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It does have one of those plastic quick disconnect fittings where the heater hose mounts to the intake manifold. Once I took it apart a little better to see how the intake manifold mounts in here, it leaves me scratching my head. As you can see in the pictures on my original post, the antifreeze is on top of the intake manifold. It was pooling around where the quick disconnect fitting is. Sorry for the lack of mechanical terms here but there was a rectangular box ( i want to call it map sensor maybe) It mounts on a bracket which mounts onto a stud which goes through the intake manifold. You can see where the bracket bolts onto a stud and you can even see some of the sensor itself in my picture in my first post. This rectangular box has a vacuum line that goes from the throttle body to this box. Anyways, I removed this bracket with the box still attached so I could better see down in there. I removed the stud that goes through the intake manifold in the same spot.
I cleaned everything up the best I could, and started the engine. I could see anti freeze starting to seep out where the intake manifold bolts on. This was seeping out were I removed the bolt. I let it run for awhile and the only spot that was leaking was the intake manifold where the stud was removed. I shut the engine off, cleaned up around where the leak had started and put the stud back in and tightened it up. restarted the engine and went under to look for leaks. I also wiped the antifreeze from the bottom while I was down there. Let it run for awhile about 20 minutes and I didn’t see the intake manifold leaking at all where it was when the stud was removed. After letting it run for awhile, still no more leaks. I put everything back together and I am going to drive it some, and clean the garage floor up and see if its leaking when I get back.
What confuses me is that it almost couldn’t be the intake manifold gasket. Because in order for the antifreeze to leak out the gasket, it would have to defy gravity and work its way up on top of the intake manifold where it was pooling originally.
I poked around all the heater core lines with the truck running and didn’t see any leakage. It doesn’t appear the t stat is leaking and running back the intake manifold either It just seems concentrated in that one corner.
Just wanted to give you guys an update. Sorry for this being so long. First off big thanks to Wrench Turner and College Man. You guys helped point me in the right direction. The truck came from NJ and unfortunately for me the chassis and everything else has a nice coating of surface rust. I believe it was probably used as a boat over in NJ. I started the job Friday night of removing the tank. I siphoned out almost 20 gallons of gas. I really expected it to have a lot less gas in than that as I did drive it a lot.
I coated the tank strap bolts on Wednesday with liquid wrench and than resprayed them on Friday. I got them both to spin without breaking and I thought I was out of the woods. Unfortunately they just both kept spinning. They went through the frame and there was a nut on top that I believe was supposed to be attached to a clip to hold the nut from spinning. Well that didn’t work so well and I spent longer than I really should have trying to get them out.
After spending way too much time on these bolts I made the decision to have to cut them out. Scary as it was, it was pretty much my last resort. I brought a box fan and aimed it at the tank to help blow away the fumes and started cutting. Eventually with the aid of a big hammer, they gave up the fight and I managed not to blow myself up. The next hurdle was getting the tank loose from the frame. Even with the straps removed, it would not budge. I believe even if the tank was full of gas (30 gallons) and I drove the truck down the bumpiest road that the tank never would have let loose. It was on there that good.
It also gave in after I had at it with a pry bar. I made lots of progress prying from the rear of the tank down. The sending unit was so rusted up, I inadvertently broke one of the metal lines that come out from the sending unit. I than purposely broke the other. Once the tank was out of the way, I was able to get two line wrenches on what was left of the fuel fittings and get them out. Once the tank was out, everything else went smooth as silk. The inside of the tank was in amazing condition. Oh, by the way, when I was taking the tank out I heard something metal rattling around in it. Any guess what it was? The fuel sending unit float arm was laying in the bottom of the tank. It appears the little plastic tab that go on each side of the float arm broke off .
I installed the new sending unit, went to tractor supply and bought two long bolts with washers, lock washers and nuts. I reinstalled the tank enough to hook up the electrical connections to test the sending unit and voila, my gas gauge read correctly. I did want to replace the fuel pump at the same time, however I am so broke right now even the sending unit was a hard pill to swallow so I couldn’t do that at this time. On the plus side, I have got brand new bolts and nuts in there with anti seize so if and when the pump fails, I shouldn’t have nearly as hard as a time that I did this time getting stuff loose.
So all in all I got it done. The rust made it much harder than it should have been but we all know how that goes. I would say I spent 6 hours on it. Probably half of that was fighting with the bolts and the other half was siphoning the gas out into little containers.I was also able to check my coolant temp switch the same way by grounding it to the frame. It also was not working. Now I replaced that and all the gauges are working.
Thanks a million Wrench Turner and College Man. You guys really help me get this problem solved. Also Eric, thanks for all the helpful videos you make. I learn a lot from watching your videos and appreciate you taking the time to make them.
Just wanted to give you guys an update. Sorry for this being so long. First off big thanks to Wrench Turner and College Man. You guys helped point me in the right direction. The truck came from NJ and unfortunately for me the chassis and everything else has a nice coating of surface rust. I believe it was probably used as a boat over in NJ. I started the job Friday night of removing the tank. I siphoned out almost 20 gallons of gas. I really expected it to have a lot less gas in than that as I did drive it a lot.
I coated the tank strap bolts on Wednesday with liquid wrench and than resprayed them on Friday. I got them both to spin without breaking and I thought I was out of the woods. Unfortunately they just both kept spinning. They went through the frame and there was a nut on top that I believe was supposed to be attached to a clip to hold the nut from spinning. Well that didn’t work so well and I spent longer than I really should have trying to get them out.
After spending way too much time on these bolts I made the decision to have to cut them out. Scary as it was, it was pretty much my last resort. I brought a box fan and aimed it at the tank to help blow away the fumes and started cutting. Eventually with the aid of a big hammer, they gave up the fight and I managed not to blow myself up. The next hurdle was getting the tank loose from the frame. Even with the straps removed, it would not budge. I believe even if the tank was full of gas (30 gallons) and I drove the truck down the bumpiest road that the tank never would have let loose. It was on there that good.
It also gave in after I had at it with a pry bar. I made lots of progress prying from the rear of the tank down. The sending unit was so rusted up, I inadvertently broke one of the metal lines that come out from the sending unit. I than purposely broke the other. Once the tank was out of the way, I was able to get two line wrenches on what was left of the fuel fittings and get them out. Once the tank was out, everything else went smooth as silk. The inside of the tank was in amazing condition. Oh, by the way, when I was taking the tank out I heard something metal rattling around in it. Any guess what it was? The fuel sending unit float arm was laying in the bottom of the tank. It appears the little plastic tab that go on each side of the float arm broke off .
I installed the new sending unit, went to tractor supply and bought two long bolts with washers, lock washers and nuts. I reinstalled the tank enough to hook up the electrical connections to test the sending unit and voila, my gas gauge read correctly. I did want to replace the fuel pump at the same time, however I am so broke right now even the sending unit was a hard pill to swallow so I couldn’t do that at this time. On the plus side, I have got brand new bolts and nuts in there with anti seize so if and when the pump fails, I shouldn’t have nearly as hard as a time that I did this time getting stuff loose.
So all in all I got it done. The rust made it much harder than it should have been but we all know how that goes. I would say I spent 6 hours on it. Probably half of that was fighting with the bolts and the other half was siphoning the gas out into little containers.I was also able to check my coolant temp switch the same way by grounding it to the frame. It also was not working. Now I replaced that and all the gauges are working.
Thanks a million Wrench Turner and College Man. You guys really help me get this problem solved. Also Eric, thanks for all the helpful videos you make. I learn a lot from watching your videos and appreciate you taking the time to make them.
I think it was the pulse board. I pulled it off, cleaned it, reflowed solder to all the connections and so far it’s been working. I think that was the problem. Thanks for the help.
I think it was the pulse board. I pulled it off, cleaned it, reflowed solder to all the connections and so far it’s been working. I think that was the problem. Thanks for the help.
I think it’s maybe that or the wiring. I had it apart twice now. Each time I take the steering column apart it magically starts working again until I have it back together and an driving it. The first time just pulling the column apart fixed it. The 2nd time I had the column apart and it still wasn’t working so I removed the under dash access panel and jiggled the wiring harness for it. Then it started working again. I tried jiggling the heck out of the harness to get it to stop working however I couldn’t get it to not work again. That is till I had it back together again and was driving it the next day.
When it acts up, the washer pump does not work and the delay option just makes the wipers go on low. The low and high speed options work fine. Also i have a hard time getting the wipers to turn off when it’s not working. When its working, everything works 100% I couldn’t find any obvious problems with the wiring. Wished I could find out which wires what so I could check them for power/ground ect but the only diagram I have found doesn’t detail it.
I think it’s maybe that or the wiring. I had it apart twice now. Each time I take the steering column apart it magically starts working again until I have it back together and an driving it. The first time just pulling the column apart fixed it. The 2nd time I had the column apart and it still wasn’t working so I removed the under dash access panel and jiggled the wiring harness for it. Then it started working again. I tried jiggling the heck out of the harness to get it to stop working however I couldn’t get it to not work again. That is till I had it back together again and was driving it the next day.
When it acts up, the washer pump does not work and the delay option just makes the wipers go on low. The low and high speed options work fine. Also i have a hard time getting the wipers to turn off when it’s not working. When its working, everything works 100% I couldn’t find any obvious problems with the wiring. Wished I could find out which wires what so I could check them for power/ground ect but the only diagram I have found doesn’t detail it.
Update… I got lucky twice. Turns out the Heater core is easy to replace. Basically you just have to remove a few bolts and the Heater core cover drops right down for easy access. So it’s easy to replace.
Next good thing is when I dropped the cover, the heater core looked brand new. It apparently was recently replaced right before I bought the truck. Turns out its not leaking. I think what happend was when I flushed the core antifreeze got into the Heater core box. Then when I turned the heat on and it blew the build up out. I cleaned the cover out and it hasn’t dropped yet.
Also I replaced the t stat and now the best blows really hot and also the temp gauge is working fine.
Thanks for all the help guys
Update… I got lucky twice. Turns out the Heater core is easy to replace. Basically you just have to remove a few bolts and the Heater core cover drops right down for easy access. So it’s easy to replace.
Next good thing is when I dropped the cover, the heater core looked brand new. It apparently was recently replaced right before I bought the truck. Turns out its not leaking. I think what happend was when I flushed the core antifreeze got into the Heater core box. Then when I turned the heat on and it blew the build up out. I cleaned the cover out and it hasn’t dropped yet.
Also I replaced the t stat and now the best blows really hot and also the temp gauge is working fine.
Thanks for all the help guys
I just flushed the heater core and now when I turn the heat on I see coolant leaking out the dash at the bottom. I also replaced the temperature sensor that’s mounted in between the spark plugs on the drivers side. I figured this was bad as when I grounded the wire to the sensor that the gauge for the temp went all the way up. Even with a new sensor it’s still not working. This is turning into a nightmare
I just flushed the heater core and now when I turn the heat on I see coolant leaking out the dash at the bottom. I also replaced the temperature sensor that’s mounted in between the spark plugs on the drivers side. I figured this was bad as when I grounded the wire to the sensor that the gauge for the temp went all the way up. Even with a new sensor it’s still not working. This is turning into a nightmare
just got home and I checked it. This time I could not barley squeeze the upper radiator hose. Yesterday I was able to pinch it closed with my fingers, today I can barely squeeze it. It is pretty warm but I wouldn’t call it hot. To be fair it felt the same as the lines going into the heater core to the touch. So I guess this means my water pump and thermostat are ok? Only thing left is to flush or replace the heater core? Is there some type of additive I have to add to the heater core to clean it? In Eric’s video it looks like he used so CLR remover but I want to be sure before I add it.
just got home and I checked it. This time I could not barley squeeze the upper radiator hose. Yesterday I was able to pinch it closed with my fingers, today I can barely squeeze it. It is pretty warm but I wouldn’t call it hot. To be fair it felt the same as the lines going into the heater core to the touch. So I guess this means my water pump and thermostat are ok? Only thing left is to flush or replace the heater core? Is there some type of additive I have to add to the heater core to clean it? In Eric’s video it looks like he used so CLR remover but I want to be sure before I add it.