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Hello, Randy! Did you have a P0306 and that’s why you tested compression, or were you checking for your own peace of mind? As you mentioned, it could have been a sticky valve which usually stems from carbon buildup. You can try using some seafoam to clean the carbon out.
Any DTC’s on this one? If not, were you able to check fuel pressure before replacing the fuel pump? In spec.?
You can confirm you have a clogged or restricted cat by hooking up a vacuum gauge. Note vacuum at idle, then increase engine RPM to about 3000 RPM. Vacuum should drop, then steadily climb back up to the reading you had at idle. If it doesn’t climb back up, or it does climb, but drops back down, this would indicate that your exhaust is restricted. A more invasive approach would be to remove the cat, if it’s mounted to the exhaust of course, and to check if it’s clogged.
When you removed the distributor, did you remove the spark plug wires from the distributor or the spark plugs?
One of your injectors could be leaking too. I’d suggest removing the spark plugs, then turn the key to the one position (key on engine off), and check if there is fuel squirting into the cylinder.
You can try wiggle testing the harness to see if you can make the vehicle fault before it gets up to operating temp. Since the fault only occurs once the vehicle is warm, it sounds more like a module problem, though I could definitely be wrong. You can try checking voltage while the engine is cold and hot to see if anything drops off, but depending on how fast it switches, a regular dmm might not catch it. Try tapping on the TIPM too before the engine gets hot. Maybe you can make it fault that way.
Check engine light? It looks like the vehicle has a spark plug boot that plugs into the ignition control module so you swapped the boot, and not the coil. Have you checked for spark?
You’re talking about the two threaded plastic pieces on the bottom of the window glass that are used to bolt it to the regulator, right? Maybe some JB Weld? You won’t see them anyway.
So it sounds like it makes contact, but barely? Maybe pull the starter out and bench test it. See how the pinion gear reacts.
Hot spots occur when the brakes are overheated. This can happen due to a number of things, but I’ve mostly seen that it was due to driving habits. If they’re bad enough, they could cause the rotor to warp which will give you a vibration while braking.
As for the control arms, it sounds like they’re going to replace the whole thing as an assembly, not just the bushing. This is just a guess though. I also don’t know what the labor rate is for that particular dealer, or the labor time for replacing the control arm bushings.