Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
The only way is with live data. Sorry.
How about replacing belts on a SAAB.
If you ever have then you know why I only am saying 7 words.
Are the threads gone or do they just need chased? Do the plugs have aluminum on the threads? Or do the plugs not tighten down at all now?
Over the years I have had several people bring me there cars for stripped plugs. I never had much success with in car plug thread repair. I had some that lasted for years and some that tossed the plug on fire up. Its a crap shoot at best. But they do make repair kits.
My suggestion is to pull the head and take to a machine shop. There repair is much closer to permanent. That is if you feel that this car is worth that kinda expense. Right now I have a Honda (98 civic D16y8) in my driveway with its head pulled and minus the valves I had to put in it I’m over $200 just in the head gasket set and head blots. Plus alot of other little things that add up fast like some heater hoses, oil and filter, and coolant.
Hyundai is the same way. filter in the tank one the fuel pump pick up. But I questioned Hyundai on this on what microns this filter keeps out. I really wish I could remember the facts that they gave me. But basically was told that the filter sock in the tank filters the big stuff and the screens on the injectors get the rest. I was also told by Hyundai that on average the fuel pump doesn’t last much past 100000 miles or ten years. At which time the sock should be replaced. My guess is just when the warranty ends the pump dies.
They will offer all warranties with this car. My mom has bought three cars thought the years and all were dealer demos. She would rather pay less for a brand new car and let the dealership take the initial loss. Most were about 5000 under sticker. Her last car is a Acura TSX it now has 160000 on it and never had a problem. Her first dealer demo was a 98 civic ex and its sitting in my driveway with 210000 miles it didnt have any issues til an overheat problem at about 208000 mile and it cooked some vavles. Just food for thought
Quoted From Beefy:
I would check for vacuum leaks. Those engines along with the 3.1/3.4 v6’s were known for lower intake gasket failures. Here’s a video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok
Good luck.
Shouldn’t an intake gasket leak be more prone on a cold engine and then gradually get better as the car warms up. This problem he his having is a warm weather warm start up problem. Intake gasket would be all the time but better or not as bad on a warm engine.
If you live in a cold weather area that uses a winter blend gas it could be just this. If you let your tank down to 1/2 or less the gas will actually start to cause a vapor lock condition. Especially on a return system.
Try keeping your tank full and see what happens and wait for the summer blend to come out. You can also try releasing the pressure at the fuel rail and listen for air escaping just before the gas comes out. Be careful when trying this. See if car runs better after.Quoted From johnzcarz:
It doesn’t do anything a multi-meter, test light, and a pair of long leads won’t do – but it does all that in 1 tool. It’s a handy tool to have, would definitely help speed things up if you are a technician, but not an absolute necessity if you are just starting out.
I agree
also I have to say also that read all instructions and be careful cause you can get in some trouble with this, but with that said once you do learn this tool it is a time saver for sure71 chevy 1/2 ton 4×4
307 v8, 3 on the tree (3 speed manual trans with shifter on the steering column)
What a gutless piece of rusted out poop. But it got me around for awhile and my guess is it got around 5mpg and about 5 miles per quart of oil!
I beleive the hub has to be beat off with a hammer. But I really think they should come the hubs on new drums already
rust was the factor here. When I went after the bolts that held the bracket the the bolts went on a diet losing several waist sizes. So actually by removing the intake with the head gave me the room to attack the bolts and get them off without to much difficulty.
Thanks again because You have helped by saying to remove the oil filter and that really opened up some space. I don’t think I would have thought of that.
This is whats great about picking someone’s brain that has done work on something that you might not be familiar with. Having many years of experience working on cars I could count on one hand how many honda’s I worked on and nothing to this extent.
Thanks again!
I tried from all angles, above, below, from the side even tried standing on my head. I did try pulling that bracket but the lower bolts proved to be very stubborn. now that everything was off I was able to remove the intake bracket so it will be off when I put engine back together. thanks for all the help.
so head is off it looks like a brunt/cracked exhaust valve and seat is looking really bad.
because this car is so new I would go back to the dealer and talk with them. There may be a TSB or they may be having this problem with this engine and can recommend what you can do. You don’t want to do anything that might void the warranty. This way it covers your butt if there is something wrong with car or if you are doing something wrong.
could not get center nut so pulled intake on head. Thanks. wasn’t heavy at all I just really think its going to be a pain in the butt to replace with intake on
-
AuthorReplies