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you did not state if its a v-6 or not..the v-6 are very problematic…98-04….is the CEL on?…i know on my accord the VSS went out and the car shifted funny…is your speed-o working?
i tend to go to autozone first for bigger parts..everytime i call around it seems they have everyone beat….another perk is if you spend more than $20 five times=$100 you will get $20 off your next purchase……to everyone living in CA they quit checking your CEL..the governor will only let repair shop’s do this which is not free…..
i tend to go to autozone first for bigger parts..everytime i call around it seems they have everyone beat….another perk is if you spend more than $20 five times=$100 you will get $20 off your next purchase……to everyone living in CA they quit checking your CEL..the governor will only let repair shop’s do this which is not free…..
here is mine 1967 true SS396 M-22…..thats me in 1987 pushing it out the garage to get it back on the road,,,me and pops put a 454
(he sure loved those BB)…..
no compression in all cylinders…out of time or completely flooded….the reason it sound so different when starting is because it has no compression…keep us posted, im putting my $ that it jumped time majorly of flooooooooooded…put the petal to the floor and crank crank….
Quoted From trinidee:
My sugesstion would be to use a breaker bar, the correct socket, disconnect the main spark ignition so that the car doesnt fire and use the starter to turn the engine over. Crank over the engine with small quarter of a second turns. You must be careful because there is a lot of pressure on that breaker bar when you turn the engine over. Remember the engine turns over clockwise. Maybe Eric’s video gives a better description of what we are talking about.
this engine turns counter-clockwise so this will only tighten it more……use the breaker bar set-up and a 5 ft breaker bar for leverage….off she comes….
wow,,,started off with bad #3, but look at the compression on #1 & 2….way too low…the blinking CEL,,not good…extreme caution….you sure throw alot of $ at it…did you buy recommended parts for honda=NGK,,etc,,,you should have kept the OE wires,,,checked the #3 wire with ohm-meter…..if you have fuel, compression, spark, and engine is healthy=timing correct, etc,,,i dont see why this engine wont start….i beleive in the beggining #3 wire was bad,due to the fact the plug was newish,…scan the OBD port…that would have been the first step…read my sig
Quoted From dandro:
I found this one:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 … ockType=G6in the bargain isle at my local Sears shop for $99 so I snatched it up in a hurry. It was missing the hose and the attachments, but in all honesty, those are garbage anyway! I bought a 50ft rubber hose and good to go! It is VERY noisy though but it’s an air compressor I expect it to be noisy.
i have this but with a 15 gallon tank…nothing special but gets er done..cycle times are long and loud,,,but i dont mind because my two kids are even louder….
ok here’s is where im at…since this is a 1990 i used a analog miltimeter hooked to pin 6 and 12..i receive no singal….when i hook it to 1 and 12 for ecm codes i get a continous beep…since 6 and 12 is for checking the TCU, my question is if its bad, would it be non-responsive=no pulse?
the special crankshaft holding tool is on sale at amazon for $15…free shipping…..if you purchase eric”s 1990-2002 timing belt replacement video, he will show you a fastener to fastener procedure, and save you $ by not having to purchase the special tool……put some elbow grease into it…great investment…..
