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New symptom has shown up today for the first time ever (never happened in 10+ years of ownership), might help with diagnosis.
Went to start the car up, 80 degrees, car was at operating temp. The RPM went from 750 to 0 in 2 seconds and died. Tried again, same thing. 3rd time, it fired up and before the rpm could drop to zero, gave it a little gas, the engine revved up and acted normally. Helped it at about 1500-2000 rpm for about 30 seconds (and throughout this time there is all sorts of rattling under my car, thinking cat again but I really need a jack and stands, i’m in an apartment so no tools. 🙁
That problem went away and hasn’t happened since.
New symptom has shown up today for the first time ever (never happened in 10+ years of ownership), might help with diagnosis.
Went to start the car up, 80 degrees, car was at operating temp. The RPM went from 750 to 0 in 2 seconds and died. Tried again, same thing. 3rd time, it fired up and before the rpm could drop to zero, gave it a little gas, the engine revved up and acted normally. Helped it at about 1500-2000 rpm for about 30 seconds (and throughout this time there is all sorts of rattling under my car, thinking cat again but I really need a jack and stands, i’m in an apartment so no tools. 🙁
That problem went away and hasn’t happened since.
Plugs are NGK
New wires are OE
new Cap/rotor/coil are aftermarketI’d buy a new $800 or whatever oe distributor if I knew for sure it was the problem for sure but if I’m just throwing parts at it, it’s hard to justify.
i’m tempted to buy an obdii scanner/software.
Plugs are NGK
New wires are OE
new Cap/rotor/coil are aftermarketI’d buy a new $800 or whatever oe distributor if I knew for sure it was the problem for sure but if I’m just throwing parts at it, it’s hard to justify.
i’m tempted to buy an obdii scanner/software.
Update: yesterday, came out of work, engine shakes, so did the power test.
Cylinder 3 was the only one that didn’t make a difference when I pulled out each spark plug wire (which are new as well as the spark plug).
Reset my ecu, since I figured the test may make it throw additional codes.
Today, drove and heard a backfire upon load/acceleration. Light came on immediately and I happened to be .5 mi from the auto parts store.
Codes:
P0706 Transmission code (google says park/neutral switch may be faulty, doesn’t seem like a huge deal at the moment)
P1399 random misfire
Also 3 individual cylinder misfires (2, 3, 4)Valve lash then injector cleaning is next on my list but I’m going to wait till I visit my folks in a few weeks to do them, since I’ll have an extra car to go get parts if I need to.
Update: yesterday, came out of work, engine shakes, so did the power test.
Cylinder 3 was the only one that didn’t make a difference when I pulled out each spark plug wire (which are new as well as the spark plug).
Reset my ecu, since I figured the test may make it throw additional codes.
Today, drove and heard a backfire upon load/acceleration. Light came on immediately and I happened to be .5 mi from the auto parts store.
Codes:
P0706 Transmission code (google says park/neutral switch may be faulty, doesn’t seem like a huge deal at the moment)
P1399 random misfire
Also 3 individual cylinder misfires (2, 3, 4)Valve lash then injector cleaning is next on my list but I’m going to wait till I visit my folks in a few weeks to do them, since I’ll have an extra car to go get parts if I need to.
I was just about to post!
The problem came back. Drove perfect for 2 weeks.
Came outside of work (nothing odd happened during the day, wasn’t really cold, didn’t rain).
Fired up the car and the idle was very rough. CEL came on, blinking non stop. Not a random miss but the engine shook at a very constant interval (so the problems seems to be at one cylinder).
If I was smart, I would have done the power balance test right then and there and figured it out, but I shut the car off. Fired it back up, problem is gone. Fuel pressure read within spec this time.
I do not have the codes but will go this weekend to have them pulled. May have to get those feeler gauges out and give that a go and clean the injectors/replace o-rings as well.
Oh, and to add to the list of parts changed weeks ago, ignition coil, non-oem.
I was just about to post!
The problem came back. Drove perfect for 2 weeks.
Came outside of work (nothing odd happened during the day, wasn’t really cold, didn’t rain).
Fired up the car and the idle was very rough. CEL came on, blinking non stop. Not a random miss but the engine shook at a very constant interval (so the problems seems to be at one cylinder).
If I was smart, I would have done the power balance test right then and there and figured it out, but I shut the car off. Fired it back up, problem is gone. Fuel pressure read within spec this time.
I do not have the codes but will go this weekend to have them pulled. May have to get those feeler gauges out and give that a go and clean the injectors/replace o-rings as well.
Oh, and to add to the list of parts changed weeks ago, ignition coil, non-oem.
Update:
Wenesday, after 2 months of fooling with the car, with no other new changes, the CEL went off. Haven’t heard the car backfire, staring at the exhaust pipe, every pulse is as it should be. Car runs super smooth, 100% full throttle up hills, no problems.
:blink:
Went ahead and installed the fuel pressure gauge anyways.
Factory spec, w/o vacuum line attached
40-47 psi, gauge, 44 psi (fuel pump good)Factory spec, w/ vacuum line attached
36-43 psi, gauge, 35 psi (fuel pressure regulator… hmm)My guess, the fuel filter was really bad, lots of sand, the fuel that came out the dirty end was almost black. I’m thinking the fuel system was in really bad shape and it needed a clean filter and a few tanks of clean fuel to go through to get the pressure back up to spec and was running lean due to lack of fuel pressure before.
What do ya’ll gentleman think? I haven’t done the valve lash yet, valves sound normal but will try if the misfires come back, if not, will just have it done at next timing belt service. As for the rattle, I don’t have a jack/stands, so I need to wait till have access but I think you’re right Eric, it’s very likely to be the shields, otherwise, I’d be throwing codes, having performance issues.
Update:
Wenesday, after 2 months of fooling with the car, with no other new changes, the CEL went off. Haven’t heard the car backfire, staring at the exhaust pipe, every pulse is as it should be. Car runs super smooth, 100% full throttle up hills, no problems.
:blink:
Went ahead and installed the fuel pressure gauge anyways.
Factory spec, w/o vacuum line attached
40-47 psi, gauge, 44 psi (fuel pump good)Factory spec, w/ vacuum line attached
36-43 psi, gauge, 35 psi (fuel pressure regulator… hmm)My guess, the fuel filter was really bad, lots of sand, the fuel that came out the dirty end was almost black. I’m thinking the fuel system was in really bad shape and it needed a clean filter and a few tanks of clean fuel to go through to get the pressure back up to spec and was running lean due to lack of fuel pressure before.
What do ya’ll gentleman think? I haven’t done the valve lash yet, valves sound normal but will try if the misfires come back, if not, will just have it done at next timing belt service. As for the rattle, I don’t have a jack/stands, so I need to wait till have access but I think you’re right Eric, it’s very likely to be the shields, otherwise, I’d be throwing codes, having performance issues.
Thank you for the replies, I am very grateful.
college man, I did the vacuum leak test, sprayed down pretty much everything, no changes in idle. power balance test, I haven’t done because the misfire is so intermittent. It’s sooooo smooth then all of a sudden, it will skip one.
I agree the plugs look awfully white, I definately have fuel pressure. I did order a fuel pressure gauge to put on so I’ll be checking that according with and without vacuum (helms procedure) to see if the pump and fuel pressure are within spec.
EricTheCarGuy,
I’m going to do the valve adjustment first thing sat. morning. It was last done at 90k miles, upon my request, when it had it’s timing belt/water pump, belts, ect ect done (not by me). 60k miles, 4 years later, it may be probably due.Going to watch the other videos tonight, fingers crossed the cat isn’t bad! Thank ya’ll again for the help!
Thank you for the replies, I am very grateful.
college man, I did the vacuum leak test, sprayed down pretty much everything, no changes in idle. power balance test, I haven’t done because the misfire is so intermittent. It’s sooooo smooth then all of a sudden, it will skip one.
I agree the plugs look awfully white, I definately have fuel pressure. I did order a fuel pressure gauge to put on so I’ll be checking that according with and without vacuum (helms procedure) to see if the pump and fuel pressure are within spec.
EricTheCarGuy,
I’m going to do the valve adjustment first thing sat. morning. It was last done at 90k miles, upon my request, when it had it’s timing belt/water pump, belts, ect ect done (not by me). 60k miles, 4 years later, it may be probably due.Going to watch the other videos tonight, fingers crossed the cat isn’t bad! Thank ya’ll again for the help!
btw took it to an acura dealer about 2 weeks ago, they couldn’t find anything at all. They did say i needed to buy new tires, new wipers, new oil pan gasket (i already knew all of that, declined all). Reset the ecu and sent me on my way.
Backfired/misfired as soon as I left the parking lot. Went back, demanded my money and am fixing it myself. Had to buy a bunch of tools (never worked on cars before) but I don’t trust them.
