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Eric, that tool is useless. We have that exact one at work. It’s useless. I work for a landscaping company and have the task of fixing things. Whether it be vehicles, or a post hole digger. Either way, you get the point.
That’s the last tool i’ll even think about picking up. It’s literally useless as you’ve come to discover. I’d return it and get your money back. I actually used it last night to put shocks on one of my buddies jeeps. I didn’t trust that it was tight enough and snugged it up with my Snap On MG725 which i know made them good to go.
For cordless tools so far i’ve bought Milwaukee. I honestly love them.
I have these;
– Milwaukee M18 3/8″ Impact – 166 ft/pounds – (http://www.amazon.com/Bare-Tool-Milwaukee-2651-20-18-Volt-Compact/dp/B001VGQSM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389211040&sr=8-1&keywords=milwaukee+3%2F8+impact)
– Mulwaukee M18 1/2″ Impact – 475 ft/pounds – (http://www.amazon.com/Bare-Tool-Milwaukee-2663-20-18-Volt-Friction/dp/B002AKKJBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1389211399&sr=8-2&keywords=milwaukee+1%2F2+impact)
– Battery – (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-11-1828-LITHIUM-Lithium-ion-Cordless/dp/B001F0QLCA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389212481&sr=8-1&keywords=m18+battery)
– Charger – (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-59-1812-Multi-Voltage-Charger/dp/B007PDBHBG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1389212500&sr=8-6&keywords=m18+battery)Anyways the total investment for both of those tools + 2 batteries + a charger is $507.89. Might seem like a lot but that’s about the price of a single 1/2″ Snap On air impact. (Then you have to buy an air compressor, air lines, etc.)
Both of these use the same battery. I’ve had a lot of success breaking lug nuts with the 3/8″ impact but when i have the 1/2″ one sitting right next to it if i know i have to break a lug nut i just grab that real quick so i don’t strain my 3/8″ one. They both work awesome. The 3/8″ one is perfect for smaller stuff. I find myself using it for just about everything. Super compact and balanced in the hand.
The 1/2″ one is significantly heaver, but then again it packs a significantly harder punch. Works awesome for suspension stuff and lug nuts and axle nuts and everything really. The only thing that managed to hold it up so far was a super rusty leaf spring bolt. Heated it up with an oxy torch until cherry red and the impact breezed it out.
I will give DeWalt credit for their 1/4″ impact. It’s awesome for driving drywall screws. That’s the only thing it’s good for, and for that it works awesome.
I normally don’t get a minute to join in on your discussions Eric, but keep up the videos man. I watch them all. They’re great.
Eric, that tool is useless. We have that exact one at work. It’s useless. I work for a landscaping company and have the task of fixing things. Whether it be vehicles, or a post hole digger. Either way, you get the point.
That’s the last tool i’ll even think about picking up. It’s literally useless as you’ve come to discover. I’d return it and get your money back. I actually used it last night to put shocks on one of my buddies jeeps. I didn’t trust that it was tight enough and snugged it up with my Snap On MG725 which i know made them good to go.
For cordless tools so far i’ve bought Milwaukee. I honestly love them.
I have these;
– Milwaukee M18 3/8″ Impact – 166 ft/pounds – (http://www.amazon.com/Bare-Tool-Milwaukee-2651-20-18-Volt-Compact/dp/B001VGQSM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389211040&sr=8-1&keywords=milwaukee+3%2F8+impact)
– Mulwaukee M18 1/2″ Impact – 475 ft/pounds – (http://www.amazon.com/Bare-Tool-Milwaukee-2663-20-18-Volt-Friction/dp/B002AKKJBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1389211399&sr=8-2&keywords=milwaukee+1%2F2+impact)
– Battery – (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-11-1828-LITHIUM-Lithium-ion-Cordless/dp/B001F0QLCA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1389212481&sr=8-1&keywords=m18+battery)
– Charger – (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-59-1812-Multi-Voltage-Charger/dp/B007PDBHBG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1389212500&sr=8-6&keywords=m18+battery)Anyways the total investment for both of those tools + 2 batteries + a charger is $507.89. Might seem like a lot but that’s about the price of a single 1/2″ Snap On air impact. (Then you have to buy an air compressor, air lines, etc.)
Both of these use the same battery. I’ve had a lot of success breaking lug nuts with the 3/8″ impact but when i have the 1/2″ one sitting right next to it if i know i have to break a lug nut i just grab that real quick so i don’t strain my 3/8″ one. They both work awesome. The 3/8″ one is perfect for smaller stuff. I find myself using it for just about everything. Super compact and balanced in the hand.
The 1/2″ one is significantly heaver, but then again it packs a significantly harder punch. Works awesome for suspension stuff and lug nuts and axle nuts and everything really. The only thing that managed to hold it up so far was a super rusty leaf spring bolt. Heated it up with an oxy torch until cherry red and the impact breezed it out.
I will give DeWalt credit for their 1/4″ impact. It’s awesome for driving drywall screws. That’s the only thing it’s good for, and for that it works awesome.
I normally don’t get a minute to join in on your discussions Eric, but keep up the videos man. I watch them all. They’re great.
I pulled the head off and sent it to a local machine shop. They verified that my head was indeed cracked.
Thankfully for me I caught it early and my oil pressure is still good and my engine bearings aren’t fried.
I cleaned the head off with an angle grinder with like a Brillo pad on it. Worked perfect. I then used brake clean on the head and used a Brillo pad to finish cleaning it off.
When I install the new headgasket should I install it dry or use like a shellac on it?
Any special tips? This is my first time ever taking on something this big.
:cheers:
I pulled the head off and sent it to a local machine shop. They verified that my head was indeed cracked.
Thankfully for me I caught it early and my oil pressure is still good and my engine bearings aren’t fried.
I cleaned the head off with an angle grinder with like a Brillo pad on it. Worked perfect. I then used brake clean on the head and used a Brillo pad to finish cleaning it off.
When I install the new headgasket should I install it dry or use like a shellac on it?
Any special tips? This is my first time ever taking on something this big.
:cheers:
[quote=”gaseousmercury” post=52369]I wouldn’t use putty. I would use teflon tape and then put a light couating of gas grade (yellow color) pipe sealer (pipe dope) over the teflon tape. you can get the pipe dope at any hardware store in the plumbing section.[/quote]
Plumber here.
You’re doing it backwards. Put on the pipe dope/thread sealant and THEN wrap the teflon tape over the top of that. Makes it less messy. This way the teflon tape holds the pipe dope in place and doesn’t make a huge mess all over your hands.
I normally do this when i’m piping in boilers.
Also, try to avoid loosening fittings once you tightened them. It increases your chances of a leak. I normally just manhandle them and crank them around another time.
Another thing – always use two wrenches. If you’re tightening coupling onto a nipple, hold the nipple back with one pipe wrench and then tighten the coupling with another pipe wrench. Keep the wrenches thumb width apart at max. This ensures that you only tighten the coupling and don’t transfer the spin into the nipple and move that around.
Plumbers putty is what you use under sinks and what not. Haha.
[quote=”gaseousmercury” post=52369]I wouldn’t use putty. I would use teflon tape and then put a light couating of gas grade (yellow color) pipe sealer (pipe dope) over the teflon tape. you can get the pipe dope at any hardware store in the plumbing section.[/quote]
Plumber here.
You’re doing it backwards. Put on the pipe dope/thread sealant and THEN wrap the teflon tape over the top of that. Makes it less messy. This way the teflon tape holds the pipe dope in place and doesn’t make a huge mess all over your hands.
I normally do this when i’m piping in boilers.
Also, try to avoid loosening fittings once you tightened them. It increases your chances of a leak. I normally just manhandle them and crank them around another time.
Another thing – always use two wrenches. If you’re tightening coupling onto a nipple, hold the nipple back with one pipe wrench and then tighten the coupling with another pipe wrench. Keep the wrenches thumb width apart at max. This ensures that you only tighten the coupling and don’t transfer the spin into the nipple and move that around.
Plumbers putty is what you use under sinks and what not. Haha.
That’s a Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ 99-04)
I bought two heated power leather seats for my Jeep Cherokee (XJ 84-01) from a junkyard for $30 a seat. It’s a slight modification for them to bolt into an XJ. They will bolt directly into your Jeep. I personally ran a power wire to a relay to a switch and then spliced both the seats together and they work perfectly. Heat & Power both work great in them. You could just use the stock wiring. Probably like a $60-80 fix.
Oh, and with the switch, i put the seat in really really uncomfortable positions then kill the power to them, and explain to new riders that the seat is broken like that. I laugh hysterically when they’re either leaned all the way back in the back seat or jammed up against the dashboard.
That’s a Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ 99-04)
I bought two heated power leather seats for my Jeep Cherokee (XJ 84-01) from a junkyard for $30 a seat. It’s a slight modification for them to bolt into an XJ. They will bolt directly into your Jeep. I personally ran a power wire to a relay to a switch and then spliced both the seats together and they work perfectly. Heat & Power both work great in them. You could just use the stock wiring. Probably like a $60-80 fix.
Oh, and with the switch, i put the seat in really really uncomfortable positions then kill the power to them, and explain to new riders that the seat is broken like that. I laugh hysterically when they’re either leaned all the way back in the back seat or jammed up against the dashboard.