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Yes it is a coil pack, which Is why I was baffled. There’s a way to test it and I’m sure ill get into the o2 sensor tomorrow also.
Thank you, you have eliminated my main problem that always had me stranded on the side of the road.
Clint
Yes it is a coil pack, which Is why I was baffled. There’s a way to test it and I’m sure ill get into the o2 sensor tomorrow also.
Thank you, you have eliminated my main problem that always had me stranded on the side of the road.
Clint
According to the Chilton, code 03 indicates Distributor (G1 Signal), and the malfunction could be a broken wire or a short circuit. Code 17 indicates a Heated Oxygen sensor, malfunctions being “The heated sensor output does not change from 0.55V 20 seconds after engine at 1,500 RPM”
According to the Chilton, code 03 indicates Distributor (G1 Signal), and the malfunction could be a broken wire or a short circuit. Code 17 indicates a Heated Oxygen sensor, malfunctions being “The heated sensor output does not change from 0.55V 20 seconds after engine at 1,500 RPM”
Alrighty. Pulled the codes & came back with a 03 & 17. Which are Distributor (G1) & Heated 0xygen sensor.
Alrighty. Pulled the codes & came back with a 03 & 17. Which are Distributor (G1) & Heated 0xygen sensor.
Replaced the relay, and so far so good! Drove it for 10 minutes or so and no stalling. Parked, shut it off, and it started. Will let you guys know what happens in the upcoming days.
Thank you, you have truly been a help!
ClintReplaced the relay, and so far so good! Drove it for 10 minutes or so and no stalling. Parked, shut it off, and it started. Will let you guys know what happens in the upcoming days.
Thank you, you have truly been a help!
ClintYes I saw the EEC relay in there. Tested it & as the fuel pump relay was, it doesn’t always come back with continuity. I’ll have that replaced within the hour. Could that be the main problem?
And yss, the Chilton said I could pull the codes with the meter, which I have. I just have no clue on how to do that.
ThanksYes I saw the EEC relay in there. Tested it & as the fuel pump relay was, it doesn’t always come back with continuity. I’ll have that replaced within the hour. Could that be the main problem?
And yss, the Chilton said I could pull the codes with the meter, which I have. I just have no clue on how to do that.
ThanksRelay wasn’t the problem. Replaced it today and was good. No stalling as of yet. But just went to leave and the truck wouldn’t start. It cranks but no start. I’m completely baffled. I’m almost starting to believe there may be a short somewhere from the fuse box to the pump? Or from the fuse box to the wiring harness?
By replacing the relay my check engine light doesn’t come on immediately like it was, but it does after a few miles of driving. Do any of you happen to know how to pull the codes without a reader? Such as the jumper method? I followed Eric’s video on it (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8M5BaAa6tCM) But the method is for honda’s. there isn’t that plug under the dash on my truck as it was on the Honda. I guess there are not any mechanics around here that have OBD1 readers, and both auto parts stores don’t carry them.
Also, when I turn the key to the on position, should I be able to feel that relay click? I’m not feeling a click or hearing any sound. The fuel pump isn’t priming either, which is why I’m starting to think about a short in a wire.
Thanks,
ClintRelay wasn’t the problem. Replaced it today and was good. No stalling as of yet. But just went to leave and the truck wouldn’t start. It cranks but no start. I’m completely baffled. I’m almost starting to believe there may be a short somewhere from the fuse box to the pump? Or from the fuse box to the wiring harness?
By replacing the relay my check engine light doesn’t come on immediately like it was, but it does after a few miles of driving. Do any of you happen to know how to pull the codes without a reader? Such as the jumper method? I followed Eric’s video on it (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8M5BaAa6tCM) But the method is for honda’s. there isn’t that plug under the dash on my truck as it was on the Honda. I guess there are not any mechanics around here that have OBD1 readers, and both auto parts stores don’t carry them.
Also, when I turn the key to the on position, should I be able to feel that relay click? I’m not feeling a click or hearing any sound. The fuel pump isn’t priming either, which is why I’m starting to think about a short in a wire.
Thanks,
ClintSorry for the delayed response.
I went to two mechanics here in town and they told me they did not have the equipment to pull the codes, as its “Pre ObD2”. I’ve been searching the Internet & reading a Chilton front to back looking for a way to pull these codes by myself.
It stalled again today and after I got it home I decided to look into the simple fixes, before going drastic. I focused my attention on the fuel pump relay, under the hood. Tested it, and it didn’t always come back with continuity. So before replacing it, I wanted to be 100% sure it was bad. Later on my truck just wouldn’t start. It would crank, but not start. So I swapped the relay for the fuel pump with the headlights. And what do you know? It started! Swapped them back to original, and it didn’t start!
On a related note – the filter was a tad clogged, so I replaced that.
So what do you guys think? Could this relay have been the cause the entire time?
Thank you guys, you truly have been great support.
Clint