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I like the 12 pt when working on removing fasteners that are not torque down a lot. The socket has a better chance of lining up with a bolt right away. I like it! 😀
However on higher torque application, 6 pt is the way to go. OR I might even invest in these Grip-Tite.
I like the 12 pt when working on removing fasteners that are not torque down a lot. The socket has a better chance of lining up with a bolt right away. I like it! 😀
However on higher torque application, 6 pt is the way to go. OR I might even invest in these Grip-Tite.
I too have bought this BAFX one. Great OBDII -> Bluetooth. Works well with Torque on Android.
I do wish the BAFX knew when to turn itself off when the engine is off. Don’t keep it plug in or it will drain your battery. 🙂
I too have bought this BAFX one. Great OBDII -> Bluetooth. Works well with Torque on Android.
I do wish the BAFX knew when to turn itself off when the engine is off. Don’t keep it plug in or it will drain your battery. 🙂
Just thought I would post this since I recently did a spark plug replacement myself. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
Just thought I would post this since I recently did a spark plug replacement myself. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf
Thank you college man and Eric for replying. I just got a chance to look at the car today. Cleaning the assembly definitely helps, even though it looked pretty clean. So far no sticking yet.
The one thing I found dissapointing about the Yaris is that it doesn’t have a dedicated parking lever return spring in the assembly. It only relies on the parking brake cable spring, which is quite weak…
Thanks again guys for the replies!
Hey Eric, thanks for replying to this.
That’s what I thought initially that I got a bad “new part” Anyways, found the real culprit…
********* SOLUTION*************
Turns out the ignition switch was getting faulty. I ordered a new one, and so far it seems that it’s working just fine. The turning of the key was good also, it clicks into accessory and on position, just like new.
I took apart the actually switch and the contacts seem to be worn out and burnt. As previously mentioned, Mitsubishis, from what I researched, have this common problem with the switch.
On my 2002 Galant here is how I replaced it…
1) Remove 3 philiips screws on the steering column cover and pull it apart. (2 near the adjustment bar and 1 near the ignition switch)
2) I also removed the lower dashboard panel for easier convenience of removing the ignition switch screws. (Total of 4 screws I believe)
3) Locate the ignition switch. It is located directly across from the key cylinder. You will see thick cable connected to it and it is held on my 2 Torx 10 screws
4) I would remove the ignition screws then unplug the connector.
5) Then replace it with the new part. I got mine from Amazon. Beck Arnley Part number 201-1951
6) Put it all back and test it! 😛TAGS: 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003 Eclipse
Hope this helps anyone who encounters this problem! 🙂
Thanks for the suggestions guys
I did try to jump the car using a battery charger, nothing.
I did test if I got a 12V to the starter solenoid when I turn the key. And making sure I get 12V to to the starter motor. All good there
The car does start sometime, I believe the problem lies within the key area/interior. So I ordered a new ignition switch. Worth a shot considering it seems to be a common problem in Mitsu’s. (From what I researched)
I’ll be posting my findings this coming weekend.