always tighten with one of three torque wrenches, 3/8 drive 0.01-80 lbs/foot; 1/2 drive 20-180 lbs/foot: and 1″ drive 100-650 lbs/foot. Time is money in any shop and sometimes torquing everything would cost too much money. ‘Torquing up’ is an old art in which they used to… “use different lengths on a graduated bar with notches in it, and a 10 lb weight on a cord…” thanks to accurate torque wrenches we no longer use the old method. Some of the better air ratchets have a torque setting built in, saving time. For small bolts, I use a 90 degree, cordless drill with torque settings. This saves time on assembly. Things like engine guards etc are easily put on with a cordless drill. Gravity is busy trying to drop it out. The speed of the drill, means you don’t have to hold to it very long before the bolts are holding it. Things in mechanical sections need more attention though. The drill gets it nearly there you must though finish with a manual torque wrench. (not for con-rod end caps or crank caps which must follow a special method)
hope this helps..
JaneThough, I use my torque wrenches a lot, there are occasions when experience is all that’s needed. Things like jubilee clips, car body parts screws etc. As for using a pipe(Especially useful to female mechanics)… Using plenty penetrating oil in the thread and when the air impact wrench just won’t shift it. its best used only for removing things like rusty, stubborn, lorry wheel nuts, I always tighten with one of three torque wrenches, 3/8 drive 0.01-80 lbs/foot; 1/2 drive 20-180 lbs/foot: and 1″ drive 100-650 lbs/foot. Time is money in any shop and sometimes torquing everything would cost too much money. ‘Torquing up’ is an old art in which they used to… “use different lengths on a graduated bar with notches in it, and a 10 lb weight on a cord…” thanks to accurate torque wrenches we no longer use the old method. Some of the better air ratchets have a torque setting built in, saving time. For small bolts, I use a 90 degree, cordless drill with torque settings. This saves time on assembly. Things like engine guards etc are easily put on with a cordless drill. Gravity is busy trying to drop it out. The speed of the drill, means you don’t have to hold to it very long before the bolts are holding it. Things in mechanical sections need more attention though. The drill gets it nearly there you must though finish with a manual torque wrench. (not for con-rod end caps or crank caps which must follow a special method)
hope this helps..
JaneGreat to see another girl on the forum. I see you like classic cars too?
My own car is a convertible Mercedes Benz sports car. I’m not in your locality though, I’m based in Scotland. So where the best place to drive along in NZ in your opinion?Jane :cheer:
Great to see another girl on the forum. I see you like classic cars too?
My own car is a convertible Mercedes Benz sports car. I’m not in your locality though, I’m based in Scotland. So where the best place to drive along in NZ in your opinion?Jane :cheer:
I have a 170 Mercedes Benz (SLK), which is 13 years old. I thought about replacing it with the new version. Probably as my friends have new cars. So off I went to a local Mercedes dealer. I parked outside next to a new one. Mr sales guy came out asking can I help? what they really means is… can I take away $98169.50 of your cash. Anyway, as he ran through the features of the New SLK… it’s got a new Eco 2L engine that is 165 horsepower madam and can get you to 60MPH in under 7.5 seconds! I look at my old Manual SLK and thought wait a minute, my old car has 370 horsepower and gets to 60 around the 4.5 seconds. No sale! :ohmy: More the new car has an automatic gearbox. Which equals slow take off and is according to the reviews: easily broken.
Are the latest cars better? It seems not!
I have a 170 Mercedes Benz (SLK), which is 13 years old. I thought about replacing it with the new version. Probably as my friends have new cars. So off I went to a local Mercedes dealer. I parked outside next to a new one. Mr sales guy came out asking can I help? what they really means is… can I take away $98169.50 of your cash. Anyway, as he ran through the features of the New SLK… it’s got a new Eco 2L engine that is 165 horsepower madam and can get you to 60MPH in under 7.5 seconds! I look at my old Manual SLK and thought wait a minute, my old car has 370 horsepower and gets to 60 around the 4.5 seconds. No sale! :ohmy: More the new car has an automatic gearbox. Which equals slow take off and is according to the reviews: easily broken.
Are the latest cars better? It seems not!
