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14% leakage isnt that bad. Enough for concern, and if you can tell it’s coming out from somewhere else (diff spark plug) then it probably is a bad head gasket.
And yes, its a time consuming job.
And a compression test won’t always tell you its a bad head gasket.
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Biggest thing we need to know is the mileage.
And I’d guess it has at least 160k miles.
The next biggest thing you need to check out is the timing belt. If that goes your entire engine is toast, if it’s an interference engine (which I’m pretty sure it is). If it runs on a chain, you’re fine, but I think it’s a belt.
That’s the biggest thing to check.
All the other things are pretty common and shows age. I replace water pumps on every car I’ve ever owned just because they tend to always go on older cars.
Another thing could be ball joints. I’d check those, because if those are extremely bad, they can lead to catastrophic failure and be unsafe.
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It can make sense.
Bottom line, it died because of oil issues. Anytime there is ANY kind of “pour this in, and it’ll be fixed” you’re doing a hack job. It’s pretty much 98% fail rate even if it is “fixed” for a week or so. And now you have extra shit in your engine.
Scotty kilmer creeps me the hell out by the way.
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I would wisely guess either the IAC is bad or you do have a vacuum leak. With a runner up possibility that the throttle body needs to be cleaned.
If you car idles rough when there is NO throttle, but runs/idles well when there IS throttle….that is an indication of vaccuum. Because, when there is no throttle, the engine isn’t sucking in. When you have throttle, the engine is sucking in hard…essentially creating a major vaccuum and basically ignoring whatever vaccuum there is.
IAC is good to check because these directly work with the idle speed.
Your throttle body could help by being cleaned. If you clean it…take the blade out completely. Clean it, and the body then put it in.
You shouldn’t change or adjust the idle screw…but maybe you already did, or somebody else did. Adjust this as your last case scenario. Your car should idle in the ball park of 650ish (all cars vary).
Fuel trims would help you see if you have a vaccuum leak…if you know-how to read them.
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I’ve got a slew saved on Amazon…but looking for feedback to hopefully not buy books that aren’t worth the paper they are printed on
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I have a question.
Is it possible to take the ASE test without the 2 years experience? I don’t care if it’s unofficial or doesn’t count.
I have my main career that makes more than what I would make at a mechanic, so not looking to get into an automotive career really, I’m just a shade tree mechanic on the side.
I was told sometimes they will let you take it, but there’s no certification.
I’d like to just take it to see how I fair.
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Lol, shit….I prob use half the bolts that originally come in cars lol.
Maybe not that bad, but I don’t sweat it. I use common sense and most of the time just leave bolts out. If it’s something that needs even pressure, then I take one of the old bolts with me and go to ace or home depot and get the same size (usually different heads). If it’s just an extra screw on a trim piece, meh…
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There’s a company out there that makes entire pistons and I think rods too, from ceramic. Entire piston and rings are ceramic.
They were on kick-started about a year ago and I haven’t heard from them since.
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If anything, a compression test will tell you a lot. I rebuild engines alot while flipping cars.
But I take measurements and try to do it right, but also reuse what is actually good. Often valves are almost always reusable, pistons most of the time, but if I have to replace any, they all get replaced.
Oil pump, always replace.
Anyways, point is, rebuilt engines can definitely be great engines
..but how good was the builder?And also, once an engine has been bored out (sometimes a rebuild will do) it usually can’t be bored out again.
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