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Hi Eric.
At least 3 Acura technicians and myself have checked the mechanical integrity of the engine (well at least I hope they did 🙂
The first visit was at an Acura dealer in Austin. The last 2 visits were actually very comprehensive, I actually used to work at that dealer as a salesman and the shop foreman was the guy who did my timing belt at 90k, they really wanted to figure it out. I got the car looked at 190k miles and they drove the car for 20-30 miles and did their diagnostics and couldn’t find anything. Then I took it back to the Acura dealership at 195k for them to do a full timing belt/drive belt/water pump, coolant, and service. They had the car for 2 days and had no idea what is causing it.I’ve adjusted the valves myself using your video. Compression test about 10-15k miles ago: 4, 3, 2, 1 (200 psi, 195 psi, 190 psi, 195 psi)
I’ve done vacuum leak test, power balance test, ect but will take a closer look at your link tonight.Also will add other than a K&N drop-in air filter which was installed over 10 years and cleaned yearly, an generic radiator, and a puralator oil filter, the car is 100% OEM stock.
Quick update, I haven’t ordered a timing light yet so that’s my bad (did watch ETCG’s video though, very helpful).
The light turned off all of the sudden. It’s not burned out because it will light up and turn off at start off.
The light very very rarely (1-2 times a year over the last few years) turns off on it’s own, then comes back in about 1-2 weeks. The car was parked in a parking garage and it had just rained a lot, so the streets were wet. But as I was driving, the CEL just turned off for no apparent reason, wasn’t accelerating, was driving like 20 mph. I think several of those rare times in the past, but not all, this happened after rain.
How does the CEL light work anyways? Do misfire codes get cleared out after a certain amount of time if the engine does not experience one again?
I haven’t checked ignition timing, will definately do that as soon as I can, thanks for ya’lls posts.
Ignition coil was replaced around 160k miles and the problem showed up right after. Don’t ignitors just fail causing a no-start? or do they have intermediate problems?
Quick update, been running with the CEL on for the last month, pulled codes today.
P0301-P0304 – Misfire, 1, 2, 3, 4.
P0300 – random misfire
P1399 – random misfireNo catalytic codes or 02 sensor codes this time. Emissions test shows, Catalyst not ready but all the other are I believe.
Ordering a vacuum gauge today, been way too busy working. I’m thinking though, the cat is bad and causing too much backpressure, and thus a misfire on all cylinders. Besides a vacuum leak, that’s the only reason I can think of that would cause a random misfire on all of them.
Sensotronic brakes on some 2000’s mercedes. Any brake pad change that starts with something like “if you don’t deactivate proper, you could lose your fingers!” does not appeal to me.
Sensotronic brakes on some 2000’s mercedes. Any brake pad change that starts with something like “if you don’t deactivate proper, you could lose your fingers!” does not appeal to me.
[quote=”college man” post=52659]I would check the spark to see if its a solid blue.
unplug each injector according to the power balance
test.[/quote]I need to do this, totally forgot. When I did power balance test removing spark plug wires, cylinder 3 had no effect when removed.
I’m hoping it’s not a burnt valve and just an injector.
[quote=”college man” post=52659]I would check the spark to see if its a solid blue.
unplug each injector according to the power balance
test.[/quote]I need to do this, totally forgot. When I did power balance test removing spark plug wires, cylinder 3 had no effect when removed.
I’m hoping it’s not a burnt valve and just an injector.
Finally got the valve lash done, about 4 intake/ 4 exhaust were too tight, the rest were dead on.
Stone cold engine, made sure next size up didn’t fit and the right size slid in consistently.
new plugs looked exactly the same all across, no differences.
Disconnected the battery 10 mins to let it reset.
Fired it up, idled great for about 2 mins, then I could hear it missing randomly, exhaust started making the same poof sound intermittently. Within 1-2 mins, check engine light started flashing so I shut it down. Have not had a chance to pull the code yet, but I can guess with 99% certainty what it is.
Drove 200 miles with the light on (been driving these last like 4 months with this problem, engine backfires going up hills and under load, just like before. No noticeable change in performance or fuel economy.
Probably going to change to remove and clean all 4 injectors next, maybe compression test, unless ya’ll have any other suggestions.
Finally got the valve lash done, about 4 intake/ 4 exhaust were too tight, the rest were dead on.
Stone cold engine, made sure next size up didn’t fit and the right size slid in consistently.
new plugs looked exactly the same all across, no differences.
Disconnected the battery 10 mins to let it reset.
Fired it up, idled great for about 2 mins, then I could hear it missing randomly, exhaust started making the same poof sound intermittently. Within 1-2 mins, check engine light started flashing so I shut it down. Have not had a chance to pull the code yet, but I can guess with 99% certainty what it is.
Drove 200 miles with the light on (been driving these last like 4 months with this problem, engine backfires going up hills and under load, just like before. No noticeable change in performance or fuel economy.
Probably going to change to remove and clean all 4 injectors next, maybe compression test, unless ya’ll have any other suggestions.
