[hernadz9]

Quoted From 619DioFan:

Glad you were able to get this problem solved. just have one question… did the mechanic who fixed it have the proper scan tool to get the brakes bleed or was he able to do it with out using a scan tool ? if he managed to bleed them w/o the scan tool there are a lot of dodge people who would love to know how. let us know please.

I didn’t ask him if he had to use a scan tool or not. I was told by him over the phone and in person (of course with some laughs) that the only problem was the calipers where on the wrong side (D’oh! lol). He said once the calipers where switch and on the correct side he bleed the brakes normally and brakes are perfect now.

Thank you all for your help!

[hernadz9]

I want to thank everyone for their help on this problem I’ve been dealing with. Well I had the car towed to a friends dad who has his own shop and he finally found the problem after scratching his head a little also.

(drum roll)…

The front calipers where on the wrong side. The bleeders where upside down and hence would not bleed correctly.

I can’t believe it lol. During painting and reassemble the calipers must have been switched on accident. And being patient but frustrated about them not bleeding right I didn’t think off starting at square one (where the bleeders mounted right side up).

Shows me still and I hope reminds you all, if something is not working the way it should and everything and everyone is telling you your doing it right, check to make sure everything is assemble correctly and in order.

Thank you all for your help during this process!
Chris (hernadz9)

[hernadz9]

Hey everyone, thank you for your responses so far! I still haven’t fixed the problem (shacking my head).

I did get the rear bleeders off with PB Blaster and was able to bleed the back end – both rear right and rear left had a great deal of air in the line as it came out. I however went in a different sequence than what dreamer2355 said to do (did not see your post until now) – I did pass rear, drive rear, pass front, driver front. However it still did not fix my problem. I also gravity bleed the front end for just over an hour before doing the manual bleeing as I stated above^^^. Heres what we did…

– Gravity bleed brake (No change)
– Bleed back end by process stated above (could this affect results?)
– Made sure brake fluid was topped off.
– Since rear end bleeding didn’t help I did a 3 cycle front end bleeding.
– Didn’t improve much so I try with the car ON position (not running); mechanic friend said that might help cycle the ABS system – Didn’t help.

So now I still have a darn soft pedal after going through 70oz of brake fluid and hours of work. My brother and I where going to drive the car to the mechanic late during the night last night, but its just to unsafe to drive.

Here are a few key things I’m finding out…
1) When car is off and manual bleeding is showing no air in the front lines.
2) After bleeders are sealed and car off pedal testing give hard pedal every time.
3) When cars on pedal goes soft again (all the way to the floor)
4) Testing braking in short distance… If pedal pushed often and in fast intervals car stops as should. If foot left off pedal for any short distance (ie 5ft) pedals soft and cant stop car.
5) I also see when car lifted and wheels off and car in Drive and brake pushed to the ground drive side front wheel doesnt spin, but passenger side does. Also even if brake is not pushed driver side does not spin wheel at all; while pass side spins fine.

response to posts…
Trcustoms719 – I wish I had a pressure bleeder. It would have made this much easier. Also tried running the engine while bleeding as you said, no big improvement.
Dreamer2355 – This 08 Avenger does have ABS. I did not see your post until now and last night I bleed them by doing (right rear, left rear, right front, left front). Do you think this could have cause my No results?
BigC – Thank you. I’m trying to provide (remember everything) I can to you guys. I did get those rear bleeders finally off enough to bleed (thank you PB Blaster)

Thank you all for your continued help!
Chris (hernadz9)

[hernadz9]

Thank you for the quick response!

Yes, he was told to keep the pedal pushed to the floor until I tighted the bleeder and was then told to lift his foot of the brake.

After having trouble bleeding the front I went to bleed the back (thinking that might help) but the bleeders are well rusted and WD40 (heard maybe use PB Blaster?) didn’t work well enough to loosen them – My wrench was going to strip them.

My friends said the air should travle to the highest point (and I knew that) – the car was jacked up in the front. So, I’m mean theory says the air should be in the front highest point, but I might have to try and get those rear bleeders off on the back. I just don’t want to stripped those rear bleeders or forbid break off.

What do you think?

Thank you!

[hernadz9]

I called a fellow mechanic of mine when I get the job done and he said to gravity bleed the system also. I understand the concept. But should I have both the front left and front right bleeder open while it bleeds itself for awhile? or just one at a time? Also should I have the ignition to the “On” position when doing so to cycle the ABS system and cylinder? (I forgot if he said to do so or not when gravity bleeding).

Thank you all
Chris

[hernadz9]

Thanks Third Gear! I’m going to try the gravity bleed on the front end first. If that does not work I’ll move to the back end and bleed normal cycle from farthest to nearest the reservoir. If it comes down to it I’ll drive the car to my mechanic who owns a shop late at night and he can give it a shoot tomorrow. I hope to bleeding your brakes does not require a trip to a dealership (cars nowadays tisk, tisk). Either way the lack of brakes would make it a hazard driving anywhere with stop lights.

[Author]

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