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Sounds like you have a bad wheel speed sensor. Without a proper scan-tool to watch data from the wheels, it will be hard to pinpoint which wheel has the issue. It’s a very common symptom on late model GM ABS equipped vehicles,
What he said. LOL
In your first picture, push back that bushing the arrow is pointing at and the caliper will drop down and into place.
Yeah, I do them “in-car” too even before the tech angle but very carefully watching the final angles with a (less accurate but good enough) angle gauge.
[quote=”BubbaGarage” post=168999]This shows the repair being done with head removed. Time is saved by nkt removing head so that is what I am looking for. The set you listed does not convince me it has everything needed for leaving head on for repair.[/quote]
Why? I have done it to hundreds of plug holes in Triton motors over the past 10 years or so. It’s a pretty simple process. Put the cylinder at 1/2 the way up on the compression stroke. Drill and tap the hole for the heli-coil and install heli-coil. Blow out cylinder with compressed air and profit.
The kit you are probably talking about id the Time-Sert kit which is nice but is used exactly the same way.
[quote=”gmule” post=168868][quote=”ialmanza4″ post=168765]I have tools coming in every Mon/Wed/Fri. I’ll chime in once in a while lol.
The last major purchase was this guy:
Snap On 3/8 drive Techangle Digital Torque Wrench. Love it.[/quote]
You are going to love that even more if you do any Subaru heads. It saves so much time[/quote]
Yup. I’m programming it as I go. So far Subaru, Honda 1.5/1.6 and 2.3’s, Gm 3100 and 3800 and 5.3/6.0 and Ford 4.6 and 5.4 heads. The next time I do those will be so sweet.
$500? Where did you see that? The Lisle kit works fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-65000-Spark-Repair-Aluminum/dp/B0045CUNT2
I think I understand what you’re trying to say but you said you had already pulled the upstream O2 out of the exhaust leaving the bung open and it still would not accelerate past 3500 rpm. This is why I suggested disconnecting it. It may be a bad O2 and falsely reading rich.
The fact that it takes so long to accelerate to 3500 rpm and wont fo beyond that says to me that you have a restricted exhaust. The rich condition also says this. Thus would also cause misfires due to excessive back pressure. It doesn’t make any sense that when you pulled the upstream o2 out that it didn’t run any better. Let me ponder this a bit.
[quote=”speedsterheitman” post=168768]I understand. No, this is all I have as of now. I’m stumped. If unplugging the upstream O2 solved the issue, I would not have had any idea if the converter was super clogged. [/quote]
Confused by this. By unplugging the O2 I mean disconnect the electrical connector at the O2 not physically removing it from the exhaust bung. Have you done this?
The common issues for your symptoms are bad upstream O2 (biased lean) leaky regulator and exhaust restriction. Less likely and harder to test without a scan tool are leaky injectors. Your fuel pressure could also be an issue. It’s hard to say. Any other info?
I have tools coming in every Mon/Wed/Fri. I’ll chime in once in a while lol.
The last major purchase was this guy:
Snap On 3/8 drive Techangle Digital Torque Wrench. Love it.
From abuse on the daily grind, I think the Matco pinless impact wobbles are the strongest of them all hands down (even Snap-On). I have never broken one and I’m still using the same ones I bought 11 years ago. They are not cheap but once a year Matco will do a buy-one get-one free deal. If you buy the 1/2″ drive set they throw in the 3/8″ drive set. The 3/8″ drive set is about $420.
I have broken a Cornwel, Mac and a Snap-On. The GP impact wobbles I use are of the 1/4″ drive variety so breaking them really isn’t an issue.
It is a bit high but I wouldn’t think it would cause that much of a rich condition where the PCM can’t correct it by injector PWM. Have you verified the upstream O2 operation? Unplug the upstream O2 electrical connector and then go drive it. This will cause the PCM to fall back on stored data and not use the O2 for air/fuel correction. If it drives ok, I’d say you have a bad O2.