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What a strange world you lived in. It sounds like a movie.
According to this inflation calculator:
“What cost $10 in 1950 would cost $95.51 in 2013.
Also, if you were to buy exactly the same products in 2013 and 1950,
they would cost you $10 and $1.05 respectively.”Oh that sounds awesome. I could only dream of spending a night in a hospital and paying only $100. It’d be cheaper than the Holiday Inn, and I could fake pain and get a morphine drip! Haha oh I’m sad again, because that hospital trip actually cost $10,000, and I’ve been contemplating selling my kidney on the black market for money. (I kid.)
Oh no way. All those small 4-cyl. engines and transmissions are pretty much the same, under 2 liters, FWD, etc. You know, that ancient spec of 10W-30, most cars back then used 10W-30. But 10W-30 is pretty much obsolete now and almost no modern cars run it. Motor oil has just gotten space ages ahead of what it used to be. Most Fords used to call for 5W-30, but now most of them, even the biggest baddest engine will take 5W-20, which if you had said that twenty years ago, they would have called you crazy and said it was too thin. Now Ford says that even older Fords, ten or so years, that say 5W-30 on the oil cap, can take today’s 5W-20. Toyota the same thing, and I’m sure other manufacturers. A lot of older Toyotas will say 5W-30 on the cap, but now Toyota says you can use 5W-20 or 0W-20, depending on your climate (Alaska or South Florida).
I know a guy who puts 0W-20 motor oil IN HIS MANUAL TRANSMISSION GEARBOX. Lol, it’s a Geo Metro, and he hasn’t had any problems. He did it for fuel economy gains. You can head right over to Ecomodder to be introduced to that wild world. I think those guys are cooler than the guys with their ridiculous Hondas scraping every speed bump and small pebble in town. Instead of modifying their cars to be faster and more obnoxious and loud, they modify their cars for incredible fuel economy gains. Gasoline engine cars getting upwards of 80mpg, no joke.
Anyway, Amsoil Synchromesh is supposed to be 5W-30 in weight, and it is a manual transmission fluid, and it’ll be great in your 1990 Civic. If you’d like to learn more about engine oil, and how ridiculously boring it can be, go over to Bob is the oil guy, where you’ll find hundreds of mentally ill men who obsess about these details! I should know. It’s just insane and it makes me sick and I just want those hours of my life back. But I did learn that Royal Purple is terrible. So that makes me feel good. Especially about that guy I knew who changed his oil every 3,000 miles with RP, lol.
Oh no way. All those small 4-cyl. engines and transmissions are pretty much the same, under 2 liters, FWD, etc. You know, that ancient spec of 10W-30, most cars back then used 10W-30. But 10W-30 is pretty much obsolete now and almost no modern cars run it. Motor oil has just gotten space ages ahead of what it used to be. Most Fords used to call for 5W-30, but now most of them, even the biggest baddest engine will take 5W-20, which if you had said that twenty years ago, they would have called you crazy and said it was too thin. Now Ford says that even older Fords, ten or so years, that say 5W-30 on the oil cap, can take today’s 5W-20. Toyota the same thing, and I’m sure other manufacturers. A lot of older Toyotas will say 5W-30 on the cap, but now Toyota says you can use 5W-20 or 0W-20, depending on your climate (Alaska or South Florida).
I know a guy who puts 0W-20 motor oil IN HIS MANUAL TRANSMISSION GEARBOX. Lol, it’s a Geo Metro, and he hasn’t had any problems. He did it for fuel economy gains. You can head right over to Ecomodder to be introduced to that wild world. I think those guys are cooler than the guys with their ridiculous Hondas scraping every speed bump and small pebble in town. Instead of modifying their cars to be faster and more obnoxious and loud, they modify their cars for incredible fuel economy gains. Gasoline engine cars getting upwards of 80mpg, no joke.
Anyway, Amsoil Synchromesh is supposed to be 5W-30 in weight, and it is a manual transmission fluid, and it’ll be great in your 1990 Civic. If you’d like to learn more about engine oil, and how ridiculously boring it can be, go over to Bob is the oil guy, where you’ll find hundreds of mentally ill men who obsess about these details! I should know. It’s just insane and it makes me sick and I just want those hours of my life back. But I did learn that Royal Purple is terrible. So that makes me feel good. Especially about that guy I knew who changed his oil every 3,000 miles with RP, lol.
Yeah I just used a 1″ wrench (25.4mm or ~26mm) adjusting the rear toe on a Pontiac today. I do use a 16mm socket quite often on drain plugs on American cars like Fords because it’s a 5/8 of course. (5/8 inch = 15.88mm)
I use 13/16″ (20.64mm), 15/16″ (23.81mm), and 1″ 24mm wrenches on alignments a lot. They basically cross over to 21mm, 22mm, 24mm and are more than close enough (maybe the 13/16″ is a little too small.) Buy a nice six-point Gearwrench set of wrenches like this one that has both SAE and Metric: http://thecoolesttools.com/gearwrench-28pc-6-point-metricsae-master-wrench-set-sk-superkrome-13pc-set/
I almost never use a 12-point wrench and feel much more comfortable with 6-point. I’ve rounded off bolts with 12-point before but never with a six-point. Spline/Universal wrenches/sockets have been tried and tested, and though at first I was skeptical, they’re the real deal, and I trust spline/universal much much more than 12-point.
Did use a 7mm wrench last week on a GM coolant bleeder valve so that came in handy. You should be set with a set like that one.
Yeah I just used a 1″ wrench (25.4mm or ~26mm) adjusting the rear toe on a Pontiac today. I do use a 16mm socket quite often on drain plugs on American cars like Fords because it’s a 5/8 of course. (5/8 inch = 15.88mm)
I use 13/16″ (20.64mm), 15/16″ (23.81mm), and 1″ 24mm wrenches on alignments a lot. They basically cross over to 21mm, 22mm, 24mm and are more than close enough (maybe the 13/16″ is a little too small.) Buy a nice six-point Gearwrench set of wrenches like this one that has both SAE and Metric: http://thecoolesttools.com/gearwrench-28pc-6-point-metricsae-master-wrench-set-sk-superkrome-13pc-set/
I almost never use a 12-point wrench and feel much more comfortable with 6-point. I’ve rounded off bolts with 12-point before but never with a six-point. Spline/Universal wrenches/sockets have been tried and tested, and though at first I was skeptical, they’re the real deal, and I trust spline/universal much much more than 12-point.
Did use a 7mm wrench last week on a GM coolant bleeder valve so that came in handy. You should be set with a set like that one.
There was a definite quality difference between the German made Volkswagens and the Mexican made ones, the gasoline engines and the diesel engines. Nonetheless, European cars are worse than American cars if you ask me (and American cars are terrible), except the maybe the diesels. Oh I hate them with a fierce, fierce passion.
There was a definite quality difference between the German made Volkswagens and the Mexican made ones, the gasoline engines and the diesel engines. Nonetheless, European cars are worse than American cars if you ask me (and American cars are terrible), except the maybe the diesels. Oh I hate them with a fierce, fierce passion.
I use an ELM327 scanner and the Carista app. Very barebones and basic, and it doesn’t read all codes. But it can erase and get your main codes. I have the $5 Torque app and I never use it and it wasn’t worth it for my uses.
I use an ELM327 scanner and the Carista app. Very barebones and basic, and it doesn’t read all codes. But it can erase and get your main codes. I have the $5 Torque app and I never use it and it wasn’t worth it for my uses.
Amsoil Synchromesh baby! Do it! Same weight as 5W-30. It’s all I’ve used in my small manual transmission cars. It can even increase your fuel economy. If you had some degraded, super thick 75W-90 or something gear oil in there that shouldn’t be in there, and replace it with Amsoil Synchromesh, you’ll see a world of difference. Get your MPG readings before and after. That’s the most satisfying part. My Ford Festiva actually called for ATF in the Manual Gearbox in the owner’s manual, but like I was going to do that, pft. But at the end of the day, it shouldn’t make too much of a difference. But there is a world of research and conflicting opinions and favorite fluids people have, like GM Sychromesh/Pennzoil Synchromesh and this, that and the other. At the end of the day, just put some fluid in, and live and let live.
The 10W-30 specification is 25 years old. Today’s advanced fluids, and Amsoil’s Synchromesh will be like space age rocket fuel for your 1990 Honda. It’ll be great.
Amsoil Synchromesh baby! Do it! Same weight as 5W-30. It’s all I’ve used in my small manual transmission cars. It can even increase your fuel economy. If you had some degraded, super thick 75W-90 or something gear oil in there that shouldn’t be in there, and replace it with Amsoil Synchromesh, you’ll see a world of difference. Get your MPG readings before and after. That’s the most satisfying part. My Ford Festiva actually called for ATF in the Manual Gearbox in the owner’s manual, but like I was going to do that, pft. But at the end of the day, it shouldn’t make too much of a difference. But there is a world of research and conflicting opinions and favorite fluids people have, like GM Sychromesh/Pennzoil Synchromesh and this, that and the other. At the end of the day, just put some fluid in, and live and let live.
The 10W-30 specification is 25 years old. Today’s advanced fluids, and Amsoil’s Synchromesh will be like space age rocket fuel for your 1990 Honda. It’ll be great.
It’s fun for a few years, but a lot of people burn out. I’ll admit I think I am. Plan your escape. I’ve been planning mine for months. Beach town, here I come! You always want what you don’t have. I swore I said I’d kill myself if I had to work in some cubicle counting down the minutes to 5. Now I think, “Man, it’d be nice to sit on my butt all day in some air conditioned cubicle…” Heh.
It’s fun for a few years, but a lot of people burn out. I’ll admit I think I am. Plan your escape. I’ve been planning mine for months. Beach town, here I come! You always want what you don’t have. I swore I said I’d kill myself if I had to work in some cubicle counting down the minutes to 5. Now I think, “Man, it’d be nice to sit on my butt all day in some air conditioned cubicle…” Heh.
Those repair magazines are worth their weight in gold. I read something about P0420, catalyst below efficiency code. Cats are notoriously bad in Nissans and Toyotas. But this article was saying that some cats, especially in Nissans, can get a PCM reflash, and it will change the parameters or in a sense, tell the catalyst referee to turn it’s head, “nothing to see here…” and it’ll then be within limits. Maybe the original parameters were a mistake and too strict. Or maybe Nissan just wanted to avoid a costly recall or who knows what, so long as it passes the actual dyno emissions test, right? So instead of having the customer spend $500-1000 on a cat and two o2 sensors, they’ll just need a $100-125 reflash that takes a few minutes. Some techs aren’t happy about this, but how could you sleep at night knowing you cheated someone out of $1,000? Who would want to live with that?
I believe America’s tough emissions and safety standards are why we don’t have those amazing 3-cylinder diesels in Europe that get 60+ miles to the gallon. But then again, it probably also has to do with low American demand for cars like that and the different ways they calculate MPG. But when gas hits $10 a gallon, the tides will turn…
No wonder we were swamped at our smog and repair shop in CA. You couldn’t pass smog if it had a single code. Guess it made us mechanics a lot of money. Now I’m in a state that doesn’t smog, and it’s just EVAP and O2 and Catalyst and Lean code after code, and the overwhelming majority of them don’t bother ever getting it fixed. Oh if they’d only appreciate how lucky they are they aren’t in a strict smog state. Poor souls in CA worrying about the Referee and what they can and can’t do to their cars, and these guys in other states can do whatever they want. Strange world.
Those repair magazines are worth their weight in gold. I read something about P0420, catalyst below efficiency code. Cats are notoriously bad in Nissans and Toyotas. But this article was saying that some cats, especially in Nissans, can get a PCM reflash, and it will change the parameters or in a sense, tell the catalyst referee to turn it’s head, “nothing to see here…” and it’ll then be within limits. Maybe the original parameters were a mistake and too strict. Or maybe Nissan just wanted to avoid a costly recall or who knows what, so long as it passes the actual dyno emissions test, right? So instead of having the customer spend $500-1000 on a cat and two o2 sensors, they’ll just need a $100-125 reflash that takes a few minutes. Some techs aren’t happy about this, but how could you sleep at night knowing you cheated someone out of $1,000? Who would want to live with that?
I believe America’s tough emissions and safety standards are why we don’t have those amazing 3-cylinder diesels in Europe that get 60+ miles to the gallon. But then again, it probably also has to do with low American demand for cars like that and the different ways they calculate MPG. But when gas hits $10 a gallon, the tides will turn…
No wonder we were swamped at our smog and repair shop in CA. You couldn’t pass smog if it had a single code. Guess it made us mechanics a lot of money. Now I’m in a state that doesn’t smog, and it’s just EVAP and O2 and Catalyst and Lean code after code, and the overwhelming majority of them don’t bother ever getting it fixed. Oh if they’d only appreciate how lucky they are they aren’t in a strict smog state. Poor souls in CA worrying about the Referee and what they can and can’t do to their cars, and these guys in other states can do whatever they want. Strange world.