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I just picked up a Launch Pad II x-431 and it has been great. I got the docking station with it which helps keeping it charged. 85% of the time it stays in the docking station and I work it from there, right next to my laptop on my toolbox. The other tech has a new Snap On Verus Edge which is a nice machine but way overpriced. He had to borrow mine to do PATS programming on a Mazda the other day so they all lack something. Having a few in your arsenal is the only solution. My x-431 Pad II cost me $2500. His Verus Edge cost him $8500. 3 weeks after I bought mine he said to me “I should have just bought one of those”. LOL Yep. Especially considering in 4-5 years you will probably be looking at a newer one.
I have a Tech 2, the Launch, an Autel MaxiDas, a DrewTech Mongoose Pro for Toyota/Lexus running Toyota Techstream 100% and a few handheld ones I use for quick I/M monitor checks and such. For a scope I have a Snap On Vantage pro I picked up used for $450. Looking at getting an Autologic for the Euro stuff but the Launch does really well with them. Even the Snap-On dealer said the Launch was superior with the Euro stuff.
Since it runs on starting fluid, you know you have 1) spark and 2) compression. What you need to check next is fuel pressure.
I would be looking at the fuel pressure regulator for a leaking diaphragm. Pull the vacuum line off (engine running)of it and see if fuel comes out of the regulator vacuum port. There should not be any fuel coming out of there.
Another way to test it is with a handheld vacuum pump. With the engine off, remove the vacuum line from the regulator and attach the line from your pump. Pump it down and see if it holds a vacuum. If it doesn’t hold a vacuum, you have a ruptured diaphragm.
I would back-probe the clutch wire with a DVOM (multimeter) and see if the voltage signal itself is cycling like it’s supposed to. If it is, then there is something mechanically wrong with your clutch. If the voltage signal is not cycling, then you have an electrical issue. A likely cause of this would be a stuck closed A/C compressor relay. That would be step one.
The pressure switch could also cause this and is located on the driver side on a line coming out of the condenser.
[quote=”Jasonw1178″ post=167997]Looks like a DeWalt with red trim, which I’m pretty sure it is. Yes they have come a long long way over the past couple years.[/quote]
LMAO NOT a DeWalt. This is a real tool. I’ve got Snap On’s mighty-est , Ir’s big dog and this guy (with the ring) and this M18 Fuel is no kidding the strongest in my box. It rivals my IR 3/4″ gun.
Get a M18 1/2″ and 3/8″ FUEL and be done.
I have them all and have been using them day in/out for 2 years without issue.
Break Honda crank bolts loose like buttuh! My Snap-On MG725 doesn’t even budge them.
Depends on how the tech is paid and how much the tool cost and if you can get the tool in a timely manner.
If it’s a specialty J tool (tool made specifically for auto manufacturers for a certain procedure and there is no alternative) and I don’t have it, I make the shop pay for it or refer the job to the Dealer.
If it’s a simple sub $75 tool, and the job pays enough, I’ll buy it myself. Cool thing about my shop is we can buy tools at cost and apply them to a monthly employee bill which comes out of the next big check (commission) so you don’t have to purchase out of pocket.
Shop equipment like jacks, trans jacks, jackstands, oil caddies, A “decent” Scantool most shops here in the USA will provide.
The rest is up to the tech.
I work on all makes and models so my tool inventory is huge. The thing is, if and when I leave, those go with me so it’s fine with me that I provide my own tools. It’s expensive but you’ll always have it because it’s yours. And yes, I hate sharing too. LOL
If you’re a new tech to the dealership (low on the totem pole) that’s probably why you’re getting so much of it. LOL
Yes warranty work sucks but it’s what you will do a lot of until you prove yourself to the shop foreman or get in “the clique”.
I just did a performance application trans build (drag racing / Powerglide) and a trick I use is to use some florescent engine oil dye when filling the trans (just a little goes a long way – a capful is all you need).
Look on alldata for the spec quantity and fill to that. Run the trans through all gears and recheck. The fluid shows up a lot better with the dye in it on a stainless dipstick that way.