[R.G.Young,Jr]

I use one of these made by a different co from time to time. first you need to know is, the brake system is split. left front and right rear, right front and left rear. second you need to use these together, that way both sides will get the same pressure at the same time. Third a difference in pressure does make a difference. i/e partially restricted hose, frozen or sticking brake mechanical parts etc. keep posting and if there is a problem, we will talk you through it.
Great diagnostic tool. take the time to get comfortable with it, it can really be helpful
Keep posting and good luck

[R.G.Young,Jr]

I use one of these made by a different co from time to time. first you need to know is, the brake system is split. left front and right rear, right front and left rear. second you need to use these together, that way both sides will get the same pressure at the same time. Third a difference in pressure does make a difference. i/e partially restricted hose, frozen or sticking brake mechanical parts etc. keep posting and if there is a problem, we will talk you through it.
Great diagnostic tool. take the time to get comfortable with it, it can really be helpful
Keep posting and good luck

[R.G.Young,Jr]

Thank you. Great devise. simple, inexpensive, and can be used by one person. my kind of tool.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

Thank you. Great devise. simple, inexpensive, and can be used by one person. my kind of tool.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

Thank you , sounds like a good ideal.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

Thank you , sounds like a good ideal.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

That sounds like a real good ideal, please post pictures. Thank you.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

That sounds like a real good ideal, please post pictures. Thank you.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

From what you describe, you don’t have a blown head gasket, more that likely it is condensation that is form inside the engine when and engine is driven for short periods of time and cools down fairly quickly. most of the time if this is the case, the white residue will look like emulsifed fat.(in severe cases) this can be taken care of by using an engine flush with butlyselasolve in it. this will flush any anyfreese that may have been left over from the headgasket problem as well as clean the inside of the engine. then ckeck your thermostat to be sure it is working properly. be sure to follow directions on the cleaner,if you do, you should not have any problem.
Keep posting and Good luck

[R.G.Young,Jr]

From what you describe, you don’t have a blown head gasket, more that likely it is condensation that is form inside the engine when and engine is driven for short periods of time and cools down fairly quickly. most of the time if this is the case, the white residue will look like emulsifed fat.(in severe cases) this can be taken care of by using an engine flush with butlyselasolve in it. this will flush any anyfreese that may have been left over from the headgasket problem as well as clean the inside of the engine. then ckeck your thermostat to be sure it is working properly. be sure to follow directions on the cleaner,if you do, you should not have any problem.
Keep posting and Good luck

[R.G.Young,Jr]

I assume that no dash lights are working, is that correct? if it is, also check to see if the tail lights are working. the tail lights and the dash lights are usually on the same circuits.if the tail ligths are working ok then you may want to start your testing with dash grounds. voltage drop testing can confirm their integrity. if all of the lights are inopertive including the tail lights , then you most likely have a power issue.
Keep posting and good luck.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

I assume that no dash lights are working, is that correct? if it is, also check to see if the tail lights are working. the tail lights and the dash lights are usually on the same circuits.if the tail ligths are working ok then you may want to start your testing with dash grounds. voltage drop testing can confirm their integrity. if all of the lights are inopertive including the tail lights , then you most likely have a power issue.
Keep posting and good luck.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

ok here we go. first locate the O2 sensor in Question, follow the electrical leads back to a connector that you can access easily. the sensor may have three or four wires going to it. if it does only one of the wires is the signal wire. ( may have to look in a wiring diagram to determine which wire is the signal wire). once you have located the signal wire, take your dvom and turn it to the lowest reading for DC volts that will still give you a reading of at least one volt. take the ground lead and attached it to a good ground, take the positive lead and back probe the sensor signal at the connector. once this step is completed, and you are sure you are on the sensor signal wire, start your engine. allow the engine to warm up, and observe the readout on the meter. you should be seeing the voltage switching from ,1volt to .9 volt this is reallly 1000mv-900mv..anyway the treshold voltage you want to observe is to besure it is switching above and below .5v or 500mv. if it isn’t then a problem exist. but before throwing a new part at it you may not need, lets do two more test if the first test warrents it.
First if the voltage is staying above .5mv introduce a small vacumm leak into the engine and see if the reading responds by going down belowe .5mv.if it doesn’t, the sensor may not be able to recognize a lean condition.
second if the sensor is remaining below .5mv try attaching a small tube to a propane bottle and add a little propane to the engine and see if it goes above .5mv. if it don’t then the sensor may be unable to recognize a rich condition. BE CAREFUL WHEN USING THE PORPANE. if it fails one of these test then you would need to look at what would cause it to run rich or lean. if you can’t find anything to cause the test to fail then replace the sensor.
Keep posting and good luck.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

ok here we go. first locate the O2 sensor in Question, follow the electrical leads back to a connector that you can access easily. the sensor may have three or four wires going to it. if it does only one of the wires is the signal wire. ( may have to look in a wiring diagram to determine which wire is the signal wire). once you have located the signal wire, take your dvom and turn it to the lowest reading for DC volts that will still give you a reading of at least one volt. take the ground lead and attached it to a good ground, take the positive lead and back probe the sensor signal at the connector. once this step is completed, and you are sure you are on the sensor signal wire, start your engine. allow the engine to warm up, and observe the readout on the meter. you should be seeing the voltage switching from ,1volt to .9 volt this is reallly 1000mv-900mv..anyway the treshold voltage you want to observe is to besure it is switching above and below .5v or 500mv. if it isn’t then a problem exist. but before throwing a new part at it you may not need, lets do two more test if the first test warrents it.
First if the voltage is staying above .5mv introduce a small vacumm leak into the engine and see if the reading responds by going down belowe .5mv.if it doesn’t, the sensor may not be able to recognize a lean condition.
second if the sensor is remaining below .5mv try attaching a small tube to a propane bottle and add a little propane to the engine and see if it goes above .5mv. if it don’t then the sensor may be unable to recognize a rich condition. BE CAREFUL WHEN USING THE PORPANE. if it fails one of these test then you would need to look at what would cause it to run rich or lean. if you can’t find anything to cause the test to fail then replace the sensor.
Keep posting and good luck.

[R.G.Young,Jr]

what kind of problems where you having that caused the ecu to be replaced? you may have changed a good ecu woth a bad one, or one that isn’t programed for your vehicle. also did you change the prom from the old ecu into the new? keep posting and we will talk you through this. Good luck

[Author]

Replies