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the outer boot is a dust boot, and should not be lubricated. if you are rebuilding a caliper then lube the inner seal ring with a light coat of brake fluid is all that is required. if you are replacing the pads only, then as collage man suggest cleaning the outside surface with brake clean and a rag is a good ideal.
the outer boot is a dust boot, and should not be lubricated. if you are rebuilding a caliper then lube the inner seal ring with a light coat of brake fluid is all that is required. if you are replacing the pads only, then as collage man suggest cleaning the outside surface with brake clean and a rag is a good ideal.
that is normal if you had disconnected the vacuum advance to hook up the vacuum gage. a vacuum gauge should be connected straight to the intake manifold or through a fitting that does not control a function of the engine at the time of testing i/e modulator valve, brake booster, vacuum reservoir tank etc, if you were working on a vehicle that has one, if not, you can tee into an existing manifold vacuum source to obtain the readings you need.
that is normal if you had disconnected the vacuum advance to hook up the vacuum gage. a vacuum gauge should be connected straight to the intake manifold or through a fitting that does not control a function of the engine at the time of testing i/e modulator valve, brake booster, vacuum reservoir tank etc, if you were working on a vehicle that has one, if not, you can tee into an existing manifold vacuum source to obtain the readings you need.
the squeak is usually caused by vibration of the pads during stopping. two things I would like to suggest, one check to see the trueness of the rotors, and second I would suggest that you clean the backing on the pads and lubricate or coat with hi temp antiseize (copper color).(do on both inner and outer pads), be sure to keep off of pad surface. pad surface needs to be completely clean.
keep posting about your progress, and good luck.the squeak is usually caused by vibration of the pads during stopping. two things I would like to suggest, one check to see the trueness of the rotors, and second I would suggest that you clean the backing on the pads and lubricate or coat with hi temp antiseize (copper color).(do on both inner and outer pads), be sure to keep off of pad surface. pad surface needs to be completely clean.
keep posting about your progress, and good luck.not knowing the engine you have, I suggest that if you have and engine strut mounted, on the top of the engine,(or toward the top and front of the engine) that you disconnect it and roll the engine forward (toward the front of the vehicle), as far as it will go, that should give you enough room to remove the coils and plugs. you will probably have to use either a come-a-long or some kind of jack configuration to roll the engine and secure it in place while you make the repair. note we are not talking about a large distance, also note some engine struts have extra holes in there mount for this purpose to secure the engine while it is pulled forward. good luck and keep posting, and give us more information about the drive train if this doesn’t help.
not knowing the engine you have, I suggest that if you have and engine strut mounted, on the top of the engine,(or toward the top and front of the engine) that you disconnect it and roll the engine forward (toward the front of the vehicle), as far as it will go, that should give you enough room to remove the coils and plugs. you will probably have to use either a come-a-long or some kind of jack configuration to roll the engine and secure it in place while you make the repair. note we are not talking about a large distance, also note some engine struts have extra holes in there mount for this purpose to secure the engine while it is pulled forward. good luck and keep posting, and give us more information about the drive train if this doesn’t help.
It can, in a lot of cases the clicking will sound dull compared to a good injector. however this isn’t always the case. If you can disconnect the injector while it is at idle, you should notice a sharp drop in rpm. the ideal is to disconnect an injector from a known good cylinder and note the rpm change. then reconnect and then do the same with the affected cylinder and see if you have close to and equal reaction. that is a quick test. that being said, the truest test is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and recycle the ignition switch a couple of times to get the fuel pressure up (do not start engine, turning the switch on and off will achieve what is needed for this test) and then activate that one injector by itself externally and note the fuel pressure drop. Then recycle the ignition switch again to restore the fuel pressure and activate an injector from a known good cylinder in the same manner, and note that pressure drop. the pressure drop should be close to the same in that injector, if the suspect injector is working properly.
if they are different, you may need to replace the injector, but before I would do that, I would try cleaning the injectors. If the suspect injector is dirty and not totally blocked, then the spray pattern will be streaming instead of a conical spray pattern. If this is the case, a good cleaning should restore harmony back to the engine.
Good Luck and keep posting.It can, in a lot of cases the clicking will sound dull compared to a good injector. however this isn’t always the case. If you can disconnect the injector while it is at idle, you should notice a sharp drop in rpm. the ideal is to disconnect an injector from a known good cylinder and note the rpm change. then reconnect and then do the same with the affected cylinder and see if you have close to and equal reaction. that is a quick test. that being said, the truest test is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and recycle the ignition switch a couple of times to get the fuel pressure up (do not start engine, turning the switch on and off will achieve what is needed for this test) and then activate that one injector by itself externally and note the fuel pressure drop. Then recycle the ignition switch again to restore the fuel pressure and activate an injector from a known good cylinder in the same manner, and note that pressure drop. the pressure drop should be close to the same in that injector, if the suspect injector is working properly.
if they are different, you may need to replace the injector, but before I would do that, I would try cleaning the injectors. If the suspect injector is dirty and not totally blocked, then the spray pattern will be streaming instead of a conical spray pattern. If this is the case, a good cleaning should restore harmony back to the engine.
Good Luck and keep posting.It can, in a lot of cases the clicking will sound dull compared to a good injector. however this isn’t always the case. If you can disconnect the injector while it is at idle, you should notice a sharp drop in rpm. the ideal is to disconnect an injector from a known good cylinder and note the rpm change. then reconnect and then do the same with the affected cylinder and see if you have close to and equal reaction. that is a quick test. that being said, the truest test is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and recycle the ignition switch a couple of times to get the fuel pressure up (do not start engine, turning the switch on and off will achieve what is needed for this test) and then activate that one injector by itself externally and note the fuel pressure drop. Then recycle the ignition switch again to restore the fuel pressure and activate an injector from a known good cylinder in the same manner, and note that pressure drop. the pressure drop should be close to the same in that injector, if the suspect injector is working properly.
if they are different, you may need to replace the injector, but before I would do that, I would try cleaning the injectors. If the suspect injector is dirty and not totally blocked, then the spray pattern will be streaming instead of a conical spray pattern. If this is the case, a good cleaning should restore harmony back to the engine.
Good Luck and keep posting.It can, in a lot of cases the clicking will sound dull compared to a good injector. however this isn’t always the case. If you can disconnect the injector while it is at idle, you should notice a sharp drop in rpm. the ideal is to disconnect an injector from a known good cylinder and note the rpm change. then reconnect and then do the same with the affected cylinder and see if you have close to and equal reaction. that is a quick test. that being said, the truest test is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and recycle the ignition switch a couple of times to get the fuel pressure up (do not start engine, turning the switch on and off will achieve what is needed for this test) and then activate that one injector by itself externally and note the fuel pressure drop. Then recycle the ignition switch again to restore the fuel pressure and activate an injector from a known good cylinder in the same manner, and note that pressure drop. the pressure drop should be close to the same in that injector, if the suspect injector is working properly.
if they are different, you may need to replace the injector, but before I would do that, I would try cleaning the injectors. If the suspect injector is dirty and not totally blocked, then the spray pattern will be streaming instead of a conical spray pattern. If this is the case, a good cleaning should restore harmony back to the engine.
Good Luck and keep posting.