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Viewing 15 replies - 76 through 90 (of 162 total)
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  • in reply to: 2000 ford ranger compression problems #587363
    Bryan HallBryan
    Participant

      Yep. From an oilcan, a single shot or two of oil down the spark plug hole into the cylinder itself. That allows it to form a wet-seal around worn rings (and other problems). Don’t want to put too much in there, though.. that causes -other- issues.

      If you’re going to do it yourself, don’t forget to pull the fuel pump relay so the engine doesn’t flood too.

      Good luck!

      -Hinoki

      in reply to: 2000 ford ranger compression problems #594717
      Bryan HallBryan
      Participant

        No compression at all, huh? Doesn’t bode well…

        Okay.. I’d ask the mechanic if he put a shot of oil down the back two cylinders… see if that helps it seal anything up. If it does, then rings.. otherwise, valves.

        You might want to ask the mechanic to use a ‘scope on it.. see if he can find anything unfortunate on those back two cylinders. Otherwise, really, the next step would be to pull the heads off. In a no compression situation like that, it’s pretty much a fact of life that the heads have to come off.

        Hopefully when you have them pulled, what you find underneath is repairable. Could be a head gasket, could be a bunch of things… won’t know until you have a look.

        -Hinoki

        in reply to: 2000 ford ranger compression problems #587341
        Bryan HallBryan
        Participant

          No compression at all, huh? Doesn’t bode well…

          Okay.. I’d ask the mechanic if he put a shot of oil down the back two cylinders… see if that helps it seal anything up. If it does, then rings.. otherwise, valves.

          You might want to ask the mechanic to use a ‘scope on it.. see if he can find anything unfortunate on those back two cylinders. Otherwise, really, the next step would be to pull the heads off. In a no compression situation like that, it’s pretty much a fact of life that the heads have to come off.

          Hopefully when you have them pulled, what you find underneath is repairable. Could be a head gasket, could be a bunch of things… won’t know until you have a look.

          -Hinoki

          in reply to: 1994 euro hatch (1.2 monopoint) start-up issues #570197
          Bryan HallBryan
          Participant

            Hey, TM45!

            Thought about this, and I think I know what’s going on.

            Before I give you my guess, let me ask a question or two.
            1) After your 5 minute drive to the store, how long does your car sit before you try starting it again? Five minutes? Ten? Less? More?

            2) Have you tried asking a mate to try and start the car while you’re holding the valves open on the carburetor? (Is that even possible with this one? I’m not very familiar with a fuel-injected carb like you’re describing).

            3) Have you tried waiting another five minutes after arriving at the store before shutting your car down? If so, did it still have difficulty starting?

            4) Have you tried adding a spray of starter fluid into the carburetor or airbox?

            Now on to what I’m GUESSING is going on, here. I’m reasonably sure you’re vapor-locking the carburetor, fuel lines, or fuel pump itself.

            Here’s a link to another forum with a vehicle that was having very similar symptoms with the same resolution (Short drive followed by an hour-long wait, and it’ll start ok).

            http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=593616

            Try mitigating this by more thoroughly warming the car up before shutting her down, and check the routing of the fuel lines to see where they are in relation to the exhaust. They might be vapor-locking, as might the carb. If it does die on you again, try ventilating the carb by holding open the valve plates (if this is even feasible on this particular arrangement).

            Good luck, and keep us posted!

            -Hinoki

            in reply to: 1994 euro hatch (1.2 monopoint) start-up issues #576707
            Bryan HallBryan
            Participant

              Hey, TM45!

              Thought about this, and I think I know what’s going on.

              Before I give you my guess, let me ask a question or two.
              1) After your 5 minute drive to the store, how long does your car sit before you try starting it again? Five minutes? Ten? Less? More?

              2) Have you tried asking a mate to try and start the car while you’re holding the valves open on the carburetor? (Is that even possible with this one? I’m not very familiar with a fuel-injected carb like you’re describing).

              3) Have you tried waiting another five minutes after arriving at the store before shutting your car down? If so, did it still have difficulty starting?

              4) Have you tried adding a spray of starter fluid into the carburetor or airbox?

              Now on to what I’m GUESSING is going on, here. I’m reasonably sure you’re vapor-locking the carburetor, fuel lines, or fuel pump itself.

              Here’s a link to another forum with a vehicle that was having very similar symptoms with the same resolution (Short drive followed by an hour-long wait, and it’ll start ok).

              http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=593616

              Try mitigating this by more thoroughly warming the car up before shutting her down, and check the routing of the fuel lines to see where they are in relation to the exhaust. They might be vapor-locking, as might the carb. If it does die on you again, try ventilating the carb by holding open the valve plates (if this is even feasible on this particular arrangement).

              Good luck, and keep us posted!

              -Hinoki

              in reply to: Bad tie rod ends??? #568162
              Bryan HallBryan
              Participant

                See if this helps:

                That’ll help isolate the noise and help pin down if it’s a tie-rod, ball joint, or cv. 🙂

                -Hinoki

                in reply to: Bad tie rod ends??? #574543
                Bryan HallBryan
                Participant

                  See if this helps:

                  That’ll help isolate the noise and help pin down if it’s a tie-rod, ball joint, or cv. 🙂

                  -Hinoki

                  in reply to: 08 VW R32 Brake squeal noise #567684
                  Bryan HallBryan
                  Participant

                    Y’know, this sounds like the brakes are sticking or dragging…

                    I’d pull the calipers and grease the slide pins with silicone paste.

                    I’d also check to see if the calipers are actually functioning normally and aren’t permanently extended.

                    REALLY surprised the shop didn’t do that themselves…

                    But have a look, grease those pins up well. Make sure the pad backing plate isn’t separated from the pad material and dragging along the hat of the rotor.

                    Good luck!

                    -Hinoki

                    in reply to: 08 VW R32 Brake squeal noise #574019
                    Bryan HallBryan
                    Participant

                      Y’know, this sounds like the brakes are sticking or dragging…

                      I’d pull the calipers and grease the slide pins with silicone paste.

                      I’d also check to see if the calipers are actually functioning normally and aren’t permanently extended.

                      REALLY surprised the shop didn’t do that themselves…

                      But have a look, grease those pins up well. Make sure the pad backing plate isn’t separated from the pad material and dragging along the hat of the rotor.

                      Good luck!

                      -Hinoki

                      in reply to: 2011 Nissan Versa maintenance question #567016
                      Bryan HallBryan
                      Participant

                        Thanks, CollegeMan.. much appreciated.

                        That’s what I thought, but it never hurts just to make sure.

                        Versa’s got the 6MT on it.. the CVT paired with a 1.8 is about as anemic as you could imagine. ^_^

                        Thanks again, Sir!

                        -Hinoki

                        in reply to: 2011 Nissan Versa maintenance question #573310
                        Bryan HallBryan
                        Participant

                          Thanks, CollegeMan.. much appreciated.

                          That’s what I thought, but it never hurts just to make sure.

                          Versa’s got the 6MT on it.. the CVT paired with a 1.8 is about as anemic as you could imagine. ^_^

                          Thanks again, Sir!

                          -Hinoki

                          in reply to: Inlet Manifold diesel fiesta #566558
                          Bryan HallBryan
                          Participant

                            I submit this both as a semi-serious answer…

                            …. and to see the reactions of the rest of the crew.

                            Please note, I don’t actually recommend doing this, but it DOES work. A friend of mine did this while I watched.. If you choose to go this route, make -very- sure you keep the towel wet.

                            (I’d -really- recommend the oven-cleaner and brush route, though).

                            -Hinoki

                            in reply to: Inlet Manifold diesel fiesta #572870
                            Bryan HallBryan
                            Participant

                              I submit this both as a semi-serious answer…

                              …. and to see the reactions of the rest of the crew.

                              Please note, I don’t actually recommend doing this, but it DOES work. A friend of mine did this while I watched.. If you choose to go this route, make -very- sure you keep the towel wet.

                              (I’d -really- recommend the oven-cleaner and brush route, though).

                              -Hinoki

                              in reply to: Requiem for a 2005 Kia Spectra #563212
                              Bryan HallBryan
                              Participant

                                Also… it didn’t actually overheat. They saw the needle heading up past the normal position.. it ..

                                well, now that I think about it, it could be him not wanting to fess up to how badly it overheated. There’s really no way for me to tell, is there!

                                Regardless, thanks for the input. 🙂

                                -Hinoki

                                in reply to: Requiem for a 2005 Kia Spectra #569455
                                Bryan HallBryan
                                Participant

                                  Also… it didn’t actually overheat. They saw the needle heading up past the normal position.. it ..

                                  well, now that I think about it, it could be him not wanting to fess up to how badly it overheated. There’s really no way for me to tell, is there!

                                  Regardless, thanks for the input. 🙂

                                  -Hinoki

                                Viewing 15 replies - 76 through 90 (of 162 total)
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