Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
From what you wrote, I don’t belive you had the cylinders at exactly tdc. if the cylinder you where putting air into was at exact tdc, you should not be having an issue with the cylinder turning. if you have the cylinder off a few degrees it will rotate when air is added to it. also need to make sure you are on the right stroke for the sylinder being tested. Eric had a video on how to reach tdc that works a hundred percent of the time for finding tdc. I saw it on you tube. I have used this technique for several years, however he explains it as well as anyone I kknow.I use this technique when I change valve stem seals with the head on the engine, believe me that is not the time to have the engine to rotate.
Good Luck and Keep us posted on your progress.From what you wrote, I don’t belive you had the cylinders at exactly tdc. if the cylinder you where putting air into was at exact tdc, you should not be having an issue with the cylinder turning. if you have the cylinder off a few degrees it will rotate when air is added to it. also need to make sure you are on the right stroke for the sylinder being tested. Eric had a video on how to reach tdc that works a hundred percent of the time for finding tdc. I saw it on you tube. I have used this technique for several years, however he explains it as well as anyone I kknow.I use this technique when I change valve stem seals with the head on the engine, believe me that is not the time to have the engine to rotate.
Good Luck and Keep us posted on your progress.year ,make, model, engine size, and any repair work that has been compleated, then we will be able to talk you through the diagnostic procedures, you will need to get the evidence, you need to find the problem, to repair this vehicle, so it can pass emissions testing. please keep in mine everything on a vehicle can be tested one way or another, and through this testing we can determine what your problem is, and what you will need to do to correct it.
P.S. could you give us the exact wording that the test station used to fail the vehicle. also any codes stored or check engine lights on.year ,make, model, engine size, and any repair work that has been compleated, then we will be able to talk you through the diagnostic procedures, you will need to get the evidence, you need to find the problem, to repair this vehicle, so it can pass emissions testing. please keep in mine everything on a vehicle can be tested one way or another, and through this testing we can determine what your problem is, and what you will need to do to correct it.
P.S. could you give us the exact wording that the test station used to fail the vehicle. also any codes stored or check engine lights on.I suggest you do a compression test.. that will let you know the integrity of the engine. if it passes this teat, then bring the engine cylinder one to tdc on the compression stroke,i/e piston pushing air out of #1 cwhen turning engine over, be sure the piston is at tdc of the compression stroke and set the diatributer with the rotor pointing at the number one position on the dist. after this is done, your engine should be #1 cylinder at tdc, and dist completely mated to the engine block and the rotor pointing to the #1 position on the dist. bolt the dist down but leave loose enough to turn the dist with some resistance to do final adjustment on timing if the engine starts and runs.once completed be sure to tighten dist bold down. please keep posting to let us know how it is going.
I suggest you do a compression test.. that will let you know the integrity of the engine. if it passes this teat, then bring the engine cylinder one to tdc on the compression stroke,i/e piston pushing air out of #1 cwhen turning engine over, be sure the piston is at tdc of the compression stroke and set the diatributer with the rotor pointing at the number one position on the dist. after this is done, your engine should be #1 cylinder at tdc, and dist completely mated to the engine block and the rotor pointing to the #1 position on the dist. bolt the dist down but leave loose enough to turn the dist with some resistance to do final adjustment on timing if the engine starts and runs.once completed be sure to tighten dist bold down. please keep posting to let us know how it is going.
if you know that you have fuel pressure and spark, and the dist is in the right position, you may want to try a compression test to see if maybe the engine has jumped timing. i/e low compression. the main four components for and engine to run is fuel, air, spark, and compression.
Also is there any backfire when the engine is turning over? or does it sound like the engine is free wheeling? what kind of problems did the vehicle exhibit before the repairs?if you know that you have fuel pressure and spark, and the dist is in the right position, you may want to try a compression test to see if maybe the engine has jumped timing. i/e low compression. the main four components for and engine to run is fuel, air, spark, and compression.
Also is there any backfire when the engine is turning over? or does it sound like the engine is free wheeling? what kind of problems did the vehicle exhibit before the repairs?If your satisfied that no vacumm leaks exist, then you may want to look at the emissions control. If this vehicle has and AIR pump on it it could be feeding extra oxygen into the exhaust which would effect the oxgen sensors. if this is happening, it will cause the oxygen sensors to read lean thus causing the engine to run rich. pay particular attention to any solenoids and valveing associated with the AIR system.If any one of these valves or solenoids are malfunctiong it could be introducing air into the system at the wrong time
If your satisfied that no vacumm leaks exist, then you may want to look at the emissions control. If this vehicle has and AIR pump on it it could be feeding extra oxygen into the exhaust which would effect the oxgen sensors. if this is happening, it will cause the oxygen sensors to read lean thus causing the engine to run rich. pay particular attention to any solenoids and valveing associated with the AIR system.If any one of these valves or solenoids are malfunctiong it could be introducing air into the system at the wrong time
It sounds like you have a couple of issues that may not be related. The lites that come on when you try to brighten with the light switch, the portion of the light switch that brightens the interior lites is a ground circuit that runs through a varible resistor, as you move the thumb wheel up or turn the knob the ground resitance is reduced and thus the lites become brighter. at the end of the travel of the lite switch variable resistor is a terminable that is full ground and is attached to the interior lighting. turning the knob or thum wheel to its brightest point will ground the interior courtesy light circuit,and cause the interior lites to come on. I would begin my inspection with checking this switch.
as for the lites going off when you touch the equalizer buttons, either the bulbs are loose or a bad ground or poor electrical connection in the circuit that feed the lites would be what I would check first.
ON the tail lite issue you may want to start by pulling out the bulbs on the side that is showing a fast clicking, I supect that one or more of the tail lite bulbs has shorted internally. when you pull the bulbs out you should be able to tell rather quickly if this is the case. If that passes then check the turn signal flasher. a weak flasher could cause the same problem.It sounds like you have a couple of issues that may not be related. The lites that come on when you try to brighten with the light switch, the portion of the light switch that brightens the interior lites is a ground circuit that runs through a varible resistor, as you move the thumb wheel up or turn the knob the ground resitance is reduced and thus the lites become brighter. at the end of the travel of the lite switch variable resistor is a terminable that is full ground and is attached to the interior lighting. turning the knob or thum wheel to its brightest point will ground the interior courtesy light circuit,and cause the interior lites to come on. I would begin my inspection with checking this switch.
as for the lites going off when you touch the equalizer buttons, either the bulbs are loose or a bad ground or poor electrical connection in the circuit that feed the lites would be what I would check first.
ON the tail lite issue you may want to start by pulling out the bulbs on the side that is showing a fast clicking, I supect that one or more of the tail lite bulbs has shorted internally. when you pull the bulbs out you should be able to tell rather quickly if this is the case. If that passes then check the turn signal flasher. a weak flasher could cause the same problem.nice truck. During your leak down, did you have both plugs out of the head? If you did and a head gasket was blown as you suspect, you would have a large amount of air passing out of the ajoining cylinder that did not have the air attached to it. also in most cases of this type, a blown head gasket is usually involves the cooling system. it would be extremely unusual for a head gasket to blow on this engine and no effect the cooling system. Iassume that the oil is clear and not milkey. whilee the air is attached if you had taken the radiator off it would confirm the integrity of the cooling system. this is just another piece of evidence to help determine where the real problem is.
nice truck. During your leak down, did you have both plugs out of the head? If you did and a head gasket was blown as you suspect, you would have a large amount of air passing out of the ajoining cylinder that did not have the air attached to it. also in most cases of this type, a blown head gasket is usually involves the cooling system. it would be extremely unusual for a head gasket to blow on this engine and no effect the cooling system. Iassume that the oil is clear and not milkey. whilee the air is attached if you had taken the radiator off it would confirm the integrity of the cooling system. this is just another piece of evidence to help determine where the real problem is.
First on the cylinders with the lower compression, shoot a few drops of oil into the cylinders and retry the compression test. if those cylinders come up, you at least have worn rings on those cylinders.
Second, if you don’t have and air compressor you may see if one of the parts stores have leak down testers available, if they do, then network to see if you can find someone who will let you use their compressor at there place, a leakdown tester is the best way to determine if you have blow by and where it is coming from.
Third take the oil cap off and place a piece of cardboard over it with the engine running, and the pcv installed and see if the engine will have enough vacumm to hold the small piece of cardboard to the valvecover.
The last suggestion should be tried first.