Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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I’m gonna come down firmly on the camp of ‘DO NOT START IT’.
Starting it with the timing chain in the state its in is akin to pulling the pin of a hand grenade and spending the next four seconds deciding which hand to throw it with.
You’re dealing with something that not only can.. but WILL destroy your engine if it is done wrong. It really isn’t worth taking the chance.
Much as I can tell you’re reluctant to throw in the towel, you may wish to consider flat-bedding the car to your local mechanic and letting them have a look. Something’s off, and you’ve done quite a bit of research and working on it. Given the risk to the continued viability of your engine, and given that diagnosing and assisting with repairs remotely.. personally? If it were mine, I’d take it in.
-Hinoki
Are you -certain- it is a genuine chain? I don’t know the company you mentioned, but it’s kinda creepy. I’d just finished reading an article dealing with a counterfeit IWIS timing chain and can’t help but wonder if you got one too.
Here’s a snippet of the article I’d read:
Before reaching out to the manufacturer of the real chain I did a little testing for myself. These fake chains weigh more than OEM chains (.5 oz) and have more lateral play then an OEM chain as well +/-10 degrees… Given what you said about it not lining up right….Here’s the article: https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/3sp9rn/fake_timing_chain_thanks_northside_imports_inc/
You might want to read it, as it has a few pictures of what the stamped logo for a IWIS timing chain really looks like.
Just a thought.
-Hinoki
No, oil there isn’t normal.
Personally, I’d check PCV valve to see if that’s gummed up and you might not be getting a bit of blow-by as a result.
Also check MAF sensor and look for vacuum leaks; both of those can cause really strange idles and such.
-Hinoki
Lots and lots and lots of oil changes, very close together.
The problem is that doing so won’t solve the problem. If you’ve got metal shavings in the oil, your engine is trying to fill out it’s last will and testament.
If you don’t address the root cause, you’ll be facing catastrophic failure in short order.
-Hinoki
I wonder if this is a good thing. From some perspectives it is, because…
Cost of 2016 Ford F-150 with a 3.5 V6: 30,000.00
I guess if the body is solid, then why NOT drop a motor/trans in? 6500 in engine/trans seems a lot better than 30k to replace the truck. So long as you keep up on the maintenance, it should last you a good long while, right?
That folds back into the other thought. Find a solid body older truck, and so long as it has the features you want and it’s in good body-shape, electrical, etc.. then wouldn’t it still be worth it to buy and fix?
I dunno. Been one of those days at work and maybe I’m just not seeing straight any more. I just can’t see forking over 30-40k for a truck when you can get an older one and fix it for a whole heck of a lot less.
Hinoki
Pressure.
When it’s in gear, things are moving faster, moving harder, and that increases pressure. Things run hotter too, the viscosity of the fluid lessens.. and can come spurting out the pan gasket a lot easier.
CollegeMan is right.. the pan’s gotta come off and you need to replace the gasket for best results.
-Hinoki
Actually, it’d be even funnier if Brian simply handed Eric the camera and Eric handed Brian a wrench and let him go to town.
The fun and shenannigans of watching Brian (who may or may not know how to wrench on a car) fumble through trying to do something would be absolutely hysterical.
No slight against you, Brian, just sayin’. 🙂
-Hinoki
Honda = Acura …. and Honda’s are EXTREMELY persnickety about their parts.
In this case, it’s a good idea to go for the OE part… think of it this way. If you don’t go OE, you’re quite likely to have to do this all over again in reasonably short order.
My .02…
-Hinoki
I’d start checking for vacuum leaks, honestly. If there’s a small crack, it might be small enough to remain sealed when cold. But things expand when warm, and a vacuum leak at the wrong place at the wrong time can easily cause stumbling and stalling like you say.
Here’s a link to Eric’s ‘Finding a Vacuum leak’ video: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB4Q3ywwAGoVChMIxuKIm6HRyAIVhI4NCh34nADd&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D9CPqbaSgcok&usg=AFQjCNFUyl9bvl-_fhGP7hrPW43aPj_XgQ&sig2=r3WwgZWvUZGC1NLpwqTbxw&bvm=bv.105454873,d.eXY
Sorry about that, that’s the one I found on the YouTube, but it’ll do. 🙂
Good luck!
-Hinoki
It really depends where the dent is in relation to the oil pick up. If it’s right underneath it, then it is entirely possible that it could cause problems.
If it’s on the opposite side, then probably not… but the dent is a significant weak spot in the pan and all it takes is one more good hit with a rock and you’ve got yourself a problem.Truthfully, it’d be best all the way around to just swap the oil pan. Peace of mind, and all that.
-Hinoki
VW and analysts scampered to say ‘No, don’t sell your TDI! Don’t do it! Wait! Wait and see! We’ll fix it!”
Well, here are my thoughts on that.
1) Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.
2) The only ‘fix’ for this is to place a Diesel Exhaust Fluid (AddBlue or derivative) system to the car.
( http://www.wired.com/2015/09/vw-owners-arent-going-like-fixes-diesels/ ) That’s not gonna work. 8k for a urea system… that was never meant to run on the Jetta? Like THAT’LL work out well.3) Any fix will result in loss of power, torque, and mileage. Any fix will result in the increased operating temperature of the engine. This will cause additional wear and tear and a commensurate reduction in operational lifespan.
They don’t want you to sell because the money has always been made not on the sale of the car, but the parts and service. They want you to keep the car so you can pay them money to keep it on the road.
Already dealerships are denying anyone seeking to use a TDI as a trade-in. Try it. Try and use AutoTrader to get a value of a TDI V-dub. Can’t do it. It’s been removed entirely. If they do agree to take it, then they offer a mere pittance.
What about a buyback? Well, THAT isn’t going to happen for at least three years. During that time, your car will grow older. It will put wear on parts. It’ll have higher miles on the clock. They might buy it back, but it’ll be at FMV in three years.. and we’ve already seen that the TDI’s have taken a serious gut-punch in the resale value department. So, don’t expect much when they finally get around to buying it back in a few years. Best hope you don’t owe more on the car than they’re willing to give you, or you’re doubly stuck.
I’d get rid of them. each and every one. If you’ve got it and CAN.. get rid of it. There’s no winning this one.
I’d suggest every affected TDI owner do the same.-Hinoki
Only way to do that is to pull the thing… and if you’re gonna do that, you might as well replace it.
Stop-Leak is nasty stuff…
-Hinoki
[quote=”MDK22″ post=137152] In everyone’s opinion I should be doing IT as I am very good at it and am completely self taught. [/quote]
Let me start off by saying I am not an automotive technician. Feel free to send a Nun with a ruler over to rack my knuckles for crossing the yellow line and posting in a Technician’s Only forum.. I’ll take my lumps.
I -am- an IT Systems Administrator and Network Engineer and am completely self-taught. I am also -old-, with regards to my industry. The median age is 25 to 30, and there’s a steep drop-off past that point. I am a comparative rarity these days, being 44 and holding a well paying non-management job.
Here’s the thing. This is also the last job I will ever be able to get in my field. When I got into Computing back in the early 90’s, there were no standards. I’d been in the field for three or four years before even the most basic A+ certification came on. I got that Cert back in the day when it was permanent and you DIDN’T have to re-up it every year.
The biggest difference in the field now is that employers want that paper saying you’re certified. It doesn’t matter that I’ve got 20 years experience anymore. If I go against a young pup with a piece of paper saying he’s MCSE certified, it doesn’t matter if I’ve done the work before or not.. I will not get the job.
There are also a LOT more players on the field now than when I started, so the competition for the career-track jobs is fierce. Employers are using that piece of paper as a filter; if you have it, then you get past the HR trolls. If you don’t, then your resume disappears into the black abyss, never to be seen again.
Automotive work is a -lot- like IT work in that respect. These days, they’re demanding the schooling before you can even get a gig as a lube-tech, or if they don’t, then getting the paper, education, certs, etc. is a pre-condition for continued employment. Yes, you might be able to get a job at an independent shop where things are more loose, but there are a lot of players on the field… a lot of automotive technicians that want the job you have and are quite willing to get a piece of paper saying they’re qualified to do the job better than you can despite your experience.
The IT world and the Automotive tech world has changed drastically in the past few years, especially since the economic downturn in 2002. Quite literally, we must adapt to these changing times or face the very real possibility of being passed over for meaningful employment. Passion for your job is good, but get the job and then DEVELOP a passion for it, if you can.
Just my .02.
I await the knuckle-rapping nun with outstretched hands..
-Hinoki
Couple issues here…
1) If you delete the EGR, you’ll fail inspections if you have them.
2) You’ll almost definitely toss a CEL, so that’ll be permanently lit.
3) You’ll absolutely fail a sniffer test.Basically, emissions is there for a reason… and removing it is illegal. You also generally don’t get a lot out of deleting it, so I’d just leave it be. Sure, you’re throwing a code now (or might be), but that can be resolved with a bit more effort and troubleshooting.
Just my .02.
-Hinoki