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You said you had voltage at the injector. Was this with the engine cranking, or just the key on? Also, have you checked the fuel pressure regulator?
If I am not mistaken, the two rotors not only are different across,but each are different sizes in the hat, those cars had two different size hubs. just go with the size you have. As for ceramic pads, I never had a problem with heat, last few years, I put them on about everything, lasted longer, quieter, cleaner.
Shutting the engine off at speed, seems to me to eliminate most problems with engine/trans. You could try rotating all the tires, but you said a shop said they “believe” the transfer case is alright. Did they drain the fluid and check for metal flakes? I think my next line of attack would be to get it up on a lift, or SAFELY on some good jackstands, put it in gear and see if you can feel, by hand, any vibration, grinding, noise from the t case.
White exhaust and your coolant dissapearing, sounds like a blown headgasket. You still could have gotten good compression readings. You can get a kit from napa or possibly other parts places to do a test for combustion gases in the radiator.
I would first go back to where you bought it and explain what happened, if they are a decent supplier they will probably warranty it. If not, looking at a picture of the bearing, should be not much of a problem to drill it out and get another stud.
On the smoke out of the exhaust, is it a bluish color or more of a white, and does it have a as I always thought of it, a sickly sweet smell?
Is this a stick shift? You have a switch on the clutch pedal or linkage also. Check at the throttle body, should be a plug with two wires for the throttle actuator motor. Does your speedometer work ok? The is the brake light switch, but also a switch for the cruise control that is separate I believe, on the brake pedal.
Does your Blazer have the 3 or 4 button 4 wheel drive buttons on the dash? Its been a while, but I do know, one of them, I think its the 4 button, the front driveshaft turns all the time, just not transmitting power. You could have either a bad ujoint, slip joint, or the cv joint on the rear of that shaft bad and binding up.
I agree with Tim, your problems are not related, usually. The fact they both started so close together, and you describing the insulation down around the engine, I think your first line of attack should should be a thorough inspection of ALL the wiring harness, looking for pulled wires, cuts, pulled connectors, blown fuses, etc. Not sure whats on your hood, but some of that insulation is pretty stiff stuff and torn loose, with the air turbulence under the hood could very well have done some wiring damage.
Im with machinist85 on this, simple first, check the fuel pressure and see what you have. I think it should be about 40 psi, but check with a service manual.
Is the leak/oil you are seeing on the outside? Sounds like the connection of the lines may be leaking then sucking air back into the system. Can you have someone push the clutch as you watch for leaks? Not much help, but a place to start.
One thing I should have mentioned, if the studs stretch that much they may still need replaced if the originals, I am not sure I would trust them. Some new bolts/studs are designed for single use, and stretch when torqued. You usually torque, then use a angle gauge to turn an additional so many degrees to a final setting. Just watch things carefully. New studs could be cheap insurance for a lot of hard work.