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This is probably not going to help much, wish I could remember, retired, disabled and just cannot remember, I fixed a couple of those with the problem, but there is a wire on the backside of the engine, single wire, sensor wire, that chaffs, one I remember was burned somehow, and grounds out, does exactly as you describe. You will have to search a little, some tape or liquid tape and its fixed. Wish I could be of more help.
From the information I am seeing the fuel pressure should be 46-51psi. Im with TANG on this, would be a good time to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, leave it on, even tape it to the windshield and watch the pressures.
http://www.reeseprod.com/products/hitch-accessories/other-accessories/UUpS26F6M9lhnyivxSQ!p08AHIB0hFpc
Look at these, be mindful of the weight limitations. I think if you are using this as a contractor/industrial duty rig, having a fabricator lengthen the trailer tongue would be a better plan. May not be as costly in the long run and ad to the functionality of your trailer.Before you agree to anything, look over your policy. See if there is any Like Kind Quality, used parts clauses. Also, most if not all insurance companies will back the work done to the car for as long as you own it, I know my policy does. If you have any concerns or feel you are being taken, contact the insurance commisioner in your state. Even a lawyer, although we all want to avoid going that route, would be a cheap one time consult to avoid headache later.
All that being said, what was stated above holds true, the insurance can, especially on an older car, use, used parts, but cannot just use junk.IOD ignition off draw. If it is out, some things like radio, dome lights, power mirrors, etc will not work. The fuse itself is not where your draw is. It is just showing up there. One of your accessories that takes time to go to sleep, though I dont remember your truck having anything like that, maybe a light, security system, something else is drawing. Start pulling other fuses till you see the drain stop. Is it killing your battery? Have you waited and watched to see how long the drain/draw last?
That depends a whole lot on your location. In my neck of the woods, most shops are at 55-65 an hour. Some larger cities I have seen 135.00. You may want to see if they will just quote you a fixed price or they may want it by the hour in case they run into a lot of rusted bolts and end up torching etc.
Is it a blown head gasket, or is the head cracked, or is there another problem with the head? Was that price for doing all the work, taking the head off, any machining, parts?
http://crankshaftsupply.com/cylhead.htm Is just one company that may have what you need if a new head is called for, and search ebay, just a quick look found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-02-03-04-05-06-BMW-325I-CYLINDER-HEAD-2-5L-801113-/191774124747?fits=Make%3ABMW|Model%3A325i&hash=item2ca6a0eacb:g:j9EAAOSwZG9WiX-Y&vxp=mtrJust about any good salvage yard should be able to hook you up with a good used one.
Dont know why it doesnt show the ebay link, just search ebay item 01 02 03 04 05 06 BMW 325I CYLINDER HEAD 2.5L 801113
As Ace said, you need to check the calipers and the rear brake cylinders and make sure they are working, as well as on the calipers checking to make sure the slides, pins are free, the calipers themselves are not stuck, on the rear, make sure the shoes are adjusted out, and all your hardware is intact. You fixed the vacuum leak, are you sure the booster is getting good vacuum?
If you where not having any issues with the cat, codes, performance, etc, have a flex coupler welded in, Last one I took by the local muffler shop was only about 60 bucks for the coupler and him welding it in. They usually keep a stock of flex pipes in hand.
The more I think, it might not even have been that much.
The fan will be turning all the time, look here http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/HaydenAuto/Documents/Cat_Imperial/2007-imperial-fan-clutches.pdf
Eric may have a video on it also.Car make, model, year? Sometimes helps jog the memory of vehicles we have worked on that we may have seen or been told of a similiar problem.
There is a shift solonoid under the console in those, have seen on different vehicles thru the years, coffee, soft drinks, etc get spilled on the console and cause all kinds of weird problems. Could have caused yours.
This is what I use http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-detail
The thing is with brake grease is not to go crazy using the stuff. Seen where people glob it on and its getting on the friction surface, running out of the boots on pins, etc. Sparing is the key.This is just my opinion. How many miles are on the car, and how long between oil changes? How long are you planning on keeping it? Again, my opinion, if you are not seeing oil leaks, if its not leaking oil onto the exhaust, and its must a damp oily spot, a quart between oil changes is not bad if it has quite a few miles on it.