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this was down right delicious…love this thread…i wish i was 20 again..i would go back to school……
each his own…its all hard work, and time consuming…i have pm scotty and stated the fact his video’s are short and he responded that nobody will watch full length vids…his tire screeching intro really gets my nerves frazzled,,,W-|
two word’s=you rockT)
is the idle too low? also you say it shakes at 50-60..whats shaking=the steering wheel, because ive never owned a car that the engine shakes at highway speeds..what does it idle at?
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I think your looking at 2 different problems, first the easy one is the vibration 50-60, that’s classic tire balance, I would have the tires balanced and then recheck for that. As for the idle issue I have my Honda idle speech ready to go, here it is.
There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of that engine however here are some things to start with.First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don’t change the wires if they are OE, if they aren’t OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.Don’t change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I’ve seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE’s last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense.Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to ‘chunk’ as it spins causing a rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it’s not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place.Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues.If you still have a ‘rough’ idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.well said
this is posted in the wrong forum bud….
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
How do you know it’s in high gear?
Try unhooking the battery for a few minutes to reset everything, then see if the problems still there.
How is the transmission fluid level and condition?i know its high because the car hardly moves forward,,,,when this happened i put the accelerator to the floor and got up to highway speed, never shifted…the fluid was changed around 1 year before…im thinking hard parts have failed,,,but im hoping maybe something simply,,,,,,
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
nope,,,not at all….all forward gears on the gear selector are high gear
watch eric.s video’s….i would pressure test the coolant system,,,,does the engine any miss at idle? im thinking a slight blown head gasket myself…myself i would pressure check the system, compression check, and if something looks abnormal=leak down test…
sounds like your putting more into it then its worth..is it a wreck recovery, or are you just wanting to upgrade?..i would be hitting all the scrap yards..or even better=looking for a roll-over……
October 20, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: 98 honda accord 2.3L VTEC rough idle and coolant temp and ot #442063you can all your answers watching etcg video’s on this topic. change the plugs, use honda recommended plugs only, especially on this car..dont change the oe wires, they last for a long time and better than aftermarket…follow etcg advise and look at the links..your car has the updated seals in the valve cover, but still might leak oil into plug well..
@3sheets…..i hope you get your answers to your problem…your replys were longer than a SAT exam…did you get it all out? done venting? feel beeter?,,,maybe you might check out http://www.dr.phil.com….man it was painful to the optic
October 20, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: 1992 Mitsubish Eclipse GSX – Two tone midnight blue and arti #435560i have a 1990 eclipse in my drive way right now…i will post pics soon…its been sitting since 2006,,,first year, first generation…its a AWD turbo automatic with 96K…for some reason its stuck in high gear…all other gears work fine but in drive its in high…if i manually put in 1st, it is still stuck in 4th…i get offers 2-3 times a month….
[quote]Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
The keyway for the distributor is offset so you really aren’t able to install it incorrectly, if it won’t go on one way spin it around 180
not much of a mustang fan,but i wish i would have never sold the 2 i had…both were 1979 5.0,,,,one was i perfect shape, i mean perfect…it had blown headgaskets and i bought it in 1989 for $600…i know that in tennesse where i live, these things are very rare, and if they do show up=hacked,hacked, hacked…..they do make great racecars though…with a chevy engine that is…
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