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Chris Dennis

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Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 98 total)
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  • in reply to: Coolant temperature gauge pegged all the way up on #594977
    Chris DennisChris Dennis
    Participant

      so basically I should look for a cut or open wire somewhere between the gauge and the instrument cluster?

      in reply to: Coolant temperature gauge pegged all the way up on #603022
      Chris DennisChris Dennis
      Participant

        so basically I should look for a cut or open wire somewhere between the gauge and the instrument cluster?

        in reply to: 1994 Gmc K1500 removed dash, now there is high idl #594785
        Chris DennisChris Dennis
        Participant

          I am glad that it was nothing major, I was starting to fear I messed something up. Thanks for the help guys

          in reply to: 1994 Gmc K1500 removed dash, now there is high idl #602790
          Chris DennisChris Dennis
          Participant

            I am glad that it was nothing major, I was starting to fear I messed something up. Thanks for the help guys

            in reply to: 1994 Gmc K1500 removed dash, now there is high idl #594734
            Chris DennisChris Dennis
            Participant

              Eric no the HVAC controls were electronic no vacuum lines were unhooked. WhenI went to leave work I was cranking the engine and it barley cranked over but did start like the battery was drained. As I was driving the high idle issue came back again it was really Idling high. By the time I was halfway home the vehicle had no power I could floor it and it barely went, almost like it was flooding itself out. I pulled in the garage and plugged back in the speedometer gauge cluster and put a battery charger on it. After charging for several minutes I was able to start it up and the high Idle issue has gone away as well as the turn signal blinking fast issue so apparently it seems like that gauge cluster has to be in for the truck to run correctly. I even talking for a quick trip around the block and it was running fine

              in reply to: 1994 Gmc K1500 removed dash, now there is high idl #602729
              Chris DennisChris Dennis
              Participant

                Eric no the HVAC controls were electronic no vacuum lines were unhooked. WhenI went to leave work I was cranking the engine and it barley cranked over but did start like the battery was drained. As I was driving the high idle issue came back again it was really Idling high. By the time I was halfway home the vehicle had no power I could floor it and it barely went, almost like it was flooding itself out. I pulled in the garage and plugged back in the speedometer gauge cluster and put a battery charger on it. After charging for several minutes I was able to start it up and the high Idle issue has gone away as well as the turn signal blinking fast issue so apparently it seems like that gauge cluster has to be in for the truck to run correctly. I even talking for a quick trip around the block and it was running fine

                in reply to: 1994 Gmc K1500 removed dash, now there is high idl #594652
                Chris DennisChris Dennis
                Participant

                  Thanks JTF. I was wondering, since I disconnected the battery, is there some type of idle relearn procedure that I have to do? Like let it sit running for so long. I know my beretta was that way

                  in reply to: 1994 Gmc K1500 removed dash, now there is high idl #602638
                  Chris DennisChris Dennis
                  Participant

                    Thanks JTF. I was wondering, since I disconnected the battery, is there some type of idle relearn procedure that I have to do? Like let it sit running for so long. I know my beretta was that way

                    in reply to: How to not get screwed on repairs #517446
                    Chris DennisChris Dennis
                    Participant

                      If you take your car into have it repaired, have them work an estimate up of what it will cost. Call around to other shops and have them give you an estimate for the same work. See if one is significantly higher than the other. You can also research online to see what work all is involved in doing the needed repair. Try and find a repair shop nearby that has good customer ratings. From my experience, the bad shops get outed pretty quickly. You may have to look online to find positive ratings as people are less likely to post positive reviews then they are negative. Try angieslist.com and the better business bureau website for starters. Try and learn the basic part names of a vehicle. If you walk in a shop and can correctly name or describe certain parts of a car when telling them what the problem with the car is they probably will be less likely to try and rip you off unlike if you go in there and say that thingy right there next to the round thing.

                      in reply to: How to not get screwed on repairs #515233
                      Chris DennisChris Dennis
                      Participant

                        If you take your car into have it repaired, have them work an estimate up of what it will cost. Call around to other shops and have them give you an estimate for the same work. See if one is significantly higher than the other. You can also research online to see what work all is involved in doing the needed repair. Try and find a repair shop nearby that has good customer ratings. From my experience, the bad shops get outed pretty quickly. You may have to look online to find positive ratings as people are less likely to post positive reviews then they are negative. Try angieslist.com and the better business bureau website for starters. Try and learn the basic part names of a vehicle. If you walk in a shop and can correctly name or describe certain parts of a car when telling them what the problem with the car is they probably will be less likely to try and rip you off unlike if you go in there and say that thingy right there next to the round thing.

                        in reply to: 94 GMC Suburban Cranks without starting #514827
                        Chris DennisChris Dennis
                        Participant

                          I think I got the problem figured out. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and that still didn’t fix it, but I had the engine running and I accidentally bumped the wire that goes to the coolant temperature sensor and I noticed the engine idle changed when I did it. Further wiggling and I could get the engine idle to change as I moved the wires. I also noticed that the oil pressure gauge would fluctuate when I jiggled the wires to it. So, I replaced both the oil pressure sensor and coolant temperature sensor pigtails and so far so good. Also I am now able to unplug the fuel pump relay with the truck running and the oil pressure sensor keeps it running. Last time I thought I had this fixed when replacing the oil pressure sensor, it would still die when I unplugged the fuel relay. So it seems like the problem was a combination of bad connections at the coolant temp sensor and the oil pressure switch. Thanks again to everyone who tried to help.

                          in reply to: 94 GMC Suburban Cranks without starting #517092
                          Chris DennisChris Dennis
                          Participant

                            I think I got the problem figured out. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and that still didn’t fix it, but I had the engine running and I accidentally bumped the wire that goes to the coolant temperature sensor and I noticed the engine idle changed when I did it. Further wiggling and I could get the engine idle to change as I moved the wires. I also noticed that the oil pressure gauge would fluctuate when I jiggled the wires to it. So, I replaced both the oil pressure sensor and coolant temperature sensor pigtails and so far so good. Also I am now able to unplug the fuel pump relay with the truck running and the oil pressure sensor keeps it running. Last time I thought I had this fixed when replacing the oil pressure sensor, it would still die when I unplugged the fuel relay. So it seems like the problem was a combination of bad connections at the coolant temp sensor and the oil pressure switch. Thanks again to everyone who tried to help.

                            in reply to: GMC Suburban 5.7 No Start Flooding Itself Out #514824
                            Chris DennisChris Dennis
                            Participant

                              Once again thanks college guy. I think I got the problem figured out. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and that still didn’t fix it, but I had the engine running and I accidentally bumped the wire that goes to the coolant temperature sensor and I noticed the engine idle changed when I did it. Further wiggling and I could get the engine idle to change as I moved the wires. I also noticed that the oil pressure gauge would fluctuate when I jiggled the wires to it. So, I replaced both the oil pressure sensor and coolant temperature sensor pigtails and so far so good. Also I am now able to unplug the fuel pump relay with the truck running and the oil pressure sensor keeps it running. Last time I thought I had this fixed when replacing the oil pressure sensor, it would still die when I unplugged the fuel relay. So it seems like the problem was a combination of bad connections at the coolant temp sensor and the oil pressure switch. Thanks again.

                              in reply to: GMC Suburban 5.7 No Start Flooding Itself Out #517090
                              Chris DennisChris Dennis
                              Participant

                                Once again thanks college guy. I think I got the problem figured out. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and that still didn’t fix it, but I had the engine running and I accidentally bumped the wire that goes to the coolant temperature sensor and I noticed the engine idle changed when I did it. Further wiggling and I could get the engine idle to change as I moved the wires. I also noticed that the oil pressure gauge would fluctuate when I jiggled the wires to it. So, I replaced both the oil pressure sensor and coolant temperature sensor pigtails and so far so good. Also I am now able to unplug the fuel pump relay with the truck running and the oil pressure sensor keeps it running. Last time I thought I had this fixed when replacing the oil pressure sensor, it would still die when I unplugged the fuel relay. So it seems like the problem was a combination of bad connections at the coolant temp sensor and the oil pressure switch. Thanks again.

                                in reply to: GMC Suburban 5.7 No Start Flooding Itself Out #514149
                                Chris DennisChris Dennis
                                Participant

                                  I just started the truck up by starting it with the pedal to the floor. Once it started up, I reved it a little and slowly let of the accelerator. It ran on its own but rough for awhile. The longer it ran the better it seemed to run. I shut it off and tried to restart it. It wouldn’t start without me holding the gas pedal to the floor. I restarted it holding the gas pedal to the floor and once it would idle I got out and checked the injectors to see if one looked like it was spraying more than the other. They look the same to me. Than I started spraying starter fluid around the upper intake looking for leaks but it apparently found none. I shut it down and the third and fourth times I was able to start it without holding the pedal to the floor.

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