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I’ve been using MaxLife in my ’98 CRV and ’05 Pilot for over six years without a single issue. It’s ML all day for me.
Valvoline MaxLife ATF has a large loyal following among Honda owners. I’ve been using it in my ’05 Pilot and ’98 CRV for quite a few years now without a single issue. IMO, it’s better than Honda’s fluid(it’s a synthetic) and it’s a fraction of the price. WalMart used yo sell it in the stores but you can only buy it on their online site now. It’s around $17.50/gal and you get free shipping if you order two containers. I’m not sure if they ship it direct to your house because the two times I’ve ordered it I went into the store to their Pick Up desk and got it.
I had a POS Chinese Gates WP crap out on me around the 30.000 mile mark on my ’05 Honda Pilot. There’s a long thread about Gates WP’s on the Piloteers forum. I caught mine before it could do any damage and I replaced it with an Aisin unit…problem solved.
I would stay far away from Gates WP’s.
[quote=”kevinscottadkins” post=183656]Thanks so much! My rear gasket really has the smallest of leaks(just a little out of one corner vers all across the front of the front one)…front one is way worse. I’m thinking I will just replace the front one before my trip and when I have the van parked, for the late spring/summer, I will put the back one on. I will have it all apart doing the timing belt replacement then as well. Back one sounds like it will be all kinds of fun :)[/quote]
Yeah, you’re gonna have all kinds of “fun” with the rear one. You’ll be thinking what kind of jacka$$ puts a wiring harness with little play in it across that stinkin’ cover…just a horrible design. As you can tell the front cover is a piece of cake whereas the rear one will have you questioning your sanity 🙂[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=183652]When you did this did you have to remove the intake manifold?
Yeah, you need to remove the intake manifold to gain access to the rear cover. The front cover is a piece of cake and the rear cover is a living hell. I was so relieved when I was somehow able to reinstall the rear cover without dislodging or mangling the new gasket.
I forgot to say that you’ll need to inspect the door jam sticker to see when you’re Sienna was built as there’s two different valve cover gasket sets for the 2000 Sienna. I didn’t want you tearing into the job and then discovering the gaskets don’t fit.
I replaced the front and rear valve cover gaskets on my daughter’s ’00 Sienna last Spring and be forewarned that dealing with the rear valve cover can be a stone-cold PITA.
To make it easier on yourself make sure to remove the windshield cowl beforehand to give yourself some much-needed additional space to work with. The real problem lies with a demented Toyota engineer who thought it would be funny to drape a wiring harness across the rear valve cover which barely has any play in it to remove and install the cover. I pulled like crazy on it and pulled it aside as much as possible with a strong bungie cord and it was still all I could do to remove it and reinstall it. Let’s just say I was at the end of my rope and cussing ruled the day 🙂
It took awhile but I f-i-n-a-l-l-y got it done. There’s also an O2(?) sensor along the firewall which some people on the Sienna boards recommend should be swapped out at the same time but money was a little tight so I left it alone.
There’s some good info on the dedicated Sienna boards and I recommend them highly.
Sorry about digging up a 6 month old thread.
I worked at a check cashing store for ten years and I had a coworker who did this type of scam unbekownst to any of us….a customer would come in to pay a utility bill and she would appropriately do the transaction. After they left she would go back into the system to void the transaction and pocketed the cash.
We found out afterwards (after she was fired over it) that she had a drug problem.
Keep receipts for awhile to cover your butt in situations like these.
Due to the propensity of the valves to tighten on the B20 engines in the first Gen CRV’s many of the owners on the hondasuv site adjust them to the loose side of spec with the Go/No-Go method. You sound like you’re much better going by feel than I am so I fully embraced the Go/No-Go method when I was introduced to it around ten years ago 🙂
I agree with stiv625. That’s the best he can do? Says who? He sounds like he’s on some kind of power trip or he was simply in a bad mood before you walked through the door. I’m sure NGK would like to hear about this. Don’t take this sitting down. It was handled horribly and it needs to be corrected. Please keep us posted.
Yeah, you really should be using Honda’s blue coolant as Prestone’s green stuff most-definitely isn’t the same. Prestone is known to prematurely wear out the water pump seals due it containing silicates. Honda’s stuff is silicate-free and simply easier on the system and your wallet. Two weeks ago I picked up two jugs of Honda’s coolant for a little over $13/gal from Majestic Honda’s website so the price difference is minimal when compared to aftermarket coolants which are a compromise in your Honda anyway.
I would like to add that I think it’s a good idea to go with Honda’s blue coolant in their older models as well since it’s easier on the WP. It also seems to be easier on the hoses as well as the factory hoses on my ’98 V were ten years old when I finally decided to swap them out. I only replaced them since I didn’t want to take any chances with 10+ year old hoses although they appeared to be perfectly fine. I was amazed how pliable they still were when I pried them off. I recently picked up two jugs of Honda’s coolant online at Majestic Honda for a little over $13/gal which isn’t that much more than the traditional green stuff.
BTW, how’s your ’89 Accord running? I ask because I hated to sell my ’88 Accord(it was 15 years old at the time with 235,000 miles on the clock) because the engine still purred like a kitten when I sold it for a song to my wife’s coworker since she was in dire need of a vehicle. It just had other issues(leaking heater core, driver’s power window binding,etc) which I didn’t feel like dealing with at the time. It still had the original lower ball joints and outer tie rods but I had replaced the upper arm ball joint assemblies in the front and rear and the suspension was free of clunks when I sold it.
I understand what you’re saying but I’ve been using SS nuts and bolts for four years on my ’98 CRV’s exhaust without issue. The hassle of dealing with rusted over fasteners is something I sorely don’t miss.
I have to pick up some SS bolts at my local hardware store today since I’m swapping out the V’s 9 1/2 year old radiator this weekend. I started using SS hardware on my ’05’ Pilot’s radiator two years ago after having a devil of a time removing rusted fasteners on the factory rad.
I’ve found it’s a good idea to replace the radiator bolts with stainless steel. I had a devil of a time extracting the rad bolts on my ’05 Pilot when I first bought it 2 1/2 years ago since all but one of them had firmly rusted in place and the flimsy plastic nut holders were of no help. The OEM rad was a Denso unit but the new Denso unit I bought came with an improved fastening set-up which did away with those worthless plastic nut holders. I went to our local hardware store and picked up the appropriate size bolts since I didn’t want to deal with the possibility of seized bolts the next time.
I’m gonna do the same thing on my ’98 CRV (which has the same Denso-style plastic nut housings) when I swap out the rad in a week or two. The new Denso unit has the same improved fastener set-up(as the Pilot’s) so I’ll be making another trip to the hardware store for SS bolts.