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After going through two distributors I gutted the second one and built up the old one with the parts from the new one. Ran perfectly in all respects, so since It had a leaky shaft seal which I did not switch over I went back and carefully duplicated what I did using the new dist case. What I discovered is that the height of the sensor tone wheel is critical where it slices through the horseshoe sensor block. Get it too far from the sensor side of the block (too close to the LEDs) and all hell breaks loose. Put it as close to the sensors as possible without scraping the block and it runs perfectly. The problem was that they never included the little flat washer that raises up the tone wheel in the new distributors. When I looked at the sensor output on the scope I could not tell the difference between the good and bad config. That mystery remains but the car is back on the road. My only concern is did I ratf%$#k the cat during all these shenanigans? We will see in December on the state inspection.
When I found out that loose cargo in the vehicle can trip the knock sensor raising all manor of satanic symptomry I had heard enough. That’s why I still have my 88 Isuzu Impulse and 91 Integra. Both will last forever if taken care of. I do not ask my car to sense my mood and know when to volunteer to jerk me off. The Honda makes me just as happy today as when it was new.
And when you get your 20 inch rims and window tint to go along with the new beat box in the back please post some sweet pics for us.
In my opinion most if not all of the carfix youtubers have had their moments in the plausibility department. I can see this happening for multiple reasons. One as Eric pointed out is the extra effort it takes to produce a video amidst the challenge of the repair itself. Another thing I’ve noticed is that when somebody works at a job for a long time they keep their skills polished as a function of making a living at doing only repairs. Once you’ve been away for awhile it’s just human nature to run shall we say a slightly looser ship where one might cut corners that they would never do on the job. I’ve seen it here and elsewhere. The difference with Eric, and this is one of the reasons why I can appreciate his work is that when he cuts corners he most always points it out and follows up with an explanation of what the best way is. I hope he continues to do that.
Today I connected a fuel pressure gauge and got a result that I didn’t expect. As I understand it most EFI vehicles develop fuel pressure at key on and from there it is what it is. On this one you turn the key and the FP does not run at all until you crank. Then it builds very quickly to about 50 psi. Upon starting it drops to about 35 at idle but as soon as you come off the TPS home position by touching the throttle it jumps back up to 50. There is a FP relay which when removed will not allow the car to run but it will always start and die unless you hold the key to crank with the clutch out so the starter goes off then it will run until you let go of the key. There is another identical relay with no identification as to what it’s for so I swapped them to no avail. An added note: at idle the fuel pressure gauge bounces very rapidly between about 25 and 45 psi. As soon as you touch the throttle it instantly smooths out at 50 until the engine returns to idle.
Thank you. I would not have guessed about those items. I have the weekend and will give it a shot and report back.
It’s been a great little warm fuzzy spin and I enjoy it even when it’s not my birthday. I couldn’t think of a way to update it without going outside the walls of family-oriented correctness. Maybe just do it once in awhile or maybe just on Christmas or something.
Thank you for your reply. I have read the articles regarding Honda idle issues as I had to solve idle hunting myself but it was very slightly miss-adjusted valves (too tight) that caused my idle hunting problem way back when. This one is not just an idle problem but more of an intermittent repeatable performance/driveability issue that doesn’t seem to fit any mold that I’ve read about so far.
Thank you for your reply. I have read the articles regarding Honda idle issues as I had to solve idle hunting myself but it was very slightly miss-adjusted valves (too tight) that caused my idle hunting problem way back when. This one is not just an idle problem but more of an intermittent repeatable performance/driveability issue that doesn’t seem to fit any mold that I’ve read about so far.