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Viewing 15 replies - 106 through 120 (of 162 total)
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  • in reply to: 1993 Honda Accord 2.3L IACV #544463
    Bryan HallBryan
    Participant

      In my experience, Hondas are really, REALLY picky about parts in general.

      Use a non-OEM fluid in your transmission, and the trans WILL let you know about it.

      Use a non-OEM O2 sensor? Good luck on it EVER working right. It might, but 90% don’t, it seems.

      As expensive as it is, I’d get the OEM, if I intended to keep the car until the wheels fell off (and the wheels were a way away from that fate).

      If the car is on its last gasp and you’re just trying to eke out a few more months, then the aftermarket Denso will do. Otherwise… OEM.

      That’s my .02…

      -Hinoki

      in reply to: Well I really may have stepped in it this time… #543409
      Bryan HallBryan
      Participant

        Toyota, this might be the one and ONLY time I ever disagree with you…

        JB-Weld, especially the really good stuff, can handle very high heat and pressure. You can sand it, drill it, paint it, whatever..

        It’s feasible to fill it in with JB and re-drill/tap the hole out to fit the bolt. I know of others that have engines held together with the goop.. if you get the good stuff, then it should be okay.

        But +1 to you anyway, for the OP should forever more be watching that bolt hole like a bloody hawk.

        Cheers!

        -Hinoki

        in reply to: Well I really may have stepped in it this time… #548045
        Bryan HallBryan
        Participant

          Toyota, this might be the one and ONLY time I ever disagree with you…

          JB-Weld, especially the really good stuff, can handle very high heat and pressure. You can sand it, drill it, paint it, whatever..

          It’s feasible to fill it in with JB and re-drill/tap the hole out to fit the bolt. I know of others that have engines held together with the goop.. if you get the good stuff, then it should be okay.

          But +1 to you anyway, for the OP should forever more be watching that bolt hole like a bloody hawk.

          Cheers!

          -Hinoki

          in reply to: 2001 GMC Sonoma 2.2L Engine Replacement Series #537238
          Bryan HallBryan
          Participant

            Gah!

            I was settling in to watch part 5 and saw that you’d pulled it! Or at least, that’s hat YouTube claimed.

            Hope all is okay!

            -Hinoki

            in reply to: 2001 GMC Sonoma 2.2L Engine Replacement Series #541103
            Bryan HallBryan
            Participant

              Gah!

              I was settling in to watch part 5 and saw that you’d pulled it! Or at least, that’s hat YouTube claimed.

              Hope all is okay!

              -Hinoki

              in reply to: Overheat and misfire with a/c on. Need help! #535170
              Bryan HallBryan
              Participant

                Coolant doesn’t really evaporate. It’s a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol (or something similar) and water.. and glycol doesn’t evaporate.

                If you’ve had to put in 1.5 gallons, those 1.5 gallons had to have gone somewhere.

                I’d really recommend starting to look at your head gasket, oil, and the like.. as with that bad an overheat, the head gasket really IS sounding likely. Possible warped heads, too.

                -Hinoki

                in reply to: Overheat and misfire with a/c on. Need help! #538634
                Bryan HallBryan
                Participant

                  Coolant doesn’t really evaporate. It’s a 50/50 mix of ethylene glycol (or something similar) and water.. and glycol doesn’t evaporate.

                  If you’ve had to put in 1.5 gallons, those 1.5 gallons had to have gone somewhere.

                  I’d really recommend starting to look at your head gasket, oil, and the like.. as with that bad an overheat, the head gasket really IS sounding likely. Possible warped heads, too.

                  -Hinoki

                  in reply to: 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GL 2.0 crank and no start #531925
                  Bryan HallBryan
                  Participant

                    That could be….

                    I apologize for not putting more info out there, but as I might’ve said, I’ve spent all weekend (and gotten very little sleep) as I worked on this.

                    Plugs 1 and 4? Crusty white stuff and the eroded electrode.
                    Plugs 2 and 3? Dark and wet, no white stuff to be found. THOUGHT it was just oil, but now..? Now, I’m wondering.

                    Heck, I just licked the spark plug to see if it tasted sweet. Yeah, I’m THAT tired…

                    -hinoki

                    in reply to: 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GL 2.0 crank and no start #535301
                    Bryan HallBryan
                    Participant

                      That could be….

                      I apologize for not putting more info out there, but as I might’ve said, I’ve spent all weekend (and gotten very little sleep) as I worked on this.

                      Plugs 1 and 4? Crusty white stuff and the eroded electrode.
                      Plugs 2 and 3? Dark and wet, no white stuff to be found. THOUGHT it was just oil, but now..? Now, I’m wondering.

                      Heck, I just licked the spark plug to see if it tasted sweet. Yeah, I’m THAT tired…

                      -hinoki

                      in reply to: 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GL 2.0 crank and no start #531918
                      Bryan HallBryan
                      Participant

                        Evening, Toyota! Thanks for the quick response!

                        I did peel back the timing cover to look at the belt itself. It’s intact as far as I can tell. There’s some visible wear on the teeth, but I didn’t see anything totally out of whack… no visible major separation. The edges looked a bit frayed, but not as dodgey as some I’ve seen. That’s why I’m uncertain if it jumped time or not. If it had, wouldn’t the belt be already visibly tattered and shredded?

                        My little Innova 3000 scanner didn’t pick up much on the freeze-frame, but what it did see with regards to coolant temp looked within norm. Then again, the car was misfiring incredibly badly when the owner limped it to my house. Seriously awful sounding.

                        With regards to the compresson test… I can do that on Cylinders 1 and 4 because the intake manifold can remain on. 2 and 3 are obscured, and can you really do a compression test with the air intake off? I don’t see why not, but this thing is already making my hair more grey than it ought to be at 42.

                        If I can, I’ll grab the compression tester from an auto parts store… My old one broke and never needed to replace it. At least there’s no oil and coolant mixing (though he IS burning a prodigious amount of oil, and I never DID find that coolant leak he complained about..)

                        Honestly, I think the co-worker is going to come get his car and have it towed. Hopefully not before reimbursing me for the parts I put on it for him. Yeah, I know.. but I wanted to help him out. :/

                        -Hinoki

                        in reply to: 2003 Volkswagen Jetta GL 2.0 crank and no start #535296
                        Bryan HallBryan
                        Participant

                          Evening, Toyota! Thanks for the quick response!

                          I did peel back the timing cover to look at the belt itself. It’s intact as far as I can tell. There’s some visible wear on the teeth, but I didn’t see anything totally out of whack… no visible major separation. The edges looked a bit frayed, but not as dodgey as some I’ve seen. That’s why I’m uncertain if it jumped time or not. If it had, wouldn’t the belt be already visibly tattered and shredded?

                          My little Innova 3000 scanner didn’t pick up much on the freeze-frame, but what it did see with regards to coolant temp looked within norm. Then again, the car was misfiring incredibly badly when the owner limped it to my house. Seriously awful sounding.

                          With regards to the compresson test… I can do that on Cylinders 1 and 4 because the intake manifold can remain on. 2 and 3 are obscured, and can you really do a compression test with the air intake off? I don’t see why not, but this thing is already making my hair more grey than it ought to be at 42.

                          If I can, I’ll grab the compression tester from an auto parts store… My old one broke and never needed to replace it. At least there’s no oil and coolant mixing (though he IS burning a prodigious amount of oil, and I never DID find that coolant leak he complained about..)

                          Honestly, I think the co-worker is going to come get his car and have it towed. Hopefully not before reimbursing me for the parts I put on it for him. Yeah, I know.. but I wanted to help him out. :/

                          -Hinoki

                          in reply to: 1994 Accord CD7 head lamp issue #524881
                          Bryan HallBryan
                          Participant

                            This is going to sound EXTREMELY stupid, so I apologize in advance.

                            I’m suggesting this because I got bit by it once, too, on an old Pathfinder…

                            From the picture, it looks like the bulb may somehow have backed out of the housing. Have you checked to see if the bulb is mounted properly on the passenger side?

                            -Hinoki

                            in reply to: 1994 Accord CD7 head lamp issue #527867
                            Bryan HallBryan
                            Participant

                              This is going to sound EXTREMELY stupid, so I apologize in advance.

                              I’m suggesting this because I got bit by it once, too, on an old Pathfinder…

                              From the picture, it looks like the bulb may somehow have backed out of the housing. Have you checked to see if the bulb is mounted properly on the passenger side?

                              -Hinoki

                              in reply to: 95 civic engine block coolant drain bolt stuck #526260
                              Bryan HallBryan
                              Participant

                                Penetrating oil, and be very… very.. slow, careful, and deliberate about trying to get that bolt in or out.

                                I’d not leave it 1/2 in.. I’d finish it. Try going back in the opposite direction and backing it out again?

                                Good luck.. and be careful!

                                in reply to: 95 civic engine block coolant drain bolt stuck #523173
                                Bryan HallBryan
                                Participant

                                  Penetrating oil, and be very… very.. slow, careful, and deliberate about trying to get that bolt in or out.

                                  I’d not leave it 1/2 in.. I’d finish it. Try going back in the opposite direction and backing it out again?

                                  Good luck.. and be careful!

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