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[color=#00ff00]Hey Eric,
[size=4]What fuel will you be running on the Fairmont and will it be E-85 compatible?
Thanks!
ialmanza4 from Salt Lake City, UT[/size]
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https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL619-AutoLink-OBDII-Scan/dp/B0091DJWV0
I have one and it works well. I use it for just checking codes and doing I/M readiness checks so I don’t need to bring out my scan tools or waste time doing an emissions test where the vehicle is “Not Ready”.
You need to pull the air bag and steering wheel and clock spring assembly to access the 3 bolts for the multi-function switch.
If you are a DIY, you probably should send this one to a shop as the tools needed are special and you need to know what you are doing around an airbag and clock-spring.
Check the connectors for each DRL.
On Chevy’s they get hot and melt the connector due to loose fitting terminals. If your connectors look at all melted, call the local parts store and get some new pigtails for them. This is a new connector and two wires which need to be wired in. Soldering and heat shrink is best. Also use 4114K (long life bulbs).
Does your car have ABS and when you cycle the key to on does the ABS light come on?
If not, check the main power feed/ground connector to the ABS Modulator. This should be the connector with heavy gauge wires . Makes sure it’s properly seated and clicked in to position.
[quote=”thalo” post=169190]
Things I remember the mechanics did not do.
They installed d cap etc but they did not stick the two pins in my thing port to make ecu the check engine light come on etc so im not sure if they has somthing to do with my problem?. [/quote]If the mechanic did not jump the SCS connector and put it it in “check mode” before setting the base timing, I’d have that rechecked. However if they were tapped into the underhood diagnostic connector with something like a MasterTech, I could understand as that tool does this through the scantool.
I believe what the Dealership told the OP was that the airbag/’restraint system (SRS) was not operational and that the OP needed repair before it would work, not that all the airbags and seatbelt explosives were no longer in the vehicle. Kinda shady way to get the OP to fork over money for reopairs (scare tactics) and at $4000 I’d like to know what was malfunctioning.
If I’m incorrect, and you are in-fact missing these SRS components, ask them for an itemized list of what is needed and labor costs. Then post here.
An independent can bleed the ABS system.
You most likely ran the lines dry up to the ABS modulator when the piston popped out.
You need to belled the ABS modulator first before bleeding it downstream so if you don’t have the proper equipment, take it to any indy shop and have them bleed the brakes.