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There is a tensioner in your diagram at the tail end of your arrow. Just use a 3/8 braker bar and it will lossen (see your picture just on the top of the tensioner) the belt and it will slid on with plenty of room.
There is a tensioner in your diagram at the tail end of your arrow. Just use a 3/8 braker bar and it will lossen (see your picture just on the top of the tensioner) the belt and it will slid on with plenty of room.
Removing a pulley in the belt system would I believe make the belt too large so the belt tensioner will be at its last reaches and not get the belt tight. Now the question is how did this effect your belt (ie where was the AC) and/or can you get a smaller belt. Also look at the path of the belt before and after the removal of the AC. Do you now have a situation were the belt makes less contact to the pulley.
Removing a pulley in the belt system would I believe make the belt too large so the belt tensioner will be at its last reaches and not get the belt tight. Now the question is how did this effect your belt (ie where was the AC) and/or can you get a smaller belt. Also look at the path of the belt before and after the removal of the AC. Do you now have a situation were the belt makes less contact to the pulley.
Hi Eric,
You just came up with ideas for a couple great videos. Show me how to use the point thermal tools to diagnose problems, Specifically how do I use it to test a front wheel bearing, I am assuming one going bad will have a different (higher) heat profile. What is the amount of run (drive) time, what are the temperature differentials of the ambient temp and the other bearing, where is the best place to check the temp, will I be able to detect problems before they fail inspection etc.?
The thermal temp tool is one that I have in my toolbox just because the cool factor, low price, and HVAC trouble shooting. I though the cat testing with the thermal temp tool and the scanner was the best video that you did. You made the numbers come out of the scan tools mean something to me and what you did with the temp tool was so informative, because most of the time the sensor is bad and not the system that it is monitoring. My daughter has a Subaru in which I had to do this exact diagnoses and the temp tool will save me from changing the sensors. Is the Subaru notorious for cat problems? Have a friend that had to replace the cat on her Subaru multiple time, not sure it was not being replaced for the core value.
My diagnosis tools consist of Multi meters, scan tool that I usually borrow from Advanced, and now thanks to you (Eric) the thermal sensor.
Always looking forward to your next repair video.
Todd
Hi Eric,
You just came up with ideas for a couple great videos. Show me how to use the point thermal tools to diagnose problems, Specifically how do I use it to test a front wheel bearing, I am assuming one going bad will have a different (higher) heat profile. What is the amount of run (drive) time, what are the temperature differentials of the ambient temp and the other bearing, where is the best place to check the temp, will I be able to detect problems before they fail inspection etc.?
The thermal temp tool is one that I have in my toolbox just because the cool factor, low price, and HVAC trouble shooting. I though the cat testing with the thermal temp tool and the scanner was the best video that you did. You made the numbers come out of the scan tools mean something to me and what you did with the temp tool was so informative, because most of the time the sensor is bad and not the system that it is monitoring. My daughter has a Subaru in which I had to do this exact diagnoses and the temp tool will save me from changing the sensors. Is the Subaru notorious for cat problems? Have a friend that had to replace the cat on her Subaru multiple time, not sure it was not being replaced for the core value.
My diagnosis tools consist of Multi meters, scan tool that I usually borrow from Advanced, and now thanks to you (Eric) the thermal sensor.
Always looking forward to your next repair video.
Todd
The charge is low, not empty. There is a sensor that is looking for a given prsssure to run. I am assuming you used a 12 oz can and that may have not been enough to charge the system. The noise can be lack of oil in the compressor or contaminates. There are other moving parts and some noise in a working system. Also AC system should be run so the oil lubs the system, how long has it not run?
Replace the valve and recharge, put dye in the system to check for leaks. Recharge the system using the temp, high and low pressures. There are chart on the internet look up ‘super cooling’ Also compressure will go on and off depending on the high pressure reading. Look at having the charge done by a cert tech. Getting the right charge in without air is not that easy.
The charge is low, not empty. There is a sensor that is looking for a given prsssure to run. I am assuming you used a 12 oz can and that may have not been enough to charge the system. The noise can be lack of oil in the compressor or contaminates. There are other moving parts and some noise in a working system. Also AC system should be run so the oil lubs the system, how long has it not run?
Replace the valve and recharge, put dye in the system to check for leaks. Recharge the system using the temp, high and low pressures. There are chart on the internet look up ‘super cooling’ Also compressure will go on and off depending on the high pressure reading. Look at having the charge done by a cert tech. Getting the right charge in without air is not that easy.
Your hose is broken, getting this fixed is just part of your problem. AC systems do not like contaminates such as dirt, dust, or even moisture. Having a system open for an extended amount of time and you will have to replace the dryer/filter and I would recomend replacing it before you seal it back up and evacuate and then recharge the system. Depending on contaminates in the system you may have to flush the system. You also might have a block that caused the high side line to blow. If you are not going to fix the system make sure you do something to stop the dirt/dust into the system. Moisture is aready in the system and will have to be boiled out under a vacuum.
You can put the hose on the system, but I would take it in to an AC Tech to get the system recharged because the equipment needed is very expensive and difficult to use correctly. Just tell the Tech what you did to fix the problem and then the Tech can test the joints for leaks. Vacuums are kind of funny because the moisture, oil and even gasket boil off so the vacuum always goes up a little. So on AC system sometimes they will put Nitrogen under pressure to test for leaks.
Good luck
Your hose is broken, getting this fixed is just part of your problem. AC systems do not like contaminates such as dirt, dust, or even moisture. Having a system open for an extended amount of time and you will have to replace the dryer/filter and I would recomend replacing it before you seal it back up and evacuate and then recharge the system. Depending on contaminates in the system you may have to flush the system. You also might have a block that caused the high side line to blow. If you are not going to fix the system make sure you do something to stop the dirt/dust into the system. Moisture is aready in the system and will have to be boiled out under a vacuum.
You can put the hose on the system, but I would take it in to an AC Tech to get the system recharged because the equipment needed is very expensive and difficult to use correctly. Just tell the Tech what you did to fix the problem and then the Tech can test the joints for leaks. Vacuums are kind of funny because the moisture, oil and even gasket boil off so the vacuum always goes up a little. So on AC system sometimes they will put Nitrogen under pressure to test for leaks.
Good luck
There is a new Harbor Feight in Sterling VA. They have that and also has some extended needle nose pliers and surgical pliers.
There is a new Harbor Feight in Sterling VA. They have that and also has some extended needle nose pliers and surgical pliers.
Use one of those reach tools that flex and the three prongs come on when you push the button. Sorry I dont know what it is called but I use it to get fasteners when they drop in bad spots.
Use one of those reach tools that flex and the three prongs come on when you push the button. Sorry I dont know what it is called but I use it to get fasteners when they drop in bad spots.
I am a DIYer so I have a different angle at the Flat Rate System. It is a system to charge you more time then it takes to do the job. If any other profession charged that way they would be in court in a minute – the problem is not that it is flat rate but shops advertise shop hour/rate and charge you inflated hours. I had a friend that had to replace a fuel pump and was told that tank had to be lowered and it would take many hours of shop time, he had the shop manuals and they had that as a correct procedure/time. I told him that it could be done from the top and looked on the internet and found that there was a Panel so he bought the pump and one evening the two of us removed the back seat to get to the panel and replaced the pump in a couple of hours. Total cost $200 dollars for the part. Not bad for 2 DIYers.
I just have a problem on the inflated times. Yes you will get a bad one but then they/shop will say it took X hours. That has stopped because the quotes that were given, they can only go over by a certain purcentage. Now do I beleave that the techs saw that money – I know better. Tipping the mechanic is probably a great idea, but I dont think I have to tip everyone that I do busyness with. I did take a case of beer to a shop that did save me a few bucks.
ERIC your talked about a TDI, there is a GTG Impex TDI Fest in Baltimore MD area May 18. Check website TDIClub for info. Great event for the TDI DiYer, not a lot of wrenching, to big to do alot of that.
Eric you are right that this effects other professions, seen it happen in a commision dentistry shop – not a court issue just state labor people. The one way to make this work is to have a base rate that satisfies the governments and commision on jobs completed. Like changing every system some will make out better and others will lose. The problem that has to be solved is to get the work into the shop and this comes down to trust and fairness.