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some say yes you can weld with map but I could never get it to work. it took for ever to heat rod then it just wouldn’t stick. I could have been using wrong rods (I tried several ) but not happy. I just wanted to try it to see if it welded.
I have several sets in both metric and standard. My metric goes from 8mm to 28mm. I use these daily haven’t had a failure yet and I have had these for many years!
Are you sure you was on the correct stroke when you started your adjustment?
I would pull the intake check the push rods to see if any are bent. if not then i would redo the valve lash with intake off just to be sure I could see what the lifters are doing during setup.
you can collapse a lifter but i don’t know if they would push oil or not
the video pretty much told me what i already know about the vtec. Only thing is on this engine that I have it almost appears that the vtec adjusts both intake and exhaust, is this true?
I bore scoped the cylinder today just to see if I could narrow down the problem before pulling the head. I really could not get a clear enough picture of what was going on in there. There is a lot of carbon and pitting on the valves, and it looks as though the seats are sunken or are missing especially on the first exhaust valve.
Someone had stated to me that this happens often on honda. I know it happens with any aluminum head especially if overheated and seen this in air cooled bikes some Ohnan engines and on a aftermarket head. Are hondas prone to losing valve seats? I have to ask cause I’m not to familiar with hondas. But an engine is an engine to me
I’m thinking that your using to high of an octane gas. if your engine was made to run on 87 then thats what is supposed to run in it. An octane rating is the resistance to burn. the higher the octane the harder it is to burn. Now if your car runs better on a higher octane fuel then you have a carbon problem. The carbon build up is soaking up the fuel and not letting the fuel/air mixture into the combustion camber efficiently. Causing hard starting. Which is why your haveing to flood the engine to get it to start. which is causing a rough idle. I know you have mentioned you did a cleaning but it may have not been enough. Over time that carbon gets pretty stubborn and likes were it lives. My suggestion is try the seefoam again but let it soak in that intake over night. It might take awhile.
I could be way off base on this so I hope someone will chime in and either confirm or debunk me
I don’t think a timing belt would be an issue here because the problem would be there all the time not just when car is hot.
There is a few sights that have free “ASE” stile questions that you can do just to see how well you can do. The couple that I found were set up by mechanics who had taken the tests. They also had some study guides to work on. I found them by googling free ASE test.