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THere are lots of kits to fix cracks but most of them are for big cracks. Yours, I would get some good super glue, I buy the little tubes of Gorilla glue super glue. A very thing bead of it after cleaning the crack with some rubbing alcohol and you probably wont even be able to see it. The rubs and scratches, you could try a polishing compound but I would try toothpaste first, then a paste make of baking soda.
[quote=”mackpower” post=126263]hello eric got a problem with the ac system in this car i change the clime control inside the car the high side switch 3 plug switch fill ac with freon i jump the compressor wire comp come on geting cold but fans dont come on i swap relays still nothing dont know what else to do dont have the wire diagram am not that good on them please help.[/quote]
Need a little more info. You replaced the climate control head, Was the original not operating the cab fan, blend doors, heat settings etc? Now that you have done the work, does the ac compressor kick on and cool or do you HAVE to jumper the compressor to get anything to work, or is it just that the cooling fans at the radiator are not kicking on, or is nothing happening, no compressor, or anything? Is your blower motor in the car working? Going to have to take it a step at a time.
Check EVERY fuse. It is confusing sometimes but amazing how automakers will at times fuse a component with another circuit and its not in the circuit they say its supposed to be in their own factory manuals.
You stated you just had new tires and balanced. Look at them closely. Look at the rims and count the wheel weights they used to balance. Does one of the wheels have or seem to have a lot of weights? Seen some instances where even a new tire needed excessive amounts of weights to balance the tire and it would cause a shimmy at higher speeds. Might try to rotate the front tires to the back and see if this changes the problem.
Seen quite a few on a cold start that the alternator is under a heavy load after a start and will squeal or the belt will squeal until the alternator kind of catches up to the load.
They may be gummed up/dirty, so take some brake cleaner and squirt in them. Then squeeze the tabs as you push IN on the lines, then pull them out as you hold the tabs down. If they are brittle they may break, but you can get new ones at any auto supply.
My guess is its at a garage where they are not familiar with that engine and are not interested or able to correctly diagnose it. It also depends, and this is just looking at the parts book, because I too have not fixed one of that model, depends on whether it is dual or single over head cam. The car needs to be towed to a garage specializing in foreign makes. Ask around, may take some calls but finding the right shop will be worth it.
Ok, now if you are wanting to do this yourself, its time to put the rear up on jackstands, take both rear wheels off, do a thorough exam of the brakes, see if the rear wheel bearings are leaking or axles have excessive play. Check your u-joints and if your truck has a carrier bearing, check it. Look at the differential yoke for oil leaking or if its loose. Spin the axles, Any noise from the differential, roughness? Check the fluid level in the differential while you are at it. Good time to see if the u-joints have grease fittings also.
Is the car running normal temps or lower than normal? Still from what you describe you would be getting some heat. Sounds more like a control head problem or mode door inoperative. Might look here http://www.preludedriver.com/forum/manuals.php
And see if you can find a manual to help you find how to diagnose and repair it. I am not familiar with your car myself.My hearing is not the best, and laptop speakers are not that good, but I swear it sounds like an exhaust header leak.
Sounds more like a short to ground on the high beam circuit, but it could be a number of things. What make year, model, maybe someone has a wiring diagram we could glance at and give you a better idea.
Do you have all your paper work, work orders? I would just go back, have a cordial, matter of fact chat with the new service manager and see if there is anything you can work out.
Look hard at your battery ground to the frame/engine block. Take it off and clean it with a wire brush. Looking at the wiring diagram, the hot from the battery goes to the starter relay and splits to the ignition switch and the starter. It passes through 2 fusible links to the ignition switch. I would be looking at my grounds first.
Idle air control valve, need to take it off and clean it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v219/wildoutwhitegsr/Integra%20Info/How-To%20Clean%20Your%20IACV%20aka%20Idle%20Air%20Control%20Valve/P10102522.jpgThe Firebird came with 3 different engines that year, which do you have?
See if you can get it hooked up to a scanner that will read live data. Have seen low idle speeds cause the same problems. Compare idle speed when hot to tune up specs.
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